More Aurora SS Lights

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.36024

Looks just like the Ultrafire C3 SS. Q5 emitter. 98mm long so probably the same as the later (less good) Ultrafire C3s. Pity it isn't an R2 or an XP-G emitter. Tempted but suspect the Ultrafire I already have is better. DX obviously think I need to have less money.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.36025

5 mode CR2 light. Probably very nice.

Don, I received this light Saturday and I really, really like it. I have the a 3.7v RCR2 battery powering the light (blue label ultrafire battery purchased from goinggear.com) and this thing has very nice high on battery (equal to the high of the Romsien RC-A4 from shinningbeam with a Q5 emitter running on a 3.7v RCR123). I don't know if the high would be less if using a 3.0 CR2 battery but I assume it would be.

I love the compactness of this light as it measures 75mm in length with the head diameter bring 20.5mm (the tail is slightly smaller at 19.5mm in diameter).

The Glow In The Dark clicky is very responsive and well executed. The clicking action certainly doesn't scream "this is a $14 light" as it is a pleasure to operate. The modes go in reverse (as it is listed on the website) starting in high, then M, L, Strobe, and finally SOS. There is proper mode memory, so if you leave the light off for 2 seconds or more and it will turn on in the last mode that was used.

The clicky is also well recessed as it sits 2-3mm inside of the tailcap so tail standing is a breeze. This assumes the lanyard is removed (which I did immediately as I'm not a wrist lanyard fan). The light feels great in the hand and has been easy to transport via inside the pocket carry. The modes are well spaced out as you can clearly see differences between high, medium and low. The low is a decent low which is slightly brighter than the lowest low achievable on the programmable Akoray k-106 light.

Feel free to ask any specifics questions. Here are a few pics I just took at my desk (I'm open to instructions on how to properly make pics fit):

There is a hefty difference in output with 3V CR2s. I get 3090 lux on high at 1 metre with an RCR2 and about 550 lux on high with a 3V CR2. Brightness on a primary cell is quite depressing really.

Thanks for the headsup. I won't even bother then with the 3v CR2 unless the 3.7v needs to be charged for some reason and isn't ready to go.

One intersting discovery I found was that the head from Quark mini 123 fits this light. It was really cool to have the Quark mini XP-G R5 out put pumping out of this light and using a clicky.

That does sound like a really nice combination. Lots of light and very small. Doubt it'll run for very long on high - but then what CR2 light does? In my Orb Raws I get 10-12 minutes on high. This combo will totally slaughter them on output and probably runtime too.

Thanks for the tip Don! The SH-035 does look very tempting, although I already have the C3 SS (98mm version). I'm actually very impressed with my C3 SS, my only complaint is that it doesn't tailstand perfectly. I suspect this is a random manufacturing variation. I'm interested in trying this Aurora SH-035 to see if maybe I get a better tailstander.

The only difference I can see in the specs compared to the C3 SS is "XPE-WD Q5". Is this anything significant? The C3 SS says "Q5-WC". I still don't understand the LED bin codes very well.

I guess i have to dig out my wallett yet again for the 035.....nice looking light.

I seem to remember that you already have a single-mode C3 SS, Al? If so, the 5-mode C3 would be a nice addition, and I would hope that this SH-035 would be equally nice. My C3 SS arrived in perfect working order, no tightening necessary, good memory, nice low mode.

Yes i do man.......but i have the SS feeling now....blame Don, he's a bad influence. lol

Ha! I'm actually indifferent to SS or not, but I'm a sucker for quality mutli-mode AA lights for less than $14.00. The C3 SS does fit the bill.

I wonder what alloy of stainless steel they use for these lights? I used to work with designs that called for medical grade SS 17-4 and another alloy that was denominated "394". They were prohibitively expensive though.

It really should not matter since steel is stronger then aluminum......

The WC and WD bits are chromaticity bins, Both are cool white, but the WD bin is a slightly lower colour temperature. WC is 6350-7000K, WD is 5700-6350K. On the whole, the WD tint is more desirable than the WC. I find that with blue tinted light I lose depth perception, lower colour temperatures improve this.

http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLampXP_B&L.pdf

As far as I know the XP-E is simply an XR-E die in a smaller package, the bit that emits light is identical to the equivalent bin XR-E. The Q5 bin is 107-114 lumens at 350mA no matter what sort of Cree die, an XP-G Q5 would put out the same amount of light as an XR-E Q5 or an XP-C Q5

My guess is that the medical grade alloys need to pass stringent tests on chemical compatibility and corrosion resistance. There is a lot of chloride in the things that medical steel devices contact and cheaper grades of stainless steel can easily be pitted by this over time. When I worked in sewage treatment we used chloride as a rough measure of how much of the load on the works was from organic sources. Medical grade stuff will usually contain over 5% molybdenum for this reason. Not many alloys are expected to resist corrosion when being autoclaved and this would be a big part of material choice. 17-4 is an alloy that can be hardened but is readily machinable before hardening. It is a total pig to machine after hardening.

I'd guess these lights are made from 304 (18% chromium 8% nickel) 316 or 316L (Contains molybdenum for increased corrosion resistance, 316L contains less carbon than 316). 304 is the most common grade of stainless steel and is cheaper than 316. I'm not sure which one is easier to machine as this will be a big part of the reason for material choice.

Most decent stainless steels are only weakly magnetic or are completely non-magnetic. 316L is the usual grade for watch cases. If I still had access to the fun lab toys, I'd soon find out. But since those toys cost more than houses, they don't let random passers-by play with their kit.

I went to DX to get a watch pin remover and some soldering tools when the mouse jumped out of my hand and ordered an Aurora SH-035 all by itself. Then the keyboard joined in and typed my PayPal password all by itself.

Just as well that I don't have to use that excuse to anyone but me.....

Cool, im still debating on getting it, i still want another 18650 light. Hmmm i might just get both. Hey buddy in a PM could you please send me the link of the Aurora 18650 SS light that you have.

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Now that is just too Funny....lmao. Good one Mr. Admin.Laughing

I may have to get the AA version. It seems like it would be a good host for a XP-G R5. DX says the runtime is the same on the CR2 and AA version at 35 minutes. Certainly it would be little longer with the AA (or 14500). That's a great price too.Seems like a misprint.