So you have 3.04A total in the design. I would recommend adding 2 350's or 2 380's, anymore won't do you much good - just verified that on a modified Crelant 7G9 - I dropped 4.56A (measured 4.50A) down to 3.80A, dropped 2 380 7135's, and the ceiling bounce test saw no difference at all. In theory, the XML's reach their peak at 3.5A, but I go for 3.7-3.85A, assuming there is some loss going to the LED.
Buzz out those spots to see if they are trully parallel with the rest of the mounted 7135's, if so, use them, measuring after will confirm they are soldered ok.
Slacker. There is no question at all you should be adding the full compliment of 3 chips. If your not happy you can always remove 1 or 2 chips. We need to have before and after night shots as well. Thanks.
) work in the real world myself. He shows a peak starting at 4.1A, but very little gain above 3.8A or so. Haven't come across any corraborating evidence in real flashlight tests.
Seriously I would try one at a time and check for heat build up. I have no idea what the heat sinking is like on this flashlight. The hotter the LED the less efficient. Before and after shots with the same camera settings will give a good idea whether the light is working better or not. 3 amps is the sweet spot for output and battery life. Good luck on your mission.
Yeah, hopefully
Only thing is the heat sinking. The 3 leds are bonded on a single aluminium star that is glued into the head of the light, so the only area of contact with the head is around the edge of the star.
+1 - they are all in parallel so doesn't matter where. That's why you can even remove some, or double stack (3 high) them. But, oh boy, pushing a single 26650 over 5 amps? Not sure what the limit is on high qual batteries... I know there's been things published here on BLF about that. 6 amps would be nice, 2 amps per LED, but 6 amps on 1 battery? - only the best batteries, maybe...
Not sure, but 9-10A even on an IMR may be unrealistic -- should check this.