Thanks for the measurements. Well that’s bizarre—the black version has a larger tube diameter?? Why would they bother to machine a different tube for the outer coating? Unless it was outsourced and the manufacturer allowed some variance in the boring.
I do not have the light yet, but I'm sure the o-ring does not go around the threading (photo is wrong), but goes around the underside of the tir. When the bezel is screwed on it sits on top of the head part, not around it.
OK, so the white o-ring that came in the box is just a spare and is not needed on the threads.
Thanks djozz
Hi,
Oh. You’re right. That makes more sense plus answers my question (also matches RIC’s original drawing, I think):
I got two lights, and there’s one extra white O-ring, and a different number of the smaller black O-rings in the boxes.
Exactly. That's how I did it. This way the TIR is located slightly higher / further away from emitter, and it works! Plus the construction is still water tight, even more than the original. :)
Hi,
I got two of these lights, and, FYI, one of them, the black one, already had the O-ring in the right place. I only had to move it one my Titanium one.
Jim, please delete your post or picture so it doesn’t confuse people with the incorrect information. 
Great size comparison, thanks for the awesome pic
+1 to the above. It puts it in perspective very well. Thanks Suncoaster.
My black DQG 18650 with neutral T6 arrived today.
Initial thoughts:
*Very lightweight and small for an 18650 light
*Feels good in the hand. Nice size and quite grippy.
*Very nice beam pattern with good tint.
*The clip was VERY hard to remove. That sucker didn’t want to come off at all. I had to pry it off with a screwdriver. This caused a few scratches to the anodizing around the top edge of teh clip slot. Even though this isn’t a screwed on clip, if you use it for pocket carry I think there is very little chance the clip would come off accidentally.
*Upon receiving the light, the bezel o-ring needed to be reinstalled as it was in the wrong position. This was expected based on the earlier notice from Ric.
*The head turned extremely easily when I received the light. Close inspection revealed that there was only 1 o-ring between the head and the body even though there was a second slot. I grabbed one of the spare black o-rings from the box and stuck it in this slot to give much better tension between head and body.
*It is hard to reliably change modes without 2 hands. One-handed operation seems to often result in jumped modes.
*I haven’t tested it yet, but I doubt this light will work with flat top cells.
Done.
Do NOT attempt to use flat top cells in this light.
I just tried a Zebralight brand 18650 in it.
Not only did it not work, but the cell is now completely stuck and cannot be removed. I may have to toss this brand new light. YUCK!! :weary:
Try the taping to a hammer trick.
Whew!
I managed to remove the battery, but it was tough. I soldered a strip of tin to the end of the cell as a handle, then used pliers to grip the handle and remove the cell. It took some effort, but it worked.
After seeing so many that got good units I am a little irritated as if the first 100 were just rushed out the door. As stated earlier I have all kinds of little quircks with mine that many folks do not. I did replace the O-Ring as the diagram shows and it did fix the rings. The issue there with mine was as soon as I took my metal ring off the debris from the optics where if was forced together and ultimately crashed, fell into the optics. pretty irritating. I hope everyone else gets a good one. For now I will reserve further judgement till I get a reply back.
I may do one better and put together a video review to post on it as soon as I get time.
Slapped a quick video together anyway. As you can see in the video the Sanyo UR18650ZT do fit till they get 3/4 of the way down the tube where the machining is not complete. Also I show tapping the light to switch modes, it looks like I am hitting it hard somewhat but I am not. The noise you hear is the battery rattling around in the tube. Also if you look at the end of the video you can also see the white crush ring on the optics where it was crushed during final assembly I imagine. I did not take time to show the other issues or the debris in the optics from loosening the optics to install the O-Ring correctly. Like I said, I believe I may have gotten the lemon. i did post this on another forum but figured I might as well add it here as well.
Hi,
Where’s that 2nd slot for the O-ring? I don’t see it on either of mine… or may be I’m just mis-seeing it? Pic would be nice?
Don’t have one in hand yet, but to fix the bump-for-mode-change problem, could you reach down there with some hemostats or long needle nose pliers and stretch the spring a little? I imagine the mode change is coming from the battery bouncing just enough to break contact.
I’m glad I held of on buying one of these. Best to give it a few months so they can work out the kinks and produce a light that has gone through sufficient quality control.
I was able to pull the spring and stretch it a bit but it is pretty weak and it really didn’t do it much good. I also sanded the tube down to allow the Sanyo to slide in. The light will not allow any of the protected cells 69 +mm in length as well. They are too long. That leaves out the Panasonic and Sanyo 2800+mah protected batteries it was originally said to be compatible with.