Rat Shack in Portsmouth had the last 2 of them on the shelf pretty dusty. I charged them up and they work fine in the laser xenon Glock light. They give off 3.2 volts when fully charged so they don't fry anything, regular lions give 4.2 volts.
Hey E1320,
PM me your address....I've a half-dozen or so 3V rechargeable batteries that I'm no longer using. Some are fine, some may not hold a charge....but you can have 'em, if you would like. Free to a good home, or even yours. 
Thanks man i appreciate the offer but this post was resurected from May so I am all set now, but thanks again.
No prob. Let me know if you change your mind.
Sorry about hijacking your thread, but has anyone tried these 3V rechargeables in Solarforce Skyline I?
Common sense says 2 x ~3.2V should be inside "tolerances" for 6.0V maximum. OTOH Solarforce sales support said that anything over 6.0V will fry the led.
I started using the Tenergy 900mAh 3.0 "RCR"123s over a year ago. They are great batteries. However, they are standard 3.7 volt lithium ion cells but the PCB knocks the output down to 3.0 volts within 12ms of being loaded. they worked flawlessly in my Streamlight PT2L. Several people at my place of business were so impressed with the battery/charger/light combination that five people have the same Streamlight and Tenergy RCR123 combination.
I actually gave my Streamlight and the Tenergy batteries/charger to a friend since he liked the light as my Spark SL6 is my EDC now. He is very pleased with the combination also and carries the light with him every day. I recommend these chargers and cells to everyone.
Sounds good. Thanks for the advice!
However, I couldn't find any seller shipping them to Finland, or the shipping cost was absurd. (100-200% more, because of shipping. Wow!?!?)
Do you have any idea how to get those? Or would some friendly member in US buy those for me and ship with normal air mail? Or does anyone know any similar items, which could be bought from China or something?
I use them as well but mine are blue, had them for years now and never gave me any problems. Use the charger it comes with only. Once charge the voltage will hang around 3.2 volts so i would let it rest before you pop it in there.
I see this Thread came back to life. I bought the 17335 3.0 V to use in My SF SKYLINE 1. It has a IC in the Driver with a 6 V Max. 8 V will Fry it. Is this 6.0V or maybe 6.4-6V. The 17335 3.0V will charge up to 3.2-4V , x 2 = 6.4-6.8v. I used the 2 batt. in a 2nd Light to drop the OV to 6.0V. SKY1 Tailcap Current was1.40A .With a 18650it is .90A. There has to be some Voltage Drop under Load with this small Battery so 3.2-4 OV may be 3.0V LV with a 1+Amp load.
My $.02 on this situations is, i bought a 12pack of Streamlight CR123a about a month ago. Every single cell is putting out 3.22v, so i would assume that all the rechargeable 123s sitting at 3.2 is well within the tolerance of any device intended to be run off of 123s. Otherwise, i got a full bad batch of batteries :)
So these rechargables can bi charged with ordinary Li-ion charger, up to 4,2V?
Holy thread revival
Nope you need a special charger or a charger with a low voltage cutoff selector switch that maxes out around 3.5 volts. I have a radio shack charger just for the RCR123s
I ended up just buying a dozen regular CR123s since this is an under the pillow piece and doesn’t get much use.
May as well help keep this tread going too. I have 4 of the tenergy RCRs also and they have been very reliable. I consistanly get 800ma for and hour before the protection cuts it off.
You are joking, right?
And im not talking about ordinary RER123s I was talking about those with 3,0 nominal voltage, just needed confirmation.
Be careful with those jokes including false informations because someone not very good in english can miscomprehend them and act upon false info.
Ecig, I guess he meant 3.5 volts, not 3.5 amps. Then his post fully makes sense, as 3.5V is 90% SOC for LiFePO4’s.
Actually a variety of “123” batteries and multiple designations for the exact same battery depending on the manufacture.
Some common ones
CR123 / CR123A 3.0v (primaries) considered non -rechargeable.
They very much can be recharged, but it is not the best idea you’ll ever have.
If you insist on doing so , use charger set a 3.0v… Or better yet, DON’T !!!
ICR123 3.0v ( rechargeable ) Use charger w 3.0v setting
should terminate between 3.2 & 3.6volts…
RCR123 3.7v rechargeable & likely has protection circuit.
Use charger setting 4.2v
16340 3.7 v In both protected & non-protected.
Use 4.2v charger setting.
Batteries and chargers are given voltage ratings for a reason.
And it is the individuals responsibility to use the correct charger / battery combination.
Just because someone read it here , or there. Does not remove that responsibility.
Thanx
AW’s are the only cells i use for firearm optics. I have the Lifepo4 16340 blue label in my surefire light similar to yours. I can go a year plus easy and not have to be concerned about the cell losing power. Not sure if they still make them otherwise protected 16340 are worth the $6 or $7 bucks,
It was not a joke I accidentally put amps instead of volts I would never post false information like that, sorry if I offended you.
Well, it’s a perennial question with primary cells.
So, again … any current recommendation for ten or a dozen CR123 lithiums, with the longest shelf life I can find?
Just checked the earthquake cache and despite having been slowly using up my latest dozen Panasonics (bought maybe 5 years or so ago), the last six are almost dead.
(They don’t have a good-by year timestamp and were probably the cheap ones from one of the online battery places, along with Tenergys that were dead even faster)
So next time I’d hope for longer storage. Any current recommendations most welcome.
(The CR123s and AAs are for the “hand out to who needs one” bin. When the lights go out and stay out a few hours at night, I give away these flashlights as needed, and talk earthquake prep …)