Ah ok, oops - didn't think about that.
-Garry
Looks like a press fit. Try prying it open with a mini flat head screwdriver.
In this case if it’s an odd sized driver (>17mm diameter), I would either desolder (or use a heatgun) all the parts off the driver and use it as a contact plate and buy a 17mm driver. Otherwise you can buy a 20-21-22mm contact plate. They’re cheap. Int Outdoor or Fancyflashlights (CNQG) carries them.
To get you started. To check if you actually fried your LED or driver, you can connect the battery using some lead wires directly onto the LED contact points to see if your LED is in fact fried. If it works, then it’s your driver. Just don’t blind yourself in the process. I don’t know how many time I’ve done that. LOL
Tied powering the led with leads directly to a battery. The led is still in moonlight mode, must be the led or led and driver, while I’m at it I will still upgrade the driver also since this light looks like it is heat sinked good.
That is the cheapest soldering station I’ve seen. Tho shipping doubles the cost. To really know if its could be passable quality (safety wise) need to find someone who has done (or willing to do) a teardown, assess its design &/or take pictures so others can assess it.
A lot of cheap noname chinese AC electronics are made with horrible disregard for safety, laws & fire codes.
Can you measure the driver? Is the light 1 or 2 18650?It looks like 2 * 18650, if that’s the case and the driver is 19-20mm, this is a real nice driver.
I’ve just fitted it to a host, and it’ll definitely be on the cards for any multi-cell xm-l builds I do.
Fasttech has some larger diameter drivers available; if you find the right diameter, you may be able to find a decent driver there.
24mm driver, 2.4A for 2x Li-Ion cells, listed as no mode memory though: http://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10001748/1127400-6v84v-5-mode-24a-led-flashlight-driver-tr-001
21mm driver - 2.8A for 2x Li-Ion cells, specs say no memory but I haven't been able to confirm that yet on mine: https://www.fasttech.com/products/1143100
I haven’t seen a glued one (but they’re probably out there).
Some are soldered in place, but it doesn’t look like yours is.
I HAVE had some that are pressed in place so well that I broke the board getting them out. I didn’t care since I wanted to get rid of strobe anyway…
if you find yourself using a lot of force, you might want to unsolder the leads from the emitter. some times tugging on them will pull the traces off the star.
I have an AOYUE 936 soldering station. great for soldering leads and adding chips to drivers. I paid $35 shipped from US ebay seller.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?\_trksid=p3872.m570.l1313&\_nkw=AOYUE+936&\_sacat=0&\_from=R40
PilotPTK recommended that Hobby King soldering station and that was enough fo me to order! Haven't used mine yet. They carry it in the US Warehouse so that's a plus!
Sometimes drivers are soldered in the inside (solder joint inside the pill where you can't see it) like on the Trustfire F20.
-Garry
I just got the solder station from hobbyking 2 days ago. Works good for what time I have used it. Done a few soldering test and is a lot better than my irons. Heats up quicker than my 30 watt soldering irons. Maybe 1 minute or so. Has a switch on the side that you can turn the iron off when done instead of having to unplug it. I have not took it apart to check the quality of the insides. From what I gather its a copy of the well liked hakko 936. The tip that comes with station is a bit small for normal soldering probably works good for smd work. You can find extra tips on flea bay for a couple bucks look up (936 tips) the hakko uses the same size tips as this one.
As for the quality there is a couple of reviews over at hobbyking that feel the soldering station is ever bit as good as the hakko. Some where professionals that use the station on a daily basis.
If you can get the driver out post up a pic of the component side.
looks just like mine except the name - and the stand actually looks better.
oh, and half the price :_(
The cheapest Aoyue 936 is now over $60.50 shipped on ebay. Think I will go with the Hobby King, might only use it a couple of times. The board has a diameter of 22mm and the host runs 2x 18650 batteries. Since the led seems to be fried also, which led should I get, preferably one with leads if they come with and without. Also what else is needed, I know soldering wire and flux or should I use the combo wire with a flux core. Should I buy some lead wire, what kind? What about thermal glue, what brand? Thanks everyone for all the help.
i think you can find the 936 for $35 or so but i’d go w/ the hobby king, too
hobby king has silicone wire, great for leads
i use flux core solder and a jar of flux
Radio shack 60/40 rosin core solder or silver-bearing solder, the smaller the diameter the better. Get some flux while you are there and make soldering easier.
For the led cree xml you choose bin and tint. Fasttech should have some to look at. 20mm pcb.
Thermal glue for the led fasttech FUJIK or if you want high quality Artic Silver thermal epoxy. Note: Epoxy does not come off easily the silicone Fujik comes of much easier for future modd’s.
Silicone high strand count wire can be had at epbuddy in the states. Ordering from hobbyking makes the order come from china if your going to order the soldering station from the US warehouse. 22AWG should work fine.
To glue the driver in you will need some kind electrically conductive epoxy. I have never used any so maybe someone else can comment on this.
60/40 solder is not a good alloy for general purpose work. You want 63/37 rosin core solder.
Removed the circuit board but tore it up in the process. The driver is 22mm and I can only find a 21mm contact plate(hoy) on fancyflashlights and intl-outdoor. Can I use a 21 and solder around the edges?
I have to disagree. Info on solder here. 60/40 and 63/37 have the same compounds tin and lead. 60/40 is probably the most commonly used for hand soldering. The only difference being 63/37 melts at exactly 361°F making it eutectic. 60/40 melts at a range of 361°F to 374°F. Eutectic alloy is probably well suited for printed circuit boards, it does have its advantages like a lower precise melting point and no plastic phase. Soldering a wire to a driver or led 60/40 rosin core will work fine. This is the stuff I use 60/40 rosin core solder .032 diameter 8.0 oz. spool.
You can disagree… but you’re wrong. 
Unless you gave a very specific requirement, you really want to use 63/37.
Once upon a time I was certified for soldering on equipment destined for manned space flight and other hyper-critical things… I know my solder fu quite well.
Like I said 63/37 has it’s advantages. So are you saying that I am wrong that 60/40 cannot be used and is not commonly used for general purpose hand soldering like a wire to a driver or led? If you are I would have to disagree again. 