LED Cree Q5 Magnetic Control Switch Flashlight Torch (noname) - 1st impressions

Yes, and the dmm shows no changes at all, not even a short -0.00.

EDIT: Using the correct dmm jack (not the 10A unfused one) I get 19mA. So it's not a true off.

Check it in a pitch black room. It might be an ultra low low where you can look directly at the diode. I don’t think I would ever trust that ring to turn the light off anyway. That’s what the tail switch is for.

Is the colour mismatched as seen in the pictures, with the battery tube and cap black and the head being a little brownish, redish?

No, pure darkness.

Yep, that's what I meant with "color combination". It pretty much looks exactly as in the pictures, not better and not worse.

The performance of this light is really great, I'm going to order the 16340 version, too. I really hope that one will light up in low mode, because that's the biggest con for me with the one I have.

Glad you liked it. I too ordered mine from BIC but still waiting for it to land. This will be my first magnetic ring light and the cheapest 18650 one was a Naithawk for $50. Glad all solved for <$15 :)

19mA!!! omg - that means theres only 100 hours (or 4 days battery life in the off state for an 18650 2000mA, or 1 day battery life in the off state for an 16340?

The nitecore D11 (known for ridiculous parasitic drain, measures in at 3mA draw in the off state)

The 120P uses 50uA (0.05mA) in the off state.

Also wondering how you feel about the strobe/sos between low and off?

Good to see magnetic type torches hitting the market now.

It's still got a physical clicky switch for a true off, though.

click....zero

I got one and hope the emitter is easy to change. I'm not really a big fan of cool blue lights.

Cool blue it isn't. It's a rather nice cool white with just a tiny hint of blue. In fact it's one of the better tints I've seen in budget lights.

The pill gets out easily and emitter swapping should be very easy.

Something like this should fit.

Vectrex, did you work with one of these? I had some of them, but I ended up unsoldering the emitters of all of them. I don't like them at all. The solder joints are just too damn small imo. Even if you manage to get a solid joint, it will break from the smallest pull.

Sorry guys, the star size is ~16.5mm, I missed 5mm.

A friend did solder it into place, but he said that you have to have a fine soldering iron suited for delicate works.

Real Clicky!!! now THATS a real turn off.... oops.. on... um yes... ok ! so parasitic drain is not relevant anyway! sweet.

*lol looking at pics... wonder how I missed that GITD button? haha i guess its soo common its just the norm?*



Does anyone's start on low? mine doesn't either, which is kind of annoying because you literally cannot use the light monentarily on low, since you have to go to medium or strobe and switch back.

Speaking of which, with a few tweaks, this would be a perfect BLF light. The quality on mine is quite good. If they just put the off next to low (or just fix low) and use a neutral emitter, they'd sell tons.

Yep i agree, tint especially.

Anyone have a clue how to adjust the mode sleeve? One of the 4 I've bought had been working fine then got off track somehow. The detents don't match the modes. When the ring clicks into place the light goes out. In between detents the modes are activated. I've tried removing and reseating the pill several times but it's always the same. No clue why this is doing this.

They are offering me a $10 refund and letting me keep the light. I would consider this if I knew how to repair it otherwise I would try to get a full refund from them at the expense of sending it back to China and waiting a long time for the refund or exchanged unit.

Where in the world they found the driver circuit which refuses to come on in the low mode when the voltage drops below 4.10 volt? That makes it pretty painful to use if you like to keep it in the low mode and use the tail cap switch.