Shadow JM26 Driver (Place for more AMC7135)

FastTech seems like a good place to get them, as they sell them in quantities of 10 for cheap. I have a few dozen coming my way.

Thanks for the reply and pics :slight_smile:
I have an SL3 i might open up :slight_smile:

Does the "38M" designation not indicate the 380 mA version of these chips?

texas shooter:
Clearance is not a problem :slight_smile:

JonnyC
OK, thanks I will look it up! But as I need some 26650 too, I might buy from intl-outdoor. They use Singpost on packages with tracking number, which takes just a few days to arrive in Sweden.
I ordered the JM26 from there, and here’s how fast I got it:
2012-12-26 15:06 —> Left Singapore
2012-12-30 13:57 —> Arrived in Sweden

I dunno what FastTech uses, it’s great if they use Singpost or HKP though.

MattSPL
No problem! :slight_smile:

Chicago X
I don’t know actually, I’ve also been thinking about that. Can someone else confirm this? Would be good to know, so that I know what to buy. I’m not at home so I haven’t got my DMM…

I will have a look inside my SL3 and post pics later. The SL3 is 4.5A, so it will be interesting to see how they differ, and might help in knowing what to do to get more power :slight_smile:

So jealous.

And yeah, 7135's are so cheap that it doesn't really matter where you buy them.

Ah, I never noticed that. Looking at the pics on intl-outdoor, that does seem to be correct.

Update: The guy living here had a multimeter! (Dunno about quality though, lol) On full it draws 3030 mA, so those are 380 mA chips indeed. I’ll probably just add one more then :bigsmile: Feels like I’m pushing the XM-L too hard at 4.2A hehe!

I wouldn’t worry about it getting too hot :wink: I mostly use it outside and it’s currently –22°C here (–7.6°F). –30°C to –40°C isn’t unusual here (–22°F to –40°F)

Anyone else interested in the stars, they look like nanjg mode selection stars….

Which they are not. They are jsut bling factor. The center golden part of the circle, the stars and the masked part of the circle are all one same surface for the positive contact which leads through the vias on the other side of the board where the red wire is soldered.

I couldn’t get the driver out. I need to get a good tweezers or something as the disc is too tight.

So you have 3.04A total in the design. I would recommend adding 2 350's or 2 380's, anymore won't do you much good - just verified that on a modified Crelant 7G9 - I dropped 4.56A (measured 4.50A) down to 3.80A, dropped 2 380 7135's, and the ceiling bounce test saw no difference at all. In theory, the XML's reach their peak at 3.5A, but I go for 3.7-3.85A, assuming there is some loss going to the LED.

Buzz out those spots to see if they are trully parallel with the rest of the mounted 7135's, if so, use them, measuring after will confirm they are soldered ok.

Slacker. There is no question at all you should be adding the full compliment of 3 chips. If your not happy you can always remove 1 or 2 chips. We need to have before and after night shots as well. Thanks.

Do you think 3.8A to 4.1A will make a difference in brightness? I'm wondering how Match's results (https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/2346

) work in the real world myself. He shows a peak starting at 4.1A, but very little gain above 3.8A or so. Haven't come across any corraborating evidence in real flashlight tests.

Seriously I would try one at a time and check for heat build up. I have no idea what the heat sinking is like on this flashlight. The hotter the LED the less efficient. Before and after shots with the same camera settings will give a good idea whether the light is working better or not. 3 amps is the sweet spot for output and battery life. Good luck on your mission.

Those 38M 7315 are of course 380mA chips. The 350mA ones are 35"x", so the first two digits are that tell you the rating.

There are empty pads, look at that board, no need for staking.

Looks like there is room for a 4th chip, the ground wire is soldered to the pad where one of the pins should be. I don't know about the clearance.

Those stars don't look like any connections to anything, just unmasked copper (gold plated), esthetics only.

Here’s the driver of my Shadow SL3

That's 4560mA. You have exactly 50% more current, but I doubt you have 50% more brightness compared to 3040mA.

I initially thought you soldered those extra 4 chips yourself, but did you?

No, this is how the SL3 comes. It is 4.5A as standard.
Do you think it’s possible to stack chips to increase the current?