So i dont really understand this… or what i mean is, what does A~~C mean, versus C~~>C ? I have the hk04 (sst40 version, bought 2 months ago), and i plug in my usb-c cable to it which is plugged into a QC3.0 block wall charger and it charges. I never pay enough attention to notice if it charges “quickly” or not, but it charges all the same. i have seen it before on blf before where people mention that something is not “true usb-c” and that it is usb-a to c. What does this mean?
EDIT: Thank You TomE for doing the tests and giving these results!
I think i just realized the answer to my question… and my confusion came from lack of intelligence and meager understanding of basic electrical technology … correct me if im wrong, but a true usb-c would have the usb-c connection on the wall block as well? what made me realize this was re-reading TomE’s OP-
…“For the C<C, I used a USB-C wall adapter. For the C<>A, I used a USB type A wall adapter. ”
and remembering ive seen wall blocks (very sledomly) with the usb-c plug in on them.
this is what usb a-c looks like, it means one end has a usb-a header, the other end has usb-c header, true usb-c would have usb-c on both ends of the cable. and i think only for true usb-c cables, it is possible to have technology like PD (power delivery) to charge things superfast. i found this link just off of a quick google search, havent read through it yet, theres probably other sites that explain it better, but thats the general gist
You can’t charge the cell faster or at protocols that the chargers in the flashlights aren’t made to work with just because they can take a USB-C to USB-C cable.
There is no PD on that charging chip, it is a max 2A current switching charger, so better than your typical linear charging chip. And also better as the charger is in contact with the host directly not sitting in the air without a direct contact with the host like many chargers in flashlights.
Linear charging means that the charging chip takes in the 5V input voltage and puts out 4.2V by burning the excess, these chips usually get pretty hot, like the TP4054. Switching charging turns the higher voltage into current, like a buck converter, these are much more efficient.
These two has nothing to do with what type of connector or cable the flashlight is compatible with.
When a flashlights takes C-C charging with a power delivery adapter it’s because there is some form of communication between the two and it request 5V (even a resistor works), because by default a power delivery charger doesn’t output any voltage or current.
When flashlights only takes A-C charging it’s basically a type C port in place of a micro USB, No changes internally.
We are in the middle of a transition era where some folks are already ditching everything USB A to use type C exclusively, but at the same time most people haven’t even heard about power delivery. I’m all in for power delivery for charging high energy devices, but USB A should never cease to exist. It’s robust, truly universal, easy to repair and will stay relevant for many years to come.
ok, i guess my question was meant in a more general sense in that, if a flashlight with built-in charging DOES accept C-C, how do you tell if it takes PD short of asking on forums and hoping a knowledgeable person such as yourself answers?
So are you saying your HK04 charging works on a C-C cable? Hhmm, because mine did not, least from what I could tell.
This QC 3.0 wall charger is actually a USB-A connector, not a USB-C, so if yours is like this, then yes - I got the same results as you with a USB-A wall charger (it worked), but my HK04 doesn't work on my USB-C wall charger like this one.
I think Hikelite spelled it out clearly in the above posts.
You need a true PD charger to test it out, in the case of the K1 it will take in PD in a way that if you connect it to a 20V 5A 100W PD laptop charger it will request just 5V 3A, so technically it is accepting PD but at regular charging rate.
You don’t need a PD chip in order to draw current from a PD charger, you can get 5V with just a 56k ohm pull up resistor in the cable or receiving connector. I believe the newer LT1 batches have this.
And to add to the confusion, there are C to C cables with bad chips that could trigger 5V or other voltage without anything connected to it, and there are USB-C chargers that are not PD, some are just 5V 3A or Quick charge. This is when the manufacturers use a existing design and just swaps the USB-A to a USB-C, this is very common on powerbanks. So not all cases involving C-C cable means PD and true PD will not charge dumb devices without a pull up resistor or a PD charging chip.
Get a high quality charger + cable combo to avoid damaging any of your usb-C devices.
thank you! thats actually exactly what i wanted to know, cuz i have quite a few PD charging cables around the house, and i just wanted to know if it takes PD charging, and if not, will using it be harmful to the battery/flashlight in some way, so that answers my question. i also have proprietary charging cables for oneplus dash charge and huawei’s supercharge, im assuming i should also be able to use those to charge it, but just a regular rate as well?
and for the second part, just to clarify, theres just regular c-c charging, and PD c-c charging right? cuz im using anker’s PD charging accessories, im sure they are true PD, but just for my curiosity, is there c-c thats not true PD, but can charge at PD rate?
I believe one of those chargers you mentioned uses 4.5V at very high currents through a USB-A connector, this is not standard 5V that the charging chip inside the K1 was designed to take. It will most likely work but I’d rather stick with a regular 5V usb charger and charge the K1 with a regular A-C cable.
Thanks for the pics on spring bypasses with accompanying results Tom. I got the 90 version for big bro backup to my W1 and will now have to do the bypasses! This means I will have to dig out some equipment as I literally boxed up everything and stored it some time ago now. Maybe I’ll be able to put everything away again afterwards… lol
I, uh, seem to have a weakness for Anduril based lights. Thanks TK! (I think!) hahaha
Hank now has the W2.1, dropped the W1. I emailed Hank though and he is selling me a mounted W2.1 even though it's not listed. He is also selling me a couple of the K1 drivers - it's a good design, something I can tweak the regulated amp level on by swapping one resistor.
