Noobie Needs Help!

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petefixer
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Noobie Needs Help!

Hello all,

Ok, I bought this light and would really like it to have a red LED. I hunt at coyotes at night and need a bright red light. Is it possible to modify this light to be red and still as bright? And what batteries does it accept other than 123's? Sorry for all the questions but I am clueless on this stuff.

Thanks again.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rt=nc&nma=true&item=270683766704&si=Ss%252FurHK84cZUsPMc6keHkvVmVdc%253D&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

Match
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Seeing as you're from Wisconsin, I'll type real slooow.... Tongue out (I'm a Minnesota boy, I had to....especially after that Trojan horse you gave us called Farve..)

To answer your question, what you bought is called  a P60 host, and thankfully it's the most lego-able light out there. You have a couple of different options:

1.) Use a red filtered lens like this one.

2.) Replace the drop-in (the bulb and reflector inside...very easy to do) with a red one like this. 

I don't have any experience with either, so I can't give you a firsthand report.  Some of the other folks on here will most likely have different ideas.  As a side note, as long as the beam is tightly centered I've never had a problem with plain old white light spooking the dogs...  

Oh, and btw, Welcome to BLFLaughing

*Edit:  Another question - at about what distance are you normally shooting at?  Reason I ask is because the light you bought as an orange peel reflector and you'll find that using a smooth reflector will give you more throw. Lot's of options...one reason these stinking lights are so addicting:  Lego's for grown-ups!

Match
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Forgot to add about battery options.  The most economical solution is using a rechargable 18650 Li-ion. It will also give you longer runtime.  

petefixer
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The drop in bulb you listed says it has five modes, my flash light currently has one mode and I bought it for that reason. If I buy that drop in red bulb would it the be a 5 mode? And thank you for the welcome, although being a Favre fan you are probably nice to everyone seeing as how you probably have no friends. LOL

 

P.S.

I shoot as far as I can identify the target! Daylight 300+ yards is acceptable. At night maybe 200 max.

petefixer
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Can this light be built alot cheaper?

http://up.craigslist.org/spo/2183693097.html

 

Tas62
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Boaz
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petefixer wrote:

The drop in bulb you listed says it has five modes, my flash light currently has one mode and I bought it for that reason. If I buy that drop in red bulb would it the be a 5 mode? And thank you for the welcome, although being a Favre fan you are probably nice to everyone seeing as how you probably have no friends. LOL

 

P.S.

I shoot as far as I can identify the target! Daylight 300+ yards is acceptable. At night maybe 200 max.

...Now that's a mean thing to say .... I love it...match has friends ... He's not the only one who rides in that short bus..:~

###I would NEVER suggest anyone buy a  501B...i think it's so cheesy (no pun intended ).. just can't say enough bad things about that host .. spend 6 more bucks and get the solarforce ..Trash never starts to smell any better ..bad stuff..save yourself the pain of it.don't buy it .

       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                                  https://www.gty.org/

 

    Still selling diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

xP.1337
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first off, what rifle are you mounting on?

if your mounting on an AR with a rail system, that makes mounting ALOT easier

second, do you want to keep the flashlight you already have?

 

heres a few options

1) what i would do

http://ledsupply.com/creexpe-red-3.php

http://budgetlightforum.cz.cc/node/1150

^thats an all out option, you will need a different driver

 

2) just replace the LED with this (keep the current flashlight)

http://ledsupply.com/creexpe-red-1.php

with the same driver, if you only draw .7 amps from the tailcap (easy test with a multimeter) if not change the driver too.

this option will run as little as $6 up to $15 at WORST. you take the pill out, unsolder the LED, (at this point if driver replace, unsolder that) and reverse with new led and/or driver

 

502B does have mounting and wire options. and i like it ALOT for a flashlight (well i have a 502D, but its basically the same, just twice as long)

 

I would also buy some 18650s and a charger. well worth the run time upgrade. ill be getting some tenergy 18650s soon

Hayley
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I think is it possible to modify this light to be red and still as bright, but the detail I  also don't know, use a red filtered lens maybe the fastest way to solve your problem.

