So you think it is original driver from the H3? It would be really cool if Tido could publish the code so others can upgrade their flashlights.
If just hex is published then is not big a problem. Programmers are really cheap to make or buy. I made myself Brenner 8P (http://sprut.de/) and USBtinyISP (http://www.ladyada.net/make/usbtinyisp/) Both are working fine.
It looks like the original driver.
@Tido: Is it an unlabeled PIC? Which?
What compiler do you use btw?
I wonder if I should get into PICs, too. Whenever I read about the details, I think I prefer AVR though.
The driver PCB uses some kind of MCU with a PIC footprint. I couldn't get the original chip into programming mode, so I replaced it with a 12F683. The PCB used a transistor controlled by an AMC7136 for current regulation. I replaced those with two 7135, one controlled by PWM, the other by digital I/O. The software is a PIC port of the BLF-VLD, with some modifications to work with the push button and an added low power sleep mode.
Since there is no free tool chain for the PIC14 architecture, I had to use htsoft's hi-tech C compiler. Which is a royal pain to use in the free "Lite" version.
So would you be so kind to share the hex code?
I would do required modifications once I get the flashlight.
There are alternatives to the HiTech Lite, with restrictions, too: I'll try microC, SourceBoost and/or CC5X if/when I get myself a PicKIT.
I'd need to check some tutorials to get used to the different registers etc.
fibra:
I'll have to check whether I compiled the driver using the "Lite" or the "Demo" version of the compiler. If it was done with the Demo version, I think I'm not allowed to distribute the binaries. I've been planning to do a final release of the the BLF-VLD, including the port for PICs and some special drivers, but so far I just couldn't find the time and motivation to put it together.
DrJones:
There may be other compilers, but SDCC just didn't work when I started with the PIC port and none of the others are free (as in speech) or even run natively under Linux. Since all the choices where bad, I chose the one which promised best support for the MCU.
Tido:
You have done an excellent work and I enjoy reading your posts. Glad to hear that you will have a final release of your wonderful BLF-VLD. I hope the final release will include the memontary switch for remote mode switching.
WELL DONE
Tido, thank you for your answer. Looking forward for final release of BLF-VLD, hopefully with button option. :)
Thanks to Tido's inspiration, DrJones' driver and the fact that I just ordered the UF H6, I decided to finally mod my H3.
Driver: Nanjg AK47 1A with DrJones' lumodrv (https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/7163#comment-148503)
LED: XML T6 NW on copper PCB from LED-tech.de
and some dremel skills.. most useful tool was the grinding tool OL recommended me some time back.
Tido's pics helped a lot, the brass ring can be hammered out from above. I had to open it up with the dremel grinding tool because it was only 15mm in diameter and I couldnt get the Nanjg any smaller than 16mm. But it worked out pretty well and I started soldering the stuff together. Next was to trim the LED PCB down. Was a lot of work and took some time, but hey, thats the fun part. ;)
I wont say much about the driver because I guess you all can read, but I love it! :)
Basically, this assembly went into the light after some hours:
I glued the LED in place just like Tido and filled most of the empty part in the head with Fujik. Works pretty well actually.
Front view:
As you can see, lens is scratched (but the big white spot is just reflection, so its not that bad) and I made 2 silver rings to cover up the worst scratches. Next time, I would to a few things differently, but thats why we mod: to learn. This was definitely my hardest and most complicated mod so far, but:
-no PWM
-nice tint
-brighter
is really worth it. Also, some scratches dont matter because its gonna be used to work anyways. ;)
I have an old h3 that I think would be a good host for a 18650 powered nichia 219 headlight. I still need to figure out what driver to use. Im glad I found this post with all the helpful tips and pics. If I’m successful I’ll pay it forward with contributions of my own.
@electricjelly: DrJones and some others can program their own drivers, maybe you could do that too.
Take a look here:
I have a few of DrJones' drivers in my flashlights and I love them. :)
Thanks nightcrawl. I think I’ll be getting in touch with Dr Jones soon. It looks like he’ll be able to set me up with just what I need. I was checking out the Aqualab driver database. Even with all the info over there I was still having a hard time. How has your custom h3 build been holding up?
Problem with all these drivers is that none are designed for soft-button switches like the H3 has one. Drivers like that are pretty rare..
My custom build still gets a lot of use. Its a great, flood-only headlight and I use it to walk the dog, work or carry wood from our storage place to the firing. Dropped many times and still works perfectly, thanks to the head being filled up with Fujik. ;)
Only downside of this is that you shouldnt look at people when they look at you while wearing the headlight. Bright as hell. I got an XML and a 1A driver in it.
I’m glad to hear your u3 worked out so well. I used a u3 for a couple years as my daily work light. I love the form factor. I can shove it in a pocket in my tool bag, the 18650 lasts a few days, and the full flood is perfect for up close work. I’ve since upgraded to a Zebralight h600fw, which I love, but with a nichia 219, and a nice driver, I might be able to build one that’s even better.
And what are you waiting for? :)
I had posted my build here in this thread, but it got so big I decided to make a new thread. I didn’t want to hijack this one. Here’s a link to my modded UF-H3 build.
Hi there, old Thread new questions 
How did you manage to get the driver out? It seems to be pres fitted?
It’s been a while. the driver is soldered into a retaining ring that is press fit into the body of the flashlight. I remember I pressed it out. I’m pretty sure I pressed it out from the head side and it came out through the battery tube. in my case I wasn’t worried about saving the driver so I just pressed directly on the board. even though I was being rough with it I think the board survived it just fine. good luck with the project. I still use mine to this day. It’s a great host for a custom headlight.
The retainring should be copper, right?
With the Body beeing Aluminium and AL having a higher coefficient of thermal expansion it might be easier when heated up a little.
I dont want to damage the driver
I think it’s brass. I would maybe try using something like a wooden dowel. Place it in the middle of the board, then while holding the dowel in place and the flashlight together slam the dowel down on a firm table. It should pop the board out hopefully with no damage.