LED Driver Schematic

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tivo532
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LED Driver Schematic

I’ve have been searching for LED driver schematic diagram but can’t find it.
Is it available in this forum?
Like for: AMC7135*8+MCU 2800mAh 5-Mode Circuit Board
Appreciate any help.

Edited by: tivo532 on 03/09/2013 - 22:49
MRsDNF
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Rufusbduck pointed his desciption out to me again the other day of this driver but I cant find it. I will get him to link it here.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

tivo532
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Great! Thanks. Will watch for it.
Also it would be nice to have a section in the forum where members can post their step by step mods. Beer

MRsDNF
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Do you mean like here or something else?

http://budgetlightforum.com/forum

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

tivo532
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MRsDNF wrote:

Do you mean like here or something else?

http://budgetlightforum.com/forum

Saw it! Yup! Exactly what I’m looking for, Will review some of the mods. Thanks.

Rufusbduck
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Here is a link to the thread, and here is the photo.


It’s weird that the image disappeared from the original post. I’ll try and put it back. I went back to the thread and the image was there again. I wonder if photobucket was glitchy. It took a while to go that far back in “my album” to get to that image.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

tivo532
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Very informative! One more thing, is there a circuit schematic available for this board?
Thanks!

Rufusbduck
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I don’t know but if you google 7135 and search the images you might find one. Post a link if you do and I’ll add it to my Anatomy thread.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

tivo532
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I did but can’t find a complete circuit for LED driver with Atmel 1035 and 7135.
I’m hoping somebody here may have one. Will keep looking. Will be a nice addition to your thread.

Rufusbduck
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What part of it are you tracing?

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

tivo532
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Nothing in particular but it would be nice to understand the whole circuit. Beer

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You know that all of the output pins(left hand pin) of the 7135’s are connected by a trace that runs underneath them and that they are turned on/off by the IC using the Vdd trace that is connected to all of the right hand pins. When turned on, current flows through the 7135’s from the output pins to the ground tabs(large outer tab, also connected to center pin) and back to B-. The only other parts on the boards usually consist of a reverse polarity diode, a capacitor that I think is for mode memory, and 2 resistors that I’m guessing determine low voltage point.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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The duck nailed it. Very simple schematic. If I get a chance I’ll draw one and post it.

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tivo532
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relic38 wrote:
The duck nailed it. Very simple schematic. If I get a chance I’ll draw one and post it.

That would be nice Relic.
Thanks Rufus for the info.

relic38
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Here is a schematic for the NANJG 105C. Let me know of any errors or omissions and I’ll update the pic or add corrections to this comment.

Notes:

  • When looking at the battery side of the driver, the stars are number from right to left.
  • +Vin is the spring in the middle, -Vin is the ground ring on the edge of the driver.
  • R1 and R2 form a divider for battery level measurement and power cut detection.
  • D1 provides reverse batrery protection for the MCU, reduces the incoming voltage (driver rated to 6V in, MCU is 5V max), and prevents the capacitor C1 from being discharged by anything other than the MCU.
  • The 7135 chips are controlled my MCU PB1 via their Vdd (Pin3).

I just noticed I didn’t label the MCU; it is the square 8-pin block in the middle, Atmel ATTiny13A.
EDIT: Updated image to correct issues mentioned below by sixty545, Thanks! Original imaged deleted.
Edit: Added rev protection note, thanks texaspyro!

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Rufusbduck wrote:
Here is a link to the thread, and here is the photo.
[snip]
It’s weird that the image disappeared from the original post.

I was going to say “maybe they took it down to correct it”, but just realized you may be saying that’s your image…

No offense intended, but did you notice the labels are wrong? E.g. “Input pad” is actually “LED (+)” and “Output pad” is actually “LED (-)”…

Just sayin’…
(If it’s yours, you could edit that…)

Other than that little niggle, thank you for an awesome effort! That’s what makes BLF so much better than any other possibility of a place.

Dim

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relic38 wrote:
Here is a schematic for the NANJG 105C. Let me know of any errors or omissions and I’ll update the pic or add corrections to this comment.

Notes:
  • When looking at the battery side of the driver, the stars are number from right to left.
  • +Vin is the spring in the middle, -Vin is the ground ring on the edge of the driver.
  • R1 and R2 form a divider for battery level measurement and power cut detection.
  • D1 reduces the incoming voltage (driver rated to 6V in, MCU is 5V max) and prevents the capacitor C1 from being discharged by anything other than the MCU.
  • The 7135 chips are controlled my MCU PB1 via their Vdd (Pin3).

I just noticed I didn’t label the MCU; it is the square 8-pin block in the middle, Atmel ATTiny13A.