petefixer
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I can tell there is alot of options out there for this light, I guess what I am looking for is a red light atleast as bright as this one in red. I am going to be mounting it to the scope on top of my Tikka t3 .22-250 I have a Nikon Prostaff scope, which has a 1 inch tube. The links Tas62 gave me say the accessories are for a 501B is that going to work on my 502B? I have also seen on another sight somewhere there is a led that I can drop in it that is a 1 mode and produces 900 lumns of light, it is not red but maybe I want one of those too, ant truth to these? I dont remember where I saw it though. This stuff all seems so cool, I really gotta start learning how all this stuff works.

how2
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You could try this.

danceswithferrets
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Hi, I'm also a noob when it comes to flashlights (we call them torches Smile  ), but i'm pretty well versed in physics. When dealing with different colours (colors Wink  ) percieved brightness changes. For example a green light will appear a lot brighter than a red light at the same lumen output. Human eyes just happen to be more sensitive to lower wavelenghts. Also our eyes detect smaller differences in contrast with green light. Remember "green screen" computer monitors ? They were green for a reason, easier on the eye. Now I don't know about coyotes, but dogs see in black and white with some sensitivity into the red wavelengths. They probably don't see red as a "colour" but they can certainly detect it. This is just a wild guess but coyotes may be less sensitive to green light than red. Worth exploring the possibility at any rate, that is if green leds are available with the required power output.

Good hunting (although personally I'd prefer it if you let them be, I also aknowledge that farmers need to be able to grow food, such is the dichotomy of human existence).

Budgeteer
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Red colored  lens might be really the quickest solution along with:

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/y0004-flashlight-and-laser-univ...

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-pressure-switch-tail-... <- easy to swap if you have pointy tweezers.

The 501B host isn't that bad if youre not a flashlaholic. But beware, there are several versions around i have one that lens replacement is very annyoing.

 

I would go this way tho:

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-pressure-switch-tail-...

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/y0004-flashlight-and-laser-univ...

http://www.priceangels.com/SKYRAY_1JC8_Cree_Q5-WC_230-Lumen_LED_Flashlig... Might be nice and easy to mount and dismount.

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1708 <- or something like it Might be a cree P4 rated max 700mA... But should be ok at 750

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1708 but only 1 needed might be needed to kill one amc to get 750mA

Not very cheap but not costly either for a great potential.

The red cree led myight stink because of the lovely description on KD.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

Match
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Nice rifle/scope setup.  To answer your question, the accessories from the 501B should work just fine for your 502B.  

As far as the drop ins you come across, take the lumens rating with a grain of salt. Most aren't driven to the full potential and won't put out anywhere near what they're marketed as.  ( The p7 is notoriously overrated at 900lm).  Another thing to keep in mind is that what you're really after is throw - i.e. you want to illuminate those furry little buggers in excess of 200yds.  That quality is more a function of reflector type than than sheer lumen output.  Case in point:  

  My rifle light of choice is a Tiablo A9 with an ashperic lens.  At most it's putting out just over 200lm, but can light up a varmint at over 300yds.  Compare that to my new XM-L based solarforce that's pushing out over 600lm, but is only really good for half that range (and very floody). To give more of a visual, here's the Tiablo as compared to my solarforce:

I don't have any beam shots handy, but might be able to scare some up later. As stated already, there are a ton of options. If this is to be a dedicated rifle light, I may suggest getting a dedicated thrower and just using your current 502B as a general use light.  There are quite a few good thrower options that are pretty inexpensive. 

*Offtopic:  What part of Wisconsin? I grew up just north of the Twin Cities, but Gramps had a cabin over in Luck, WI... Spent a lot of time over there and around River Falls.  I've been down in S.C. for just over six years, but really miss that area (not to mention the size of the deer back home...the average SC deer is equivalent to a standard yellow lab).

petefixer
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"There are quite a few good thrower options that are pretty inexpensive. " Any of them in red?

I live in the very northeast corner of the state 10 minutes from the U.P. border. The deer are big here but there is not many around anymore. I am not against buying a different light at all, but what should a guy buy? Idealy I would like a light that will throw 10 miles on a single AA for about 300 hours on high, and of course be red. I just cant believe there isnt one out there. All kidding aside, I want the most powerful longest range light there is in red. However as always I want it cheap. Can I get anymore difficult? Anything as bright as mine or brighter in red would be excellent. Anymore suggestions?

Budgeteer
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Yes, still standing at my version but involves some DIY because of the RED requirement.

