How small are you? 3- mode Solitaire, some beam shots

Functionally, it’s no different from before so the drive current depends on the ability of the host to radiate heat and the physical space available. For example a AAA Minimag has a larger head for more fins and a longer tube for more chips. There may be enough room in a solitaire for 3 where I currently put them but without lengthening the battery tube or using a smaller battery, that’s the limit. 1A would likely heat up fast and since there is not enough space for a decent sink might not be good for the led.

I made a few more parts for the light.

Actually, it’s just the zoomie bits I wanted to show. The led fits inside the tube with the copper bottom which slides up and down in the other piece which is the extension for the head. It is long enough so that with the head screwed down, the lens pushed down on the end breaking the circuit(as with the original).

Still more to come.

Tested the driver with an xre I had lying around. Surprise, it works!
And since when “on” the pill will float I decided to try my hand at a DIY sink pad. I changed things around by desoldering the tube, reflowing the emitter(XP-G2 R5 3D) onto this new base and gluing the tube to that with AS-5 and filing off the excess plate.
I left a tag end if the awg 14 protruding to help anchor this part to the driver half. I’m getting a lot of reflection from the AS around the inside, it’s a bit tidier than this looks.
That’s all for a few days. I’ll need to make the brass fins before I do any more.

Btw, I used the fine tip on the wand with the heat turned up(400C) to solder the awg 26 Teflon wires to the pads. That tube is ~9 mm ID X 12 mm long. I filed a 10 mm round star down both in Dia and thickness to fit.

Next time I’m going to move the cap closer to the IC or directly between it’s last contact point and the ground plate.

I got to stay home one more night and made these.

The bolt is how I chuck the brass sleeve into the drill press. A hack saw blade screwed to a 1x4 block w/2mm of the teeth hanging over the edge and another block to raise it above the nuts. 1/2 crank per fin on the small ones and progressively more for the zoomie sleeve. Here’s how they look installed.

And

I think mum will be pleased and the delivery notice for the batteries came in the mail today so it and the Blues Bros will be shipping out soon. Everything works on the zoomie, modes etc and the beam comes to a fairly good focus(square die but with rings and artifacts). I turned the lens around and this smooths the beam out and virtually eliminates the rings. However, it is not quite as floody when all the way in. More like a spot to medium range. I have several of these lenses and I have one set up on the end of my “lathe” bolt with a sleeve to center it and I’m going to try and change the sphere radius and see what that does. The bezel is not glued on to the head yet and once it is there’s no changing this lens so I’d like to experiment while I can. Since this will change the focal length it will likely change the image at both ends but I need the data anyway.

I’ll post beam shots when I can show a comparison of the modded vs unmodded lenses.

Here it is again after about an hour and a half of spinning it on a file, various grades of w/d sandpaper, and turtle wax lens clarifying compound(brass sure polished up well!). I tried to match the former image angle to show the difference.

I’m not at home to check it out until Sunday evening.

Wow, you made it a zoomie as well? Thank you for the detailed pictures!

Must be nice to have such talent! It was all I could do to get a double board driver in the HD2010 and working, lol

Nice work!

The lights that he mods are so small

And the tiniest bits he'll install

Inspiration has struck

Our dear Rufusbduck

Whose creations will always enthral

Chloe, as long as I’m “prototyping” I figure I might as well try a few different ideas in one light rather than mess up multiple hosts. This used one I picked up on the cheap with another light on Fleabay so it made an ideal host for some new ideas. The driver works great and the zoomie mechanism works as well but the lens needs to be tuned to the length of the threads to get much change in the beam.

Thanks DBCstm. If by talent you mean a willingness to screw up and try again then I’m your man. I have a ziploc bag full of toasted 7135’s and more than one or two LEDs from learning to reflow. Some skills elude me still. I can’t say it often enough, I would be lost without my magnifying lamp.