I found two errors in the battery voltage detector section. R1 should be connected to MCU pin 8, VCC and R2 should be 4K7. The detection level in the MCU is 1.1 V

relic38
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sixty545 wrote:

I found two errors in the battery voltage detector section. R1 should be connected to MCU pin 8, VCC and R2 should be 4K7. The detection level in the MCU is 1.1 V


Good catch, my first draft had it this way, then my clean(er) copy has the error. I misread the value of R2 as well.

Thanks! I will update.

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DimBulb
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appears to be a linear current sink – there is no duty cycle term in the power dissipation equation.
http://www.micro-bridge.com/data/add/amc7135.pdf

Rufusbduck
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Dimbo The Blinky wrote:
Rufusbduck wrote:
Here is a link to the thread, and here is the photo.
[snip]
It’s weird that the image disappeared from the original post.

I was going to say “maybe they took it down to correct it”, but just realized you may be saying that’s your image…

No offense intended, but did you notice the labels are wrong? E.g. “Input pad” is actually “LED (+)” and “Output pad” is actually “LED (-)”…

Just sayin’…
(If it’s yours, you could edit that…)

Other than that little niggle, thank you for an awesome effort! That’s what makes BLF so much better than any other possibility of a place.

Dim


Your absolutely right and it makes way more sense anyway. Conventions have changed a bit since I labeled that image. At that time led- was often called the output pad and since led+ feeds the IC and is directly connected to B+ on the other side I labeled it input +.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Even if y’all can’t agree what’s right! Smile

So when people stack the 7135 chips for more power, they’re basically changing the chip to a higher level of output as though a different chip were used? How is it that the chips can be added seemingly without discretion, in whatever number is wanted to step up output?

Wouldn’t it be nice if there were a plug in module for the blinkies labeled “pull” so they could easily be done away with without affecting the other performance of the board?

This really helps me understand the throughput, and why it’s better to have a driver than use direct drive. Thanks again.

PilotPTK
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Dimbo The Blinky wrote:

Sorry to hijack this thread, but does C1 control mode memory on this driver?

No, It doesn’t.

Dimbo The Blinky wrote:

IOW, can I short C1 (or replace it with some R) to eliminate mode memory on a NANJG 105C?

Nope, that won’t do it.

Dimbo The Blinky wrote:

(Conversely and PERversely, increasing C1 to create “next-mode memory”…?)

Also, no.

PPtk

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By soldering the correct star to the ground ring, you can pick your mide group. One group is 3 mode hi mid low. Wink

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How do you know which star is which group? Trial and error?

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PilotPTK wrote:
No, It doesn’t.

Quote:
Nope, that won’t do it.

Quote:
Also, no.

PPtk

Argh! What I get for daring to dream. Thanks for waking me! Hijack deleted.

Dim.

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relic38 wrote:
D1 reduces the incoming voltage (driver rated to 6V in, MCU is 5V max) and prevents the capacitor C1 from being discharged by anything other than the MCU.

The most important function of D1 is to provide reverse polarity protection for the processor chip…

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DBCstm wrote:
How do you know which star is which group? Trial and error?

This page shows what the stars do:

http://intl-outdoor.com/amc71353-5mode-circuit-board-nanjg-ak47c20-p-596...

Woody

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DBCstm wrote:
So when people stack the 7135 chips for more power, they’re basically changing the chip to a higher level of output as though a different chip were used? How is it that the chips can be added seemingly without discretion, in whatever number is wanted to step up output?

You are paralleling current sinks so each chip will adjust its internal resistance so that it sinks its setpoint current – with these chips you can get integer multiples of 0.35A. For in between values you can shunt this parallel network of ICs with a resistor.

There is another issue and that is the ‘compliance’ of the current source.

gords1001
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Hopback wrote:
DBCstm wrote:
How do you know which star is which group? Trial and error?

This page shows what the stars do:

http://intl-outdoor.com/amc71353-5mode-circuit-board-nanjg-ak47c20-p-596...

Woody

What he said. Where ever you buy the driver should have info on star connection/mode selection. If they dont, buy elsewhere. The last thing you want to do is swap a driver and STILL be stuck with blinky modes unless you have to be.

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Thanks pyro for the rev protection note, forgot that little tidbit Wink
As for the mode selection, if you buy the two group version, the stars have no effect on functionality. Only the four group version uses the stars.

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PilotPTK
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DimBulb wrote:
you can get integer multiples of 0.35A.

Smile
PPtk

I am currently extremely busy with work. Please do not expect a response from me quickly. I will be dropping in as time permits, but the amount of time I can dedicate to responding to topics and PMs is very limited.

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