The light is working. Beam shots tonight. Photos in the first post, show the rest of the build.
Looking forward to the for sale thread. :D I don't think you will be melting the TIR optics anytime soon, PILOTPTKs module also has them resting on copper and the body of my light got uncomfortably hot and the TIR optics were fine.
O-L, beautiful! However, the mouseover isn't working for me.
-Garry
I would solder the braid on the next loop down on the spring (at the point the top loop ends). You should get a lot more contact area and lower resistance that way… the way it is soldered now you probably only get contact at the bump in the braid.
It does now.
Yep, works! Thanks!
-Garry
Beautiful work with the 219s OL. I still use my nichia 2AA maglite everyday because of the tint. Whoever gets this will be one lucky duck!
But i think lumens will be around 800 because these are 219s we are talking about, afterall.
Slewflash: In the 6:th picture from the top you see 3 xm-l:s, 16mm I think.
Also states that in the title and description. 3 XM-L T6.
Slap some of those NiZn cells into that puppy and hold on tight… should be a wild ride.
Old-Lumens. It looks like you have those multi circuit board thingys down pat. I have a competition going with myself to see whether I can understand what your doing or doing mouse overs first. Another champion mod. Well done.
Thanks Old!
I really enjoy the images and descriptions you do on the builds. Each time, I see a little something new that I learn from. I have built quite a few lights… not many mods, but complete lights. I think you are waaaayyyy more creative at the modding than I could be.
GREAT WORK! Thanks for sharing! 
Dan
Oh right i thought this was another 219 build. Exam stress is getting to me…
There’s another LED than the Nichia 219? 
The shots were done with both the clear and frosted optics. They don't tell much, but I can tell you that the clear optic creates a black dead spot in the center of the beam. It's not appealing and overall, I have to say that the frosted is way better. (to me).
These shots are mouse over. The Frosted beam first, the clear beam on mouse over.
ISO 200, F:2.7, Daylight WB, Shutter 1 second.
ISO 200, F:2.7, Daylight WB, Shutter 1 second.
ISO 200, F:2.7, Daylight WB, Shutter 2 seconds.
What I see is that the clear TIR gives more lumens (I call it harsh light), but it isn't directed well. It's three beams and they don't come together. The frosted TIR pulls it all together and I like the look better.
That's it. I don't know if it will be for sale here. I took it to work and the first time I turned it on, someone wanted to buy it. I am giving him till Friday to decide if his wife will let him, LOL. Women run the world even if we don't want to admit it.
Nice mod OL! What is the thickness of the copper you used to mod the batt holder? Or is it copper tape on default contacts? And which springs did you used? I'm going to make another holder with copper contacts, and yours looks very good.
It is copper sheet that replaces the stock contacts. The sheet is 28 gauge (0.012").
yes, but they’re so smart that they let us think we do most of the time 
Another fantastic mod O-L, I do love reading your threads. Nothing better to accompany a good cup of coffee!
I wonder if the difference in the polished and frosted lens surprised anyone besides me?? When you said you polished the lens my first thought was that the polished would be best!!! Not as smart as I thought I was! …AGAIN!…STILL…. :~
Dan
If you were to use a 20mm TIR clear optic, the result would be better, because the three would be much closer to each other and the beams would merge better. When you get to the 50mm optic, the three are much farther apart and the beam angle of each is not enough to have them merge/overlap enough, to cover the dead space in between. The frosted TIR is basically putting a diffuser over the front, so the beams merge together and blend into one.