Is that anything like the D Mag aspheric lens I’ve got laying on my nightstand? :slight_smile:

Yeah, we’d make quite a team creating Bar-B-Que electronics for the avid DIY’er. I’m learning though. You guys make me take leaps which of course creates more Bar-B-Que which then leads me to take more leaps…it’s an addictive sport for sure! lol

The difference is, you manage to pull it off and make it look good! :wink:

Edit: RufusBDuck, I hereby officially offer up my photography skills to better display your glorious work! :slight_smile: :wink:

Very appropro, like it! 8)

I like it Jack. The highest form of praise is not imitation but immortalization by Jack. DBCstm thanks but there’s a reason they don’t broadcast home improvement shows in HD. My work looks better to the eye than to the camera. The defects inherent in hand made work just aren’t as sexy as nice millwork. Believe it or not, I took several shots of each image using different lighting and selected the clearest for posting. Look for a pm if I ever get it right though.

I cheat, use a few thou worth of photo equipment! :slight_smile:

Pretty awesome stuff there. As I said before, you are the master of minuscule. I wouldn't even attempt most of that. Very intriguing.

I’ve seen your images. That’s not cheating, it takes skill, knowledge and a lot of work to do that. My qualm is that your skills would make my efforts look worse instead of better and my vanity is arm-wrestling my honesty for publishing rights. If you ever end up with one though, feel free to display it as you please.

OL, I don’t just do miniscule but I do like the challenge and if I can imagine a solution, I’ll probably try it. As you have said, it’s probably been done before but we can all try to add a new facet to the forum.

OL, I’m not enjoying the challenge as much right now.

Statements complimenting my competence seem to be undeserved. Stubborn? Damn straight!

Playing around with trying a different aspheric shape(reground to a smaller radius) I was getting erratic operation and then only high mode and thought “crap” there goes a driver and about 10 hours of work.

diagnosis: intermittent ground shorts from driver solder points to battery tube along with a short from led- wire to gnd(loose wire bypassing chips).

I desoldered the star and pried the two pieces apart and even unsoldered the led- wire came away with the led half instead of the driver half. Then came about 3 hours of painstaking work with an exacto knife carving away at Fujik. How can such a small amount make such a big mess? I cleared the chips and edge of the driver and used solder wick on my ground points then pulled the ground disc and chips off the IC board. More time scraping Fujik and then comes the fun part, relocating 3 smd parts further from the edge of the board. First up was the cap. I desoldered it, scraped the input trace clear of solder mask and removed a portion of the output pad along the edge of the board and resoldered it but this time right up against the IC. The input diode I was able to just slide over against the IC, again carving off any trace copper that might short to the battery tube. And lastly, the resistor. Since it is so thin I had hoped to just stand it on its end and solder it between it’s input side and the ground disc but it’s a bit longer than the height of the IC so I ended up soldering it to its input pad at about 30 degrees from vertical. The other resistor I just nudged one end a scosh. Now having cleared the edge of the board of any possible shorts I can resolder the led + wire and put it all back together, ground solder, Fujik and all. I also need to relieve the hole in the battery tube a bit more as the sleeve around the 7135’s was too tight. After all this I would not be in the least surprised if all those poor little smd components had en mass decided to pack it in but I’ll know when it’s done( I should wire this board straight to an led to see if the modes and memory work and get the optic sorted before I put it together again. Maybe, maybe not. This was all day before yesterday and I don’t go home ’til tomorrow night. I’ll post pics then of the changes I had made along side a similar board for comparison. It’ll be ugly but from more than a few inches away who can tell and who cares.

Holy moley. I would have ash canned the whole thing after taking a hammer to it, had that happened to me...

Kudos for having the patience and surgeon-like skills to fix it. The repair alone is almost worth another poem from our resident limerick pimp !

Repair notwithstanding, I haven’t decided what size hammer to use if this doesn’t work. In the past I’ve used a 20 oz waffle head framer for good aim but if I use an 8 lb sledge my aim won’t need to be so good.

I just make the basketball toss to the circular file. Every time I use a hammer something breaks off and hits me, which makes me even angrier.

Well my aim with an axe isn’t very good.