You could permanently solder some thin wires to the attiny. Small interface board with pads or a tiny connector glued to the PCB so that it is accessible.
It’s so sad to learn that it’s difficult to flash the IF25A. I brought mine direct from sofirn, but it came with older firmware. I don’t like how the low mode comes on. I wish it had the same version of Anduril that the SP36 came with. Their website saids it did, but that’s not true.
Great that it worked out. Personnaly I solder a solid wire to the base of the spring and pull on it, the IF25’s driver (same construction) came off easily this way.
Now I wonder if I could flash Anduril on it (the stock firmware is proprietary with tint ramping), but I’m stil a bit clueless about firmware flashing.
Ah yes indeed, different MCU, I guess I’ll wait for the mini LT1 project.
This is a pretty cool setup! Thanks for sharing!! Would be nice to see pics to help visualize, but the description is pretty good.
There were missing 5K1 resistors?
The charging problem of missing resistors sounds like the same issue the LT1 had? I didn't follow that issue closely but they fixed it in newer shipped batches, I understand.
I received my IF25A couple days ago and noticed some messy contaminants on the MCPCB and brass contact button. Cleaned it up well with isop. alcohol and added a 20 AWG bypass that gives it a nice bump with a 40T.
I'll be upgrading Anduril as well but don't think I could take on your flashing mod because of parts, etc.
Nice! Look'n at it now. Any functional changes from TK's Anduril 2? What TK version is it based on?
Not sure if she's got a settled down version yet, but do you plan on keeping them in sync?
OK, but by strobe you mean beacon? Can both SOS and beacon can be disabled with compile switches?
As long as I can get batt check and temp check directly back to back, and I don't mind losing beacon and SOS.
can be this flashlight reprogrammed to classical modes configuration?i dont like ramping.thanks:)
Thanks! I use git every day. but locally - github is a good solution.
@flashburn could you explain one more time how you got the driver out. In case you have pictures, that would be awesome. I would love to flash a more recent version on this flashlight.
Thank you. It was very nice of you to say that. Also, could you explain the adding the USB-C resistor process?
Thank you. Since you have updated your flashlight, do you know of any known bugs in the default firmware? I know there are additional features in the newer Anduril, but are you aware of any bugs in the stock firmware?
Thanks
So do you reccomend a sofirn IF25A? My aliexpress cart is already 110Euros say no please
Also I see that you also live in italy, do you have any problems receiving flashlights with included batteries?
Nice to hear you were successful! I’d like to give this a try if I can feel confident about the process.
Which hex file did you use to flash anduril 2, there isnt a dedicated one in the repository?
I got arrested for flashing once
I want to reflash this light, do you have any tips for going about it? Which pins go where on the driver? A picture would be super helpful. Thanks
Hi Allan.
I do not know the IF25, just the IF25A.
Flashing the IF25A worked with the SP36 hex of Anduril2 from here:
http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril2/
The first builds of Anduril2 were not so good, so I reflashed Anduril1 until recently.
“anduril.2021-10-25.sofirn-sp36.hex” is actually quite nice.
The switch light is still configurable, even a bit easier to do so.
The flashing procedure is the usual ATtiny85 procedure decribed many times in the forum.
To reach the pins, you need to unscrew the bezel, then carefully take out the TIR without breaking the standoffs by pulling it straight out. Be careful not to touch the TIR with fingers or anything dirty.
Then unscrew the battery tube and the ring from the switch. Take out the silicone switch cover.
Then desolder the wires to the LED-MCPCB. Be careful, they are silicone and quite easily to destroy the insulation.
Loosen the switch PCB and take out the controller PCB stack by gripping the brass knob from the battery side.
Both PCB are glued into place, so a bit of force is needed to get them moving.
The switch PCB has to be noodled through the head opening.
To access the ATtiny85, the top PCB has to be carefully desoldered and removed. Take note of the orientation of the top PCB, as a mistake here will lead to an explosion later.
After flashing put everything together in reverse order.
Be careful to align the top PCB traces to the traces of the standoff bridge.
To pull the LED wires through the MCPCB, it makes sense to temporarily solder a longer wire to the pack of three and use this to pull the three wires though. Be careful to solder each wire to it’s correct pad. Risk of catastrophic failure here.
There is a notch in the PCB and a peg inside the head to find the correct orientation for the USB socket.
There is no need to glue the PCB in place, as they will be held by screw-on parts anyway.
It is definitely not the easy flash, because of the many dis/assembly steps and the good tools needed, like desoldering pump and a really good soldering iron. Separating the PCB without burning them, soldering on the LED-MCPCB, all need to be well trained skills to make this work.
Good luck! 
PS: Aah, forgot, after resoldering the LED wires, clean the LEDs from fume deposits with a jet of pure Isopropyl Alcohol or IPA-Pentane.Cleaning makes the light run less hot and gives visibly more output.