P60 Host with 3xAAA?

Is there any P60 host that works with 3xAAA?

If it can also work with 1x18650 then it's a bonus.

If it can extend to 2x(3xAAA) or 3x(3xAAA) in parallel for runtime... it's a real treat. :)

Solarforce L2i

Saik SA-8 can be moded to P60 and run 3xAA or 22600 / 18650

The L2i is a bit too expensive - can it bought as body only?

How to modify the SA-8?

http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FB&s=9&id=27

oops...

Thanks!

I think I'll buy the Solarforce. :)

solarforce seems to be good stuff. i spent the money on the L2P host, def worth it.

L2i Grey

or this set to fit all types

I plan to make another order from them and will make a 3xAA with a L2+18650 extender+CR123 extender. Maybe I should but L2i too. I just ordered a Powerex C9000 NiMH charger to go back to NiMH after LiIons :)

Hi, I'm HID45 and I'm a noob.

Will I fry 4,2v drop-in if using 3xAAA in L2i? Nimh rehcargables are 1,25 volts, so they are good to go, but what about 1,5V primaries?

Close enough , + there will be some voltage sag when you turn the light on , so hopefully should not be a issue with 1.5v cells ...

Good question.

Out of curiousity, I just mocked up the basic circuit of a flashlight, using a 3AAA cell holder loaded with fresh alkalines, the fabled 4.2V-max ultrafire XM-L T6 dropin from Manafont, and your average 1.5amp/250VDC clicky.

Switch open, and together the cells in their holder peaked at 4.74V.

Measuring in parallel, voltage immediately dropped to 3.6 volts @ 440mA when the circuit was closed, and stayed in that ballpark.

In a sacrificial mood change, I decided to run the same test with 2x CR123A. (Keep in mind this dropin is clearly NOT recommended for that voltage.)

Both primaries taped together, they measured 6.2V. Upon closing the circuit, voltage dropped to 3.6V @ 1,8A.

Fascinating figures; the T6 dropin from SolarForce (rated 3-6volts) I sacrificed for another torch behaves different.

On the solarforce 1-mode T6, voltage drops far less while it draws 300 milliamps more than the ultrafire T6 from Manafont.

The Solarforce can work with primaries, so, it draws less current at first, so voltage sags less. The manafont drew a huge amount of current when it started, seriously sagging the primaries. AAA's can't deliver much current at all.

sixfink, could you clarify your post. In a 3.6-4.2v dropin, even for an XR-E, can 3xAAA be safely used?

I would think that a .3v margin of error would be acceptable built into the driver, so my thoughts are yes it will work.

Does anyone know different from their experience?

one of the 3-18V drivers or a 3.6-8.4v driver was what I was thinking.

Howdy back trooplewis,

I cannot and will not make a statement as whether or not a 4.2V max XM-L dropin may be safely used with triple AAA.

Common sense tells me that those tiny cells won't be delivering straight 4.5 volts for a long time. Initial voltage usually sags pretty quickly after the first minutes of runtime, then stays within safe limits. Regarding the low price of the dropin, I am just taking the risk.

Just ran another quick test with my Metrawatt:

- 3xAAA fresh out of the box measured @ 4.73V

- circuit closed with another fresh Manafont XM-L T6 (single mode, I always make bulk purchases), voltage dropped to 3.70V @ 480mA. That's a voltage drop across the dropin of roughly one volt.

After one minute of runtime, the alkalines measured 4.27V, and after one more minute of recovery, they were at 4.3V. ten minutes later, they had settled at 4.42V

Conclusion: I consider the risk of frying the pill negligible on my setup.

one more thing about thermal management - the 4.2 Manafont T6 dropins barely ever got warm during my tests when run on triple AAA alkalines. In comparison, the XR-E (unknown bin) in my terralux-converted mini maglite gets smoking hot after like five to ten minutes, driven a 700mA (2xAA). Only one time on every set of fresh cells, though; after it has turned excess voltage into heat once, it pretty much stays as bright for another hour, but not getting as hot anymore.

Also, keep in mind I am not fully understanding every bit that's going on in an electronic circuit. I am merely using my stuff like a monkey that has found the game warden's loaded rifle (errr... not quite). I know how to set up the multimeter correctly and connect the leads, I can read the scale, but I can only try to interpret the readings correctly. That's why I have never inquired any further about radiological instruments like geiger counters or ion chambers (though I do have a CD V-715 gamma survey meter, mostly for nostalgic reasons). I wouldn't even attempt looking at an oscilloscope, or trying to get behind the all the deeper secrets of PWM, for example.

6F

L2i