Pressure switch - http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-pressure-switch-tail-... 

weapon mount - http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/y0004-flashlight-and-laser-univ... 

FlashyLightey - http://www.priceangels.com/SKYRAY_1JC8_Cree_Q5-WC_230-Lumen_LED_Flashlig...  Might be nice and easy to mount and dismount.

RED thing - http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1708  <- or something like it Might be a cree P4 rated max 700mA... But should be ok at 750

Decent driver - http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1708 but only 1 needed might be needed to kill one amc to get 750mA, Might as well get it elsewhere

 

Well under 40usd... and a bit of soldering to get exatly what you want but you perhaps don't know it yet. Silly

For your needs i would go the DIY route. If you were my neighbor i would gladly make one for you if you provide the pieces. Time needed (without soldering iron heat up) 15min at most... and that with lubing and cleaning included.

Perhaps you can find some1 around who can make it if oyu don't want to go the DIY route.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

petefixer
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I completely agree with what you say however, I have no idea what all this means exactly. "but only 1 needed might be needed to kill one amc to get 750mA, Might as well get it elsewhere"  what are you talking about? Seriously talk to me like a child.......whats an amc or what is it that I need to kill? Is this the part that needs soldering? I can solder, I am a master diesel mechanic and can navigate though truck electrical systems with no problem, however this stuff kills me. Is there a flashlights for dummies video somewhere? I wanna build what you are saying but dont know how to begin even.

Budgeteer
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petefixer wrote:

I completely agree with what you say however, I have no idea what all this means exactly. "but only 1 needed might be needed to kill one amc to get 750mA, Might as well get it elsewhere"  what are you talking about? Seriously talk to me like a child.......whats an amc or what is it that I need to kill? Is this the part that needs soldering? I can solder, I am a master diesel mechanic and can navigate though truck electrical systems with no problem, however this stuff kills me. Is there a flashlights for dummies video somewhere? I wanna build what you are saying but dont know how to begin even.

Naah it is me that needs to be more reasonable and stop assuming all understand those flashaholic terms. Smile

You got almost all right.

Let me redo the list in english or close to it:

Pressure switch - http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-pressure-switch-tail-...  Nothing to say here

weapon mount - http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/y0004-flashlight-and-laser-univ... Pretty self explanatory bu you might need another one and already know which one you need so here you're on your own

FlashyLightey - http://www.priceangels.com/SKYRAY_1JC8_Cree_Q5-WC_230-Lumen_LED_Flashlig...  Might be nice and easy to mount and dismount.

RED thing - http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1708  <- or  any other cree P4 whose are rated max 700mA... Those can be bought at other retailers too also on ebay if you like.

Decent driver - http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1708  <- this one sells 5pcs a pack. You need only one. If you get a cree emitter p4 red rated at 700mA you may unsolder one of the 4 AMC chips to drop the current to 700mA or get this instead: http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=9608 but i would advise to not since it is hard to ever use that many boards rated at 700mA...

As for "you might get those elsewhere" it does just mean you might get lucky at other retailers selling single drivers. I always buy in bulk those... :/

My english is what it is. Since i speak a handfull of languages i tend to mixup a bit. Also suffering from slight dyslexia by trying to type fast.

Yaaawn... i hope it sounds decent this time. Smile

Now if you feel comfortable with a soldering iron in hand you can do it just easily. We will help you step by step if needed. Smile

You may also need this:

thermal glue of some sort - http://www.dealextreme.com/p/fujik-silicone-thermal-glue-50ml-grease-lik...

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

Budgeteer
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Oh the other hand you might need just this:

Pressure switch - http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-pressure-switch-tail-...

weapon mount - http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/y0004-flashlight-and-laser-univ...

FlashyLightey - http://www.priceangels.com/SKYRAY_1JC8_Cree_Q5-WC_230-Lumen_LED_Flashlig...

And cut some red cellophane like: http://www.enasco.com/product/9700879%28A%29

And try if the red is good enough since it would be hard to get sutable red lenses of that diamter.

Pretty cheesy way to do it but it may work. I suspect the cellophane will kill a fair amount of lumens too espacially if you need more layers. Might be tricky to do it as best a s possible. Perhaps painting it might do the trick.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

Piers
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I know astronomers use red lights to light up star maps or what ever they need to see as for reasons I can't quite remember red doesn't effect your night vision.

