Simple Soldering temp guideline for beginner.

Here: Video - One Way to reflow a led to a star, using a soldering iron
I laid out solder on my sink pad just like OL did in his video. It was my first ever attempt, and it was easy. My iron couldn’t get the pad hot enough for a reflow, so I did it on the stove. That was easy too.
The trick is not to lay down too much solder.

i also have a weller wes51. you will like it. it is not overkill. i run 725 degrees F and works for most things i do. i cant remember the number on the tip i have but its the smallest/longest and i havn’t found anything i can’t do with it yet. the tip that comes with the unit is a little too big for the smallest work. just get in and get out as fast as possible. you may want to turn it down a little for stacking chips. i do need to crank it up a little to tin the solder pads on the copper sinkpads. i use 60/40 rma core solder with no problems, and rma flux. i always use flux when reflowing an emitter. and only use it on other things if the solder is being stubborn. and a good assortment of tips will help. like O-L said the radio shack tip tinner/cleaner, i feel is essential. i am always keeping the tip cleaned and tinned.

If you can dig up the number, or give me a link for the tip you use, it would be appreciated.

I use a 250 watt soldering gun to solder drivers to brass pills.

in addition to having more power to maintain tip temperature, it has more mass for storing heat.

These factors allow solder to adhere in one spot on the pill without the whole thing getting hot.

Flux is a great help especially if the iron's underpowered, though it helps with just about everything.

Driver to pill soldering is trickier, and flux usually does NOT help there. If you get the pill hot enough for solder to flow, all the components on the driver will slide off. You have to do it almost like TIG welding - lay the solder across the seam, then with the iron as hot as you can get it, drag the tip across the solder and hope it bridges the gap. Once you have it connected in one spot, the next spot goes a lot easier as you're mostly soldering to the solder you just laid down. It will be ugly, but if it's making good connection it doesn't matter. File or scrape it down to something that looks respectable and doesn't screw up the parts fitting together.

i have the ETO i really like, and also the ETP.

this a link to many more

http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/weller/tips/ettips.htm

If I am going to do a stock P60, I usually go ahead and solder around the edge of the empty brass first and then bridging to the driver is much easier. All you have to do is put some on the driver and just heat the solder already on the pill.

Harbor freight has em for 2.99 and 6.99

http://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-319.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/jumbo-helping-hands-with-led-lights-65779.html

If the solder balls up or forms mountains, it’s not hot enough. I’ll bet you’re trying to hurry too much. Remember that the iron heats the work, and the work melts the solder. I touch the tip to the joint, and leave it there steadily as I start dabbing the solder at the work, watching for it to start melting. The cold solder is sucking heat away from the joint, and it takes a little time for the iron tip to replenish that heat. Once the solder starts melting, you have to dab the solder and then wait for it to fully melt and flow into the joint. Don’t pull the tip away until the joint looks flat and smooth.

For a seam, you have to be able to combine the above technique with moving the tip along the seam. Trying to join pieces that have vey different thermal mass, like soldering a wire to a chassis or a star to a pill, is tougher; you have to dump enough heat in so that the bigger piece reaches soldering temperature.

The technique isn’t hard to master, but it’s easier demonstrated than described. Do you know anyone who can help with a hands-on demo?

Thanks everyone for all the usefull help. My problem seems to be solved.

Today my new Weller WESD51 Digital Soldering Station arrived and I can now solder like a son of a gun. Wow. What a difference. My old iron couldn't even melt hardened solder.

I built my first light today...it was easy. I feel like I could paint a picture out of solder with this Weller. Man oh man, soldering is fun. I tinned everything, it was like doing a watercolor. I don't care what anyone says, a good soldering station allows you to easily do jobs that a cheap iron cannot do.

Money well spent.

How's this look for beginner soldering?

+1,000,000,000

I say this every single time a soldering iron/soldering station thread comes up. I’m ALL about “Budget”, but when it comes to a soldering station, you get what you pay for.

PPtk

it looks damm good buddy, how do you like the Roche? I’ll bet its been bugging you it being so near yet so far. Nice job. 8)

I thought you would like that Weller. Your work looks pretty damn good.

Looking good! Congrats!

-Garry

Ouchyfoot, you just convinced me to buy a proper soldering station. I’ve been doing a few mods lately with a cheap soldering iron, and while I’ve been successful the soldering is pants, especially soldering vertically onto a mounted star. Is that the Roche F8? Nice, I’ve had my eye on that one for a while.

Ouchyfoot, as a first timer your skills already surpass those of 99.999999% of all those who live in china. GOOD JOB!

Thanks everyone for your patience.

I know it seems like "that ouchyfoot" has sure been asking a lot of dumb questions for the last few weeks, but I have been methodically picking you brains, and gathering knowledge from the best. I couldn't have done it without you, and this little baby.

I use a soldering iron that has 48W I believe, adjustable temperature and very often I run at 295°C/560°F. With a normal thin but not long tip. If I would use a longer and thinner tip it needs more temperature. That is for Sn63Pb37 1mm solder wire.
If you have something lead free etc. you might even go 305°C for normal operation.

Depends how well your tip heats up and holds the heat.

And remember to flux flux flux, it makes all the difference at least for me.
It’s so much easier to solder when both parts are covered in flux.
I have a flux pen/brush.

I run about 650F for leaded and lead-free… 700F for lead-free if the parts are loaded with thermal mass…

PPtk

I realize this is a very old thread but it seemed the appropriate place to post. I just completed a very simple mod on my L6,
and had trouble soldering the leads to the sink pad. It seemed I did not get it hot enough at first. With some time and cursing I managed to get it done. My question is when you solder the wire to the sink pad do most of you use solder paste or regular rosin core solder?
Thanx, Steve