I dont want to opet a new topic about this so Ill try to get an answer here.
Well, I have 2 SMall SUn ZY-T13, and with both I have same pronlem, they are shorting out.
I dont know exactly where and thats troubling me…
Anyone other had that experience.
Driver placement in this flashlight, with that alu-ring on top of it, is littele messed up.
Probably driver is shorting out somewhere butits hard to tell where.
One is with stock driver, and the other is with ST50 (not sandwich) driver. But forget about that modded one, I wanna concentrate on this one with stock driver.
I really dont know whats happenining and where this short occurs, because, because of mnessed up driver placement, there are many possibilities, and Im not so experience to huess what would be most probable source of shorting…
its not shorting from the reflector.
Im pretty sure that driver is shorting somewhere, maybe that retaining ring too.
Im pretty sure that this setup has design flaw somewhere, but I didnt succed oto pinpooint it yet…
Because I think there is lots of weak points and possible shorting points here…
FOr example driver (+) spring and driver retaining ring
retaining ring and bottom of the driver.
Other side of the driver with insides of the “tube” or “pill”, dont know how to call it (on the side or to the emmiter side)
Mybe I forgot something - but its not reflector…
It seems it is not shortcircuit after all.
I thought it was shortcircuit just because of sparks sometimes occur on the en of the battery-tube - weather when Im screwing on the tailcap (you can even here small crackling noivces), or when I close the circuit by some metal or scissors.
I dont know why this occurs, but it is not short-circuit (as flashligtht wouldnt shine with short circuit, as my friend explained to me - i dont know much about electricity).
SO, its basically some sparks when there is weak connection on the tailcap - its not short circuit…
When tailcap is screwed all together everything works fine.
….Also, just to tell you guys, these are somewhat good flashlights (especially that big head and reflector, but with cheap driver and internals — so output heavily varies from unit to unit.
SOme units are brighter, some are less bright. Also hotspot is not always the same…
Ive modded one unit with P7 3,0A (1,5A measured at the tailcap, 1,0A with stock driver) driver from lightmalls and Im satisfied, but it doesnt have mode memory quick as I hoped….
Dude! I just threw 500m with this thing!! Holy smokes!
Only mod was 2x(0.47ohm) to get ~1.55A. And of course, a perfect dedome.
I got back at night, and I just came across a a bird's nest building in the middle of paddy field (they're huge, and white). And since I brought my T13, I just had to try. BAM! Clear as daylight. Metaphorically of course, but you get the point.
Google Earth told me it's 500m. Sadly no pics, didn't bring camera at the time. Will try again next time I go through there.
Oh bugger… I soldered it about 4-5 times and thought, that can I really suck this much in soldering? :weary:
Good thing is, I apparently don´t suck that much. Bad thing is, I don´t have the right resistors…
Any links where to purchase? Intl shipping mandatory…
Too bad for that mistake. SMD resistors are a problem, so many standards. Normally you would need a R22 or 220 (note the underline) for 0.22ohm. Not easy to find.
I just use a standard 1W pin resistor. A little big but fits just nice if you trim properly to size.
I have ordered the light on the wallbuys promotion and don’t want to wait another two weeks when it has arrived. I have some 1/4W axial resistors on order with values below 1ohm but I think a pot would be my favorite.
Viffer, thats a great vid and it tells a lot. But the gains seem very marginal considering the substantial current increase to gain a few extra lumens. Have you had a chance to play outside with it yet?
If we calculate the stock driver current which is 1A, the led current roughly 2A. The modified driver’s input current is 1.4A and the led current should be aroud 2.8A, but it’s probably not exactly true because of the driver efficiency loss.
According to the cree datasheet, from 2A to 2.8A led current increase results in about 25% brightness increase(at constant emitter temp!). 40% more current, and only 25% more brightness.
In our case the 40% more input current resulted only 17% more brightness. 1A -> 600lumen, 1.4A -> 700lumen.
The additional 8% (25-17) loss is probably due to the driver, and the higher emitter temperature.
I think it’s not bad for this price, but the zy-t08 is better in this price range.
Very similar beam profile as the other lights with big reflector, nice concentrated spot (measured 43kcd at 1.4A, 36kcd at 1A), but some rings are visible.
Do you have he crelant collimator head? I’m wondering what readings this light would get at 2.8a with that head
I’m waiting for my t13 to show up, have a few pots to try and a bunch of resistors if my pots wont work.