\Skyray king mod idea.

I would, if i had anything to read it with. It was surprisingly easy to get the driver out, i think i might even be possible to remove without even heating the head, i only heated it to like 50-60C and pushed it out thought the hole that the switch uses. if you have a programmer, you could try with your king.

I received a faulty one from lightmalls, only 2 of the 3 leds are functional.

They wanted me to send it back at my expense, which worked out more than I paid for it in the first place. Paypal was no good either, even though I won the dispute against lightmalls - again it had to be sent back (online tracked with proof of delivery) at my own expense before they would refund me.

So, no thanks to lightmalls (I recommend you don’t use them btw as they have very poor customer service) its now been sacrificed for experimentation instead.

I’ve managed to break it down to its individual components the same as Serfius has, I couldn’t get the driver board out from the battery side, but it pushed out easily from the front once I took out the reflector.

It is just a very tight fit, there doesn’t seem to be any glue holding it in place. It presses back in place ok without being loose.

I’ve swapped the leds around and proved that the driver board is fine, its just one of the leds doesn’t work.

They seem to be glued to the pill using a sticky white thermal paste, does anyone want any pictures of the internals ?

Pin 4 is ground on the Atmel ATTINYxx chips so that rules out them. It probably some sort of PIC.

Speaking of King mods… Anybody else see this vid ? It’d be super neat it someone could figure out how to put a battery voltage monitor in there and have it flash the capacity in colors every few seconds while off. Locator + battery gauge in one!

Oh, and the current sense resistor looks like it is that R010 resistor in parallel with the R068 which is probably 8.7 milliohms for the pair, but could be 87 milliohms depending upon how the maker marks their resistors.

Welcome to the club, emkay!

Can I directly replace these with U2 without changing anything on the driver ?

Emkay, I would test the LED in question first by connecting 3.6v directly to the star contacts to make sure it is the LED and not just a broken wire or bad solder at the driver.

Emkay, if you do try johnnymacs suggestion, ( I would) just use a partially depleted 18650.

Exactly. Freshly charged 4.2v might damage the emitter. 3.6v should be fine.

JM, it really depends on the cell. IMR cells can easily kill them but the crappy trustfire cells will work just fine cause of voltage drop. Either way just run it in another light for a bit. :D

Ah, great idea to push the driver out through the switch hole... I finally got it out! Thanks, Serifus :)

Now I have plans... ^_^

DrJomes, you know more about chip programming than most of us.

Eagerly waiting for to your magic! :bigsmile:

There are 3 SOT-23-6 Buck drivers + external FET.

PIC/AVR send PWM signals though 10K resistors.

Good luck with the micro controller Dr Jones. Also it seems ive finaly found my self some time to do some sketching around in Eagle. if this all works out the way I hope it does, I’m probably only going to be getting more kings in the future.

the problem is connectivity between the circuit board and the led

If I apply power to the corner of the led it works

I would be tempted to get 3 xm-l u2’s on 16mm stars, ditch that one and keep the two functional ones for other projects…. 0:) J)

You should be able to resolder the connection or solder on a wire.

I saw on another post that with U2, initial output was higher, but then it decreased… maybe those U2 had flat PCB, copper PCB is the way to go in that case.

I’m going with 3 cheap U2 ones from dinodirect, just got to wait for them to arrive now…