Wow! Great job and great progress. That is going to be a truly amazing mod
So I put the pill in the head and glued in the threads. Tested it with my DMM on an AW Protected 14500 and get .05A Low, .65A Med, and 2.16A on High. Reasonable numbers for that cell, and probably better for the emitter than 3A.
Edit: How about .05A Lo, .75A Med, and 2.51A on Hi with an Efest 10440 cell. 
Awesome, awesome, and awesome! I’m impressed by everything, but the threaded connection is particularly sweet. Keep at ’er!
Much appreciated.
Wow! Great job centering the parts. I feel your pain, many’s the hour I’ve spent sanding and filing but that’s what hand work is. :~ I see the finger saving drill powered sanding reamer there. A lifesaver if you ask me. :bigsmile:
I hope people dont get sick off me saying amazing. I love your way off thinking outside the square with your way off threading this light together. This is coming together very nicely for you Arn, sorry, DBCstm. Your right. It is drink oclock. Cheers again.
Bullseye! You’ve really nailed this.
Still have a few details to nail down, but I think I’m about there. Had to order some Efest IMR 14500’s to power it, as they’re 8A capable and should easily provide what the 3.04A driver is asking for. Found that an Intl-Outdoor 14500 Protected cell won’t even run it on high, it downshifts and blinks a few times then remains on Med. I hadn’t seen a Q-Lite blink like that before and it threw me, finally figured out what it’s trying to say….“Feed Me!” lol
That bullet is an awesome piece o work! I’ve always heard that the .50 BMG could easily shoot holes in a car engine. I now know why. The core is steel. A nice thick copper layer to protect the rifling in the barrel, with a steel core inside. Yeah, I bet it penetrates just about anything!
I needed to cut off the end in order to attach a copper plate to a) secure the bullet from coming out and b) to solder a spring to for the neg connection. Cutting into it sparks started flying and I knew immediately the core wasn’t lead but instead, steel. Gave me trouble yet one more time but it’s all done now. I decided to make it a twisty, so I had to remove some brass from inside the upper portion of the casing, and trim down the threaded insert so that there was no contact. I grooved the area that started out as compression fit in order to be able to glue it in with JB Weld. What I’m hoping is that I got it centered such that there’s no continuity between the threads. If I did, the shell casing itself will be the switch, a very slight turn to separate them and the light is off.
I guess I’ll know if I got it right in about 6 hours, when the epoxy sets up. This is the worst part, the waiting.
Some are tungsten… or depleted uranium…
Some are tungsten… or depleted uranium…
Just be glad it wasn't a tracer or incendiary round lol
It never occurred to me that it could be a tracer. That would not have been good. But the core was visible and as I recall it would have been obvious, not a smooth metal showing in the copper jacket.
At any rate, yes, I’m glad it wasn’t a tracer. The whole build turned out really well. I managed to isolate the male threads in the upper casing, such that connection is made and the light is on when the two pieces are screwed together. Didn’t manage to make the bullet a clicky, but there just wasn’t space as the battery came all the way to the taper. A shorter cell could be used, but a 14500 has minimum capacity as it is…perhaps 15 minutes if I’m able to pull close to 3A.
Just need to do some finish work to make the pieces mate better after the cut, polish it up and take some pics. This has been quite a challenge, but rewarding and fun at the same time.
Good job! A clever idea and you made it work. Just under a month left and I’ll need it all!
that finished light makes me horny!
I'm seriously impressed!
Keep up the god stuff!
What's next?
That is incredible work and so damn nice! Well done sir! slow clap
That looks awesome. Love it. :D
That looks awesome. Love it. :D
I got it all done, polished up and took it outside for pictures. Took a battery with me to get shots of it “in action”… and it wouldn’t work! Blink blink blink, it’d come on in high and in 3 seconds go to low and blink. Of course, it was all glued up. But sometimes fortune smiles on the lucky, the glue I used in the “head” portion was an electrically conductive glue from Radio Shack, hardly glue at all really as it dried brittle. So that allowed me to pull the threaded insert and have a look at the driver. Ended up cutting the wires as the heat sink/emitter would not come out. I used another driver, soldered it’s wires to the short wires coming up out of the copper heat sink and sealed the joints with shrink wrap. Put it back together and all is well. This time I put the threaded insert in with JB Weld, none of the thin stuff that probably shorted out the driver. So if I have to take it apart again, it’s not going to be pretty! lol
Head is curing, functioning pics will have to come tomorrow.
It sure is pretty, love polished brass and copper!