OK, an update. I've been busy with these-got on a roll and built a total of 6 of these for my L2P hosts. Two are cool whites, one is a 4000K neutral, one is a 3000K warm, one 5000K neutral and a cool white Endor (rebel) star.
Two of the lights I upgraded to 3.1A by cannibalizing an extra driver for the 7135's and piggybacking one chip to another on the back (spring) side of the driver. Don't try this at home unless you're really good at microsurgery!!
The stock SB driver with a triple draws ~2500-2800Ma. With the piggybacked chip, both of those draw 3150Ma. I don't remember exact measurements, but this is the average.
For cosmetic purposes I squeezed a cut-to-size-and-reglued glow ring around the optic and I ended up pulling out the original SF rubber that the lens fits into, gluing the glow ring to the inner circumference of the rubber, and putting it back in. This is so the glow ring won't fall down under the optic. I used krazy glue gel and waited 'till it thoroughly dried before reassembly. Krazy glue will destroy emitter domes and plastic! When I ran out of glow rings, I did a couple with a swiped rubber grip ring spacer from a Surefire.
A tip: We are dog lovers and dog hair gets into everything. (along with metal filings, dust, whatever...) I imagine in factories they must have clean rooms to assemble bezels... what a bitch to keep stuff out! So my wife gave me one of those real soft blush makeup brushes to dust off just before I put the original lens and bezel ring on. Works a treat! Picture a documentary with an archeologist working with one of those brushes they use to work around ruins... that's about it. BTW, I use Invisible Glass from the supermarket to clean glass lenses. That stuff is great.
I don't have calipers and I'm lousy at accurate measurements. Suffice to say that these dropins, as made, fit nicely into the L2P. The critical part is how far you file down the brass ring for the driver. I take it down until I start to see a seam around the area that would normally hold the emitter, then I knock that out, sand the ring level, just enough to make sure it is flat for the copper.
So on a couple I didn't file it down far enough before I soldered and I had to use an O-ring between the bezel and host, on one I went too far and had to use part of a P60 outer spring, and on the others they fit just right with nothing else necessary.
The one bad thing is that I'm depending on the glass lens to hold the dropin down... I should have come up with some lind of spacer so the bezel holds it in, but so far, so good.
My apologies for not relying sooner... the email notification for this thread somehow got disabled.
Rich