 

How well do red replacement lenses work? As that might work as an alternative to a red LED which would then give you a lot more choices, like a XM-L dropin from Manafont.

http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FA&s=27&id=143

 

I've no idea about gun stuff but it looks like Solarforce do suitable mounts and switches to go with their bodies.

 

 

petefixer
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XML drop in would give me about how amny more lumens than i currently have? This drop in is exactly what is says? Just drop it in place of the old one right? No mods needed? I am figuring this drop in and a red lense might work? And I wouldnt have to even know how to solder then right?

 

Oh and can I get it in a single mode?

Don
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It may well be that an XM-L dropin with a red filter will give you more light than a red LED. My brightest one measures at a peak 850 lumens. Swapping a dropin is a matter of unscrewing the head, taking out the dropin and putting a new one in. It is a good idea to wrap high-output ones in heavy aluminium foil until they are a tight fit in the throat of the light to allow for better heat transmission to the light body. It's no harder than changing a battery. You may want to take a spare battery though - at full output you are only going to get around 40 minutes till the battery needs charging.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

danceswithferrets
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Pook wrote:

I know astronomers use red lights to light up star maps or what ever they need to see as for reasons I can't quite remember red doesn't effect your night vision.

 

How well do red replacement lenses work? As that might work as an alternative to a red LED which would then give you a lot more choices, like a XM-L dropin from Manafont.

http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FA&s=27&id=143

 

I've no idea about gun stuff but it looks like Solarforce do suitable mounts and switches to go with their bodies.

 

 

Very true, question is whether you want to preserve your night vision, in which case you would need to use a dim light anyway, or rely on artificial light. If you choose to rely on artificial light then green is a better choice than red.

http://www.flashlightreviews.com/qa/nightvision.htm

^ This page explains the effects on the eye for different kinds of light.

petefixer
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Has anyone tried a XM-L in a 502B and how does my lens come out? Does the collar turn out? Where can I buy an additional head for mine? That way I will have one with a red lens installed and a clear lens installed.

Don
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Just tried it - the 502b needs a lot of aluminium foil to make the dropin a tight fit.

The light

 

Just unscrew the head. The lens is held in by the lighter coloured ring you can see inside. There are two notches 180 degrees apart that you can use to unscrew the retaining ring. The cheapest way to get another head would be to buy a 502B body which shouldn't cost very much - certainly under $10.

Heid

 

XM-L dropin going in.

drapine

 

Then just screw the head back on.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

petefixer
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Thanks for the pictures! Unfortunately I Dont have the two grooves in the ring that holds the lens in. It may be fun getting it apart. Where would I find the parts I need? Is there an extension for this light to add another battery?

Don
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petefixer wrote:

Thanks for the pictures! Unfortunately I Dont have the two grooves in the ring that holds the lens in. It may be fun getting it apart. Where would I find the parts I need? Is there an extension for this light to add another battery?

 

They might well have changed the design a bit - that one is about 4 years old I think. You won't get an extension for it - the only one I know of that does this is Solarforce.

http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FA&s=16&id=59

http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FA&s=16&id=60

Their extension will also work with the Uniquefire L2 and the old-style Ultrafire WF-504B - but not the new, more rounded 504 body.

 

However, Manafont will sell you the WF-502D body which takes 2 18650 cells and costs less than $10. Sounds worth a try to me.

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-wf502d-flashlight-tub...

 

From the photos there, it would seem to use the same sort of lens retention as mine.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

Hokum
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I hope it's ok to invade this thread.

If you want a budget red-light torch with longer running times, are there any other alternatives to this setup, especially some running on a 14500 or even AAA? The Ultrafire seems ok price-wise, but something more efficient would be nice.

 

 

by the way, you got a really, really great site going on here!

Don
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Onlyother thing I can think of is this red Cree dropin - should work fine in a Solarforce R2

Cree XLamp XP-C-R2 5-Mode 90-Lumen Memory Red Light Drop-in LED Module (38mm*26mm/8.4V Max)

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

raccoon city
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Welcome to BLF, Hokum.

Hokum wrote:

by the way, you got a really, really great site going on here!

I couldn't have said it any better.  There are only two forums that I enthusiastically check daily; BLF is one of them.

sb56637
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Hi there Hokum, thanks for saying so, we're glad to have you here! Enjoy your time.

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