Hi mate - gee that 980L really is smaller than the XinTD! Thanks for that info mate - I don’t own a 980L and was going by what someone else reported.
Nice collection you have there too!
Cheers
d337944
Yes, the 980L was smaller than I expected, and the XinTD larger !
I’ll bet the HD2010 is smaller than it appears online too….
Has anyone had a chance to compare V2 to V3 yet? I have the second version, and if I had any complaint it was the reflector — rings in the beam — although I stippled the surface with hairspray to make a DIY orange peel, and it’s pretty nice now.
I received an emailed notification that someone had responded to this… yet nobody has. Very perplexing.
I’ll ask again, however: anybody here have experience of both versions?
Oh, and would it be possible to put the new reflector in the older version? (Doesn’t look it — seems you’d have to replace the whole assembly.)
_
Just like d337944 I got myself one of those “scratched” V3’s. It’s a darn good flashlight, for the money I paid. It’s well made, bright as anything and can be ordered without those annoying blinky modes. I got the 3 mode version (low-med-hi). The beam pattern is not bad at all and it throws pretty good too. I’ve owned a couple of C8’s in the past (which I’ve since given away) but this one’s the best.
With such fancy internals, they could have done some better design.
For example something like this 大龙网_跨境电商B2B商机平台_移动端跨境贸易新体验
If it wasnt to expensive for me for such light, I would take it. Reflector is very important 
So, just for the hell of it, I unscrewed the reflector completely from my V2. Makes for a really nice mule: perfect circular wall of light.
I find that even the neutral XML has a bit of a green corona thing going on, which disappears when you take out the reflector. I suppose the only downside, mulewise, is that the emitter’s a bit far back from the opening. Also, you need some sort of spacer to keep the lens tight against the front o-ring — I figure I’ll just find a rubber washer the right size, if I decide to keep it like this.
I have two questions for those who owns XinTD C8 V3, the driver in the picture below directly touches to the battery? Is there a seperate battery compartment? (Inside the battery tube)
And is this light suitable for Mountain biking ? (Lots of shocks, tremors and shakes etc.
Thanks in advance!
A small foam disc might be a good idea, preventing the battery smacking into the 7135 chips of the underside of the driver on rough landings.
Also something like this :
i’m thinking to buy this light with cool white led, but i already have a ultrafire C8 with xml-t6, but i measured the tailcap yesterday and my multimeter says 1.12, so i think that it means that my xml-t6 is only driven at 1.12A? correct? so would it be a big difference if i buy the XinTd?
greetz thomas
Do you trust your DMM to read high currents? Many people with cheaper DMMs and especially cheaper leads (more important) suspected their light to be "under-driven" when they found out later that the leads for measuring had such a high resistance, that they would take away several 100 mA's. Do you have access to a second DMM/leads to crosscheck that measurement?
If your batteries are good, I think you will see a big difference
http://flashlightwiki.com/Cree#XM-L
Yeah i can fix a multimeter somewhere, i’ll check it later today.
And my battery is a 3000mah ultrafire. i know it’s not very good, but she’s in good condition i think
Is the clicky of V3 very hard to press normally? I found that mine required a lot of pressure to press it. I had to use my index finger to get a better angle to press it instead of using my thumb.
My V3 has a much firmer switch than eg. my KD C8. I changed the rubber boot to a different one (14mm fits ok, the original is 16mm). The one I have has bit more height and it is much easier to push the switch now. Tighter spill than my KD C8 due to the deeper reflector as well.
I have no V2 to compare with, only the KD C8.
There is no separate battery compartment; the driver is directly exposed to the battery.
As for mountain biking, I would say it’s probably not suitable, mostly because it’s too throwy. Wouldn’t that sort of thing be better with a flooder? I’d go for something more along the lines of a Convoy S3 with XP-G2 emitter at 1400mA or 1050mA. That still has a good spring at both ends of the battery, but emits a much wider beam with longer runtime. Or even an Ultrafire HD2011 (very floody), though the low PWM there might get annoying.
When mine arrived, I complained about the switch, being a contractor and American I was used to tool flaws being fixed for free, and with an apology when they are new and under warranty, but I was told by intl-outdoor to use my index finger and evidently to live with the problem.
Post 38 repaired his purchase from the Chinese company intl-outdoor, but I’m not used to having to repair brand new devices and tools myself, dealing with Chinese retailers is an experience new to me, and not a pleasant one.
Yeah it’s kind of recessed and it takes a bit of force to turn on but it feels fine to me. Reverse cl-icky and it’s a fairly sold switch. At least it tail stands pretty well considering the contour on the tail cap.
Overall it seems to be a good light, I like mine and it throws well with a nice spill and output (U2, 2800ma version, it puts out about that). The ano isn’t perfect but I’ve wrapped it in bike tubes and now it’s my general use light when I need something to work with. I did smash it into concrete from about four or so feet right off the bat and other than a few ano scrapes it seems fine, I wouldn’t recommend repeating this.
I wouldn’t use it for mnt biking since it’s a bit throwy stock and the size just doesn’t lead it’s self well to head mounting. It could be diffused but I’d rather get a smaller/cheaper light for something like that.
When your off road you’ll have to have a good mount to keep it from bouncing and I’d be concerned about beating the cells and changing modes; a light with an external pack would in general be better for mounted use since it wouldn’t do this since most of the weight of the battery can be moved elsewhere and the housing made smaller.
ar lens… 7135 driver…. deeper reflector… looking good!
might have to put it on the want list!
supfire x5 vs c8 v3?