Making Nichia 119 mcpcb - THE EASY WAY!

He cut a ditch ...Thermal goes thru the other two solder connections/ the contact to the heatsink.

looks 100 times easier than two copper strips .

My guess is Dons engine paint idea is next

Fasttech has another obvious answer

http://www.fasttech.com/products/1/10004569/1350300-25mm25mm-3m-insulation-thermal-adhesive-tape-20-pa

http://www.hightemperaturetapeindia.com/thermal-conductivity-tape.html

Hi, new member here :slight_smile:

Can this mod also be done with copper sinkpad and 119?

Should work just as nice there.
Ill try with a Noctigon some time… Ill try a drop of fujick into the trace/traces that were cut.
Should improve heat transfer a tad, and also make it more short circuit proof. Ill assume it will handle the heat when re-flowing, not 100% sure though…

I looked up the Noctigon seem to be same as the sinkpads.
This is good news as I still have a few 119 samples left and couldn’t find a good copper base.

Thanks RaceR86!

I built up two today, using this method. I used an Xacto knife to scrape off the center pad, leaving behind the dielectric layer. Basically the same result, with a different method. To be honest, I was too lazy to go (20 steps) to the workshop and break out the Dremel :stuck_out_tongue:
I put one in a C3 that has been sitting around for a while waiting for a change. The result is a ringy high CRI beam. I think I need to adjust the emitter height, or swap the reflector (has an XM-L reflector right now).
The other went into a BBQBuy SK68 clone. The pill was solid, so the star has a good seat. The beam is near perfect, although the output is a little lower than the XP-E it replaced. The tint is waaaay better. It has a nice smooth flood with great color rendition.
I have three more 119 emitters on hand. I have some small hosts kicking around that might get a high CRI upgrade. :slight_smile:

bit of an old thread, but I was wondering what peoples views are on the tint with these 119s from FT? I’m thinking of building a cheap light bar for my garage/ workshop with a 3-5x1-2W 110V driver (any ideas on that front?) and these would be a great option.

They’d also work well for small closet lights too, another thing the wife has been bugging me about :slight_smile:

Tints are subjective, but I really like the tint, its WW but not super warm. Its not that yellow/orange looking as the typical 3000K Cree emitters. Color rendering is good.
I like it. They are so cheap that you might as well just buy one and try out it, buy in quantity if you like them…

They are a quite nice tint, warm but not overly yellow. I have bought 10 so far (I get them five at a time) and have plans for them in flashlights and other projects.

sweet, thanks guys! I have a couple of WW XR-Es that are just too yellow for me, so knowing that these are not overly yellow is a big plus. I might as well get 5 and have a play :slight_smile:

did the reflow last night after cutting out the centre thermal pad on my XP-G stars (10 for $1.xx from FT!) and it worked a dream. I could even grind off the copper trace but leave the dialectric layer intact. All 5 lit up fine, now I just have to make the light bar. Thanks RaceR86!

coming from the giveaway thread (big props for that) - how did you get the pill out? I have an XP-G2 5B from FT coming that I wouldn’t mind sticking in the M5 that I have to try out. Do you press it out from the front/ lens?

Glad to be of help mattthemuppet. :)

The head on the M5 is a 2-piece design. Just unscrew the front of it to accesses the emitter. There is no pill making heat transfer very good. Pictures in this review done by djozz.

you know, I even read that review and still didn’t remember :oops:! Thanks for the reminder. Should make it an easy swap. Or I could just put a 119 in there like you did, as I have another 10 coming :slight_smile: Hopefully I’ll get time tonight to put the ones I already have on stars into their lights. I’m looking forward to checking out the tint, especially compared to the pus yellow XR-E I have in a work light.

managed to complete my garage light build the other night and I’m really impressed with the Nichia 119. The ones I have are more NW than WW though, at least compared to the yucky WW XR-E (bletch) that was in my desk/work light and the CFL in there. I’ll have to compare it to the Nichia 219 and XM-L2 3C torches I have. Still, I’m very happy with them, so a big thanks for the star making tip!

As soon as I’ve glued on the LED-DNA optics (bought a bunch of 10, 25, 45 and 60deg ones for 34c each!) I’ll post a build thread.

I have tested this method and it has superb thermal transfer…

Just glued copper shim on a piece of aluminium, under one side kapton tape then I soldered it on with a bit of flux and 400°C soldering iron not beautiful but it works good.
Can’t wait for my other emmitters to arrive…

Nice werner.. Reminds me alot the more "fiddly way" I did here though..

What are you going to use it for?

Lol I first cut a piece of copper too but it was so soft it bend and then I looked around and saw this copper shim… was very fast to build as everything is self adhesive.

I plan to use it in my closet,I have a pir sensor light which will detect when I open the door to switch it on….

I have some ledstrips laying around but these are so ugly blue I wouldn’t find the right trousers….

:)

Cool..

I recently scored some Nichia 119’s… offered here for cheap: Nichia 119's for cheap (also Cree XLAMP-7090's)