I've just used the same host to build a light using an XM-L U2 and Nanjg 101-AK w/ 4x 7135 chips at 1400mA; I think this is a good driver for this size of light; good brightness but not running the compact cells ragged like a higher-power driver.
My issue with the light was the reflector; it's a sloppy/loose fit that makes it very difficult to center properly on the emitter. Digging through my Pat. Pend. "Box o' Parts" tm produced a couple of these DX reflectors that were too wide for my F20 mod due to the outside threads...
...but which fit perfectly into the 602C host, MUCH better than the original reflector. These also work perfectly with the XM-L emitter. Now I have the option of interchangeable SMO/OP reflectors in this host.
I ordered this host today. I have a T6 3C emitter and a 4x7135 driver waiting.
I also happen to have a couple of those SMO reflectors here too. It’s good to have options
Keltex - that sounds like a sweet setup - Did you use the smooth reflector, if so how does it look? I remember those reflectors from your F20 build. I have gave away two of my F20’s one was stock with xre to a member on here and the other to my buddy and it had a xpg2 4c in it. Still have the F20 with the nichia in it though.
relic - thats going to be a sweet setup also! - was thinking of either replacing my XML 1A with another tint it is just to grey/blue or either buying another one (a buddy wants a 602c with battery and charger setup). Maybe a XML U2 2C like they got at FT but the dang thing only comes in 20mm. Guess could reflow it to another board but have not tried it on anything but cheap/used expendable leds…. Guess I need to get over the fear of failure and get’er done. I did destroy a brand new green XPE already…. :_(
I have carried this all but a few days since it has been built and dont really have any scratches or nicks or anything the anodizing is quite nice an tough! I carried my L2M for a couple of months and the anodizing was coming off already!
I think the XM-L U2 2C is what is in the EA4W. It’s a NW without being too yellow. The 3C tint is nice too, but now you’ve got me thinking about that U2 2C… hmm. I already have a CR123 sized host with 3c tint… I have an order in with FT right now, maybe I can add that in.
Edit: not seeing a U2 in a 2C tint at FT…
Edit: nevermind, found it.
Good news about the ano being tough too.
I started with the SMO but replaced it with the OP, and I will probably leave it that way for a while. The light's not a thrower in any way, so it really doesn't benefit from the SMO IMO. I like the OP reflector's smoother/floodier beam; it seems better suited for a compact EDC. I finally found the correct directions for jumpering the legs to make the 101AK driver 3-mode and this light is great now. A pocket clip would be a definite improvement though. The F20 will probably continue to be my EDC just because of the pocket clip.
I ordered 3 of these hosts from FT and got them in today…they’re pretty nice! not sure on the anodizing yet but looks/feels nice. my only complaint is that the pill is paper thin. the reflector is a little loose so I wrapped it in some aluminum tape that I use for p60s and the body heats up within seconds.
I am running an xm-l2 U2 with a nanjg 105c at 2.8A. I realize that this is way overkill but don’t plan to use it on high for more than a few seconds here or there…medium seems fine. these things are beasts! when I first finished it I stuck in a protected tf flame 16340 and it wouldn’t light on high…that’s when I knew it was serious. I put in an aw imr 16340 and its a blinding wall of light! it’s just a bit longer and wider than my eagletac d25c clicky…perfect edc size. this thing is nuts I might have to order a few more as cheap as they are
yeah I have 5 of those on order from io. they will go into my other 2 hosts I just couldn’t wait to build one. these little guys are nice! just be careful i think the io drivers are 3A right? these things literally get hot within seconds…need to try and add some more mass somehow.
and the tailcaps are so tight on them…I ruined a pair of nice ss tweezers trying to get it off. with multiple of the same lights I like to switch colors to tell them apart but mine feel like they have super glue or loctite in them :~
Guess when i get my programming setup running I can make some too. Got the clip on the way and then get a programer from FT. Dont how to write code though.
Well, you don't really need to know. I could give you the source or even just the binary files of the modes you want, or I could show you where exactly in the code to change the mode setups and percent brightness you want for each mode - that part is simple, no need to understand the "C" code for that. Dr Jones laid it out pretty well, and I edited it to make it more readable, for me that is. I do this stuff every day, all day .
where do you guys get the stuff to do it? i know a little bit of c but definitely not great at it…can you give me some links to the hardware/software that i need?
That big, extremely long thread on building a light with "perfect modes" by Tido (https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/744) has all the info, may take you hours to find it though . At work right now, can post or pm all the details. pm me if I forget.
Thanks for sharing. I am thinking of building a small nichia 219 light right now. This might be a good choice for me.
Now the problem is to find a nichia 219 on 16mm. Anyone know where to find it? Thanks.
I just bought mine bare from illumination supply and reflowed to a star myself. I couldn’t find one either but reflowing wasn’t bad (worked fine on my first try). just take your time and make sure everything lines up and check the data sheet to identify the anode and cathode
I practiced some reflowing on some old leds and on some that i might not ever use just incase i messed one up. Its pretty easy after a little practice. The only one i have messed up was on a green xpe that I was removing off of a 10mm board and the tweezers slipped and instant dedome and the wires ripped out too.
TomE got my clip in the mail yesterday and I am ordering the programmer from FT today with some other stuff I have been wanting. I kind of like that 2 group 2.8a driver they have also. Maybe with your guidance I can figure out how to write a program similar to it but better.
Have used them on the 10mm board before but they are a little bit of a pain since the board is so small and the contacts on the board are so close to the led but it can be done. I have one on a 10mm board in a UniqueFire F20 and it worked ok. This was before i ever tried to reflowing.
I'm 100% with reflows, nothing like de-doming . For the programmer clip, I had to replace the crimp-on connector because pins 1 and 2 were not wired (8 pin cable to a 10 pin connector) - I found i impossible to re-do without breaking it. For the replacement 10 pin connector (don't know there official name), cut off the existing one, crimped on the new one. You got 8 wires, and want pins 1-7 wired 1 to 1, then pin 8 of the cable wired to pin 9 of the connector -- this is all on the USB adapter end. The other end is easy - all the wires are simply push-on's, so you can juggle them around easily.
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