Received my UF-T1 yesterday. My first impressions: A fine torch. Nice smooth threads. Imho it is not titan, but I’m not a professional.
From left to right: DQG III Ti, III SS, UF-T1
What's it like compared to DQA III Ti, III SS?
What the light output like?
Can it take 10440 batteries?
It looks slightly bigger than the other two.
Does DQA III Ti has a clicky?
It’s a magnet
I have a UF-T1 on the way from DX to be reviewed. Looking forward to this one. Might just end up on my neck lanyard instead of my Ti.
Yes, it’s greater than the DQA III. Notably longer…
Specs from UF-Shop: 5.9cm(L) x 1.3cm(Diameter)
DQA Ti: 57.5mmx12.6mmx12mm
Hello Infinite,
Could you be more specific when you say greater (disregarding dimensions or weight) ?
I finally go around to doing this. Purchased from UF-Shop.
Didn’t like the color, so I sanded and redid it…
is it titanium anodizing? :heart_eyes:
I’ve dissasembled the head of teh light. You can anodize the head too!
Yes, I should have mentioned that.
I wanted to keep the head bare at least for the pics. I might do the head, but try the light as a whole. I accidentally anodized the threads on the body and now my light is not very happy.
How many volts have you used for that dark purple anidizing?
It really seems to depend on the item you are doing, but for me, somewhere between 40 and 50 volts. I use batteries so I never really have exact voltage.
Why use electricity? Heat is the way to go. ;) I have anodized a titanium spork simply by tossing it into a campfire, it came out the next day in a nice rainbow color.
I prefer electricity for it’s dependability(with the correct setup). Also, I don’t think you can get solid colors with heat. Well maybe with a controlled high heat, I’m not sure. :quest:
What scaru did was oxidizing, not anodizing I guess..^^
Technically, I think both are oxidizing. I may be wrong though. It wasn't a solid color or anything, just a rainbow.
I think oxidizing is reacting with something while anodizing is putting a layer of anoter metal onto something.. but honestly I dont know.^^
Just received this light. It’s incredibly small 
Anodizing is actually controlled oxidation. With some metals the oxidation that forms actually protects the metal from further degrading because oxidation stops taking place once it has reached a certain depth (not steel, although the oxidation can slow steel’s degradation, it does not entirely stop), aluminum is one such metal, so someone along the line found that you can purposely apply a layer of oxidation using electricity to protect and actually harden the surface of aluminum to protect it (“hard anodizing”, not sure of the difference in process on what make something simply anodized and what makes it “hard” anodized). Never did it myself, but from instructions that I have seen on anodizing aluminum I found on the web, after the electrically formed oxidation layer, you are supposed to boil it to close the “pores” of the oxidation and seal it, however, while the “pores” are open, you can add color to the aluminum, but the anodizing itself is “colorless” (though I can tell the difference between a freshly cut piece of ally and one that’s oxidized/clear anodized, there is a color difference, but the shades are so close that many people cannot tell) which is why some torches that look like raw aluminum can actually be anodized, called “clear” anodizing.
reading from page 1 don't get a complete thought on this light.
is this a good light in term of built quality, brightness, driver durability etc etc?
Don’t think ultrafire is ever synonymous with quality… can’t see the point of getting this light over say… the v2 of the Preon-0. Better quality, all flood (who wants throw with a light this small?), magnet on bottom, better looking (imho), shorter, lower low, etc.