I just got the solder station from hobbyking 2 days ago. Works good for what time I have used it. Done a few soldering test and is a lot better than my irons. Heats up quicker than my 30 watt soldering irons. Maybe 1 minute or so. Has a switch on the side that you can turn the iron off when done instead of having to unplug it. I have not took it apart to check the quality of the insides. From what I gather its a copy of the well liked hakko 936. The tip that comes with station is a bit small for normal soldering probably works good for smd work. You can find extra tips on flea bay for a couple bucks look up (936 tips) the hakko uses the same size tips as this one.
As for the quality there is a couple of reviews over at hobbyking that feel the soldering station is ever bit as good as the hakko. Some where professionals that use the station on a daily basis.
If you can get the driver out post up a pic of the component side.
looks just like mine except the name - and the stand actually looks better.
oh, and half the price :_(
The cheapest Aoyue 936 is now over $60.50 shipped on ebay. Think I will go with the Hobby King, might only use it a couple of times. The board has a diameter of 22mm and the host runs 2x 18650 batteries. Since the led seems to be fried also, which led should I get, preferably one with leads if they come with and without. Also what else is needed, I know soldering wire and flux or should I use the combo wire with a flux core. Should I buy some lead wire, what kind? What about thermal glue, what brand? Thanks everyone for all the help.
i think you can find the 936 for $35 or so but i’d go w/ the hobby king, too
hobby king has silicone wire, great for leads
i use flux core solder and a jar of flux
Radio shack 60/40 rosin core solder or silver-bearing solder, the smaller the diameter the better. Get some flux while you are there and make soldering easier.
For the led cree xml you choose bin and tint. Fasttech should have some to look at. 20mm pcb.
Thermal glue for the led fasttech FUJIK or if you want high quality Artic Silver thermal epoxy. Note: Epoxy does not come off easily the silicone Fujik comes of much easier for future modd’s.
Silicone high strand count wire can be had at epbuddy in the states. Ordering from hobbyking makes the order come from china if your going to order the soldering station from the US warehouse. 22AWG should work fine.
To glue the driver in you will need some kind electrically conductive epoxy. I have never used any so maybe someone else can comment on this.
60/40 solder is not a good alloy for general purpose work. You want 63/37 rosin core solder.
Removed the circuit board but tore it up in the process. The driver is 22mm and I can only find a 21mm contact plate(hoy) on fancyflashlights and intl-outdoor. Can I use a 21 and solder around the edges?
I have to disagree. Info on solder here. 60/40 and 63/37 have the same compounds tin and lead. 60/40 is probably the most commonly used for hand soldering. The only difference being 63/37 melts at exactly 361°F making it eutectic. 60/40 melts at a range of 361°F to 374°F. Eutectic alloy is probably well suited for printed circuit boards, it does have its advantages like a lower precise melting point and no plastic phase. Soldering a wire to a driver or led 60/40 rosin core will work fine. This is the stuff I use 60/40 rosin core solder .032 diameter 8.0 oz. spool.
You can disagree… but you’re wrong. 
Unless you gave a very specific requirement, you really want to use 63/37.
Once upon a time I was certified for soldering on equipment destined for manned space flight and other hyper-critical things… I know my solder fu quite well.
Like I said 63/37 has it’s advantages. So are you saying that I am wrong that 60/40 cannot be used and is not commonly used for general purpose hand soldering like a wire to a driver or led? If you are I would have to disagree again. 
Yes, it can be used. So can 90/10. So can 70/30 cadmium/tin solder (!). None are the proper solder for most work. Why buy an inferior product when a better one is available for the same price? Particularly if a novice is going to use it…
Sn63 (63/37) is the best for hand soldering - because of the limited plastic phase.
This is not a debatable question these days! of course 60/40 works, as does 40/60, but the eutectic alloy gives the best results.
And before you ask, I have a drawer full of soldering certifications, all the way back to the WS6536 days!
Cheers
21mm should be fine unless someone can chime in with a link for 22mm.
Solder should be enough but if you have difficulties soldering to that aluminum, You can wedge in a short piece of wire.
Your original statement was what I disagreed with. 63/37 is considered to be superior by many including NASA but 60/40 is still the more commonly used. There has been many a discussion about which to use for general purpose hand soldering and for most they can not tell the difference besides price. I don’t think radio shack even carries 63/37 (not sure though) may have to be purchased online. To me the superior solder would be rosin core silver-bearing solder in the formula of 62/36/2%. Has very similar properties to 63/37 but with a higher electrical conductivity and is considered by many to be the choice for smd hand soldering work. I think this discussion could end on the conclusion that its a matter of opinion for general hand soldering (like flashlight parts) unless your working on the space shuttle.
Southland sorry for getting of topic in your thread.
The 21mm driver could be used. From my experiences sometimes the drivers are a little bigger than what is stated and sometimes smaller.
You can take a small solid copper wire and run through one of those holes on the outside ring of the driver through the component side up to the battery connection side. Letting it protrude through the hole just a little on the battery connection side and solder it to the hole. Then take the wire and bend it up around the driver side until it reaches back to the hole where you soldered the other end. Cut the wire flush with the hole and solder it together to its other end. You can do this in several different holes if the driver is still not a good fit. You may want to thermal epoxy the driver in a couple of spots or all the way around if the driver seems to be loose and would be a good idea to reduce heat stress on the driver. Some drivers will not work correctly with out heat sinking them. I have never used this one so I have no idea.
Just fixed a loose fitting driver last night with this method. If you need pics I could probably disassemble the light to take some pics.
@moderatoroo7, when you get a chance a photo would be good, no hurry as I have to wait on the parts.
What is a good brand of thermal epoxy?
Is the 21mm contact plate epoxied to the 19mm driver?
Going to go with the driver gords recommended.
What led should I get, need one on a 20mm star, looking for maximum output first, then efficiency. Color is unimportant.
Kind of glad I fried the light, now I know what the inside of a pill looks like and future mods will be easier. The light is well heat sinked so I am going for maximum output.
XML U3 led on 20mm star.
I use artic silver thermal adhesive but I’m sure they are others that will also work. Don’t forget this will almost be a permanent bond so test it before you epoxy it in. Pic coming soon.
I’m not sure if you can make that driver fit maybe you can. You said the original was 22mm this one is 19mm maybe a 3mm difference. The reason I say maybe 19mm is this looks to be the same driver that KD sells and says its a 17mm but one of the comments at the bottom says they shipped a 19mm. Or is this a driver with a bottom plate and the driver is above the plate wired to the bottom plate.
They are quite a few drivers in this range. You might find something from here or use the one you listed above.
Here’s a few pics as promised.
This is a old 20330 DX driver I had laying around. Figured I use it instead of disassembling my light.
This is a pic showing the hole in the ground ring.!
!
Run the wire up from the bottom and let just enough protrude through so that you can solder it to that small hole ring.
!
!
Bend the wire around the outside of the ring up to the other end you soldered. This is when you need to test fit the driver to the pill. If the wire is adding to much diameter you can file or cut a small groove in the driver for the wire to lay in.
!
!
Once you get a good tight fit cut the wire flush with the other end of the wire you soldered and bend to contact.
!
!
Now you can solder the two ends together and your done. Now it should fit the pill firmly with a good conductive connection.
!
!
Here’s a side view.
!
!
Here’s a top view.
!
!
Sorry for the crappy pics. Good camera needed charged, so I used my phone.