Thanks very much! Frontpageād and Stickyād.
Ordered three of these for 1.60 each inc shipping on eBay. I already have 18650 sockets but they donāt give much space for protected cells. I guess I can make my own emergency packs with these.
Still, for standalone chargers, does anybody know a place for strong 18650 holders those can accept even an XTAR 18700 cell?
I found that the normally available battery holders wonāt accept protected 18650ās (which are actually 18700ās) ā¦ The easiest way is to use short leads (4ā) fitted with croc-clips ā¦ The croc-clips will easily clip onto magnets ā¦ The magnets will āstickā to the battery ā¦ Easy !
There are photos of this somewhere on BLF.
Good Luck.
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Found and bought even better size and cheaper heatsinks! 
Thatās the way Iām using my hobby charger. Magnets donāt stick to copper PCBās at the bottom of protected batteries, Iām afraid. But still, youāre right. Attaching crocodiles to the output seems to be the best option for now. You can even charge cell phone batteries this way, through a clipper, a pin or another mating socket.
Hmm, I must order a few Nice find.
They also have different sizes of copper plates. These can be good to fill in holes in some pills, or to modify the distance of a star to reflector.
Iād like to connect a small digital voltmeter to this TP4056 module to monitor charging.
Can I do it by connecting input of voltmeter (http://www.ebay.com/itm/330702194021) in parallel to the output of the charger?
Verge: yup it should work, decent price tooā¦
According to Cottonpickers, he is using the Linear Technology LTC4054 integrated circuit in his charger.
I googled the websites of the two companies Linear Technology (LTC4054) and TP Micro (TP4056),
LTC4054-4.2 Datasheet and Product Info | Analog Devices and http://www.tpmicro.com/goods.php?id=47 respectively.
The general description stated by the two companies are almost the same except for this part that was stated on Linear Technologyās description;
āWhen the input supply (wall adapter or USB supply) is removed, the LTC4054 automatically enters a low current state, dropping the battery drain current to less than 2ĀµA. The LTC4054 can be put into shutdown mode, reducing the supply current to 25ĀµA.ā
TP Microās description states;
āWhen the input supply (wall adapter or USB supply) is removed, the TP4056 automatically enters a low current state, dropping the battery drain current to less than 2Ī¼A. The TP4056 can be put into shutdown mode, reducing the supply current to 55Ī¼A. ā
The only difference is the 25ĀµA stated by Linear Technology, and 55ĀµA stated by TP Micro.
My question is, will there be significant difference, if ever, in performance with regards to the two chips?
would it be possible to mod this board to charge 4.30v li-ions?
You cannot change the 4.20 volt reference in the chip. Technically you could lift the 0 volt pin of the chip to 0.1 volt, but it is not a good solution.
henrik, what is your recommendation for cc/cv charging 4.30v cells? i want something i could leave overnight
I am not aware of any good solutions for 4.30 volt. You can get a few 4.35 volt chargers.
Some hobby chargers can be used, because you can trim the voltage. In that case you could trim the LiPo setting to 4.30 volt and the LiIo to 4.20 volt.
I wonder if Kreislers dream charger will have that possibility.
Has anyone tried the 1.5a versions?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390683333577
Also if I stuck a 10k variable resistor as the current resistor could I then install one of those cheap led ammeters for checking the current or would that being there mess with the charging?
Hello. Does anybody know if it exists a module like this, but for charging LiIon in 2S configuration? Or should I use one of these cc/cv modules adjusted to 8.4v and one of these FT protected battery boxes ?
I like these charging boards, i wired one of mine to a lipo volt meter and a male usb plug.
Also gave it the resistor mod which was a real pita.
The volt meter may not be totally accurate but gives a good idea of cell charge.
Is there a NIMH charging board like this one?
Iāve searched but could not find anything.
Nice mod crx.
Changing the current resistor isnāt hard if you reflow the board on a hotplate or stove. You can keep a eye on the temp with an inexpensive food thermometer. 0805 resistors fit ok on the pads. Needs just a tiny bit of solder paste.
FT 0805 3.9K-62K Resistor Pack
Thanks for the tips.
I havenāt tried reflowing yet but itās on the agenda, plus i have a gas cooker and no old potsā¦
Whatās the temp range to aim for when reflowing?
I aim for as low as will flow my solder. Sn63 Pb37 should flow around 183Ā°C.
Probably better to keep lead solder out of your kitchen if possible. People use a portable electric hot plate / stove or griddle. If you have any, a piece of scrap metal is usable instead of an old pot or pan. Could even try a flatened piece of a soda can aluminum if nothing else is available. Not sure if the heat on such thin aluminum might be uneven on a gas or coil electric burner. Worked ok on a flat top electric burner.
~ edit ~
Guess you donāt really need solder paste at all for this. You could pre-tin the new smd resistor with any solder. Then reflow the board, remove original resistor & place the new resistor while its hot with tweezers.