I have to say I do love the small Olight lights. I have an S10 Baton and an M10 Maverick (Both use 16340s) and my S10 would have to be one of my favourite lights, amongst a collection including a TN30, TN31, FF4 etc. It’s build quality is superb, has massive output for its size, hidden strobe and is a clicky!
You sure? It looks like it’s constructed just like the S10, which was fairly easy to at least do an emitter swap.
On the S10, how to remove the bezel:
Get one of those rubber pads from the grocery store used to open stuck jars. Hold it in the palm of your hand. Use your other hand to press the bezel of the light into the pad and turn. The stainless steel bezel should come right off.
With the bezel off, unscrew the tailcap and insert a battery. Press the back of the battery to push the guts of the light out the head of the light. The lens and rubber lens retainer ring should come right out.
The reflector and pill should move forward a short distance and then stop. This is because the alignment tab on the side of the pill hit the bezel threads. A bit of the reflector should now be sticking out of the light. Grip it and unscrew. The tab should engage the threads and unscrew all the way out.
If you accidentally unscrewed the reflector from the pill, no problem. Reach into the light with needle nose pliers and unscrew the pill, or use something to lift the tab up over the threads to pull out the pill.
Once the pill is out simply unscrew the reflector from the pill. The emitter should be easily accessible and a standard 16 mm star should fit fine.
The S10 (and probably the S15 too) uses an ugly yellow-tinted lens. This is a significant reason for why the S10 has such a poor tint. I suggest replacing the lens with a different one without the bad tint.
The switch is soft rubber on the S10. My copy doesn’t have a positive clicking action, but my S10Ti does.
I took the S10 apart to swap the emitter and discovered that the rubber button operates a small, fragile, metal switch that is flexible. I ended up having to insert some copper between the rubber button and switch to allow it to operate properly. I read online that others have mentioned switch problems with the S10, so i’m hoping they have sorted the problem with the new Blue switch of the S15.
Also, do you have a Zebralight SC52 to compare to the S15?
This switch feels good.. no problems yet.. except for the moon mode, when I click the switch too fast to Turn it Off, it turns on again.. I have to click it a little longer.Its a matter of milliseconds.
I'd love to pick one of these up one day. I'm a huge fan of the Olight Baton series and have an S10 & S20. I prefer the S20 due to subtle differences in the UI and that the S20 has strobe where the S10 has a pretty useless SOS. It's safe to say that my S20 is my favorite all around light as well as my current EDC. I've tried other lights but keep coming back to the S20. Can't say enough good things about it.
Nice to see that the S15 has a hidden strobe instead of hidden SOS. It should be a great light like the S20 is. ;)
The LED appears to have the same greenish tint as my old version S20, but I only compared them for a few seconds, I’ll need to do some more comparison since that issue was suppose to be resolved on the 2013 models in this series. (Supposedly there was an issue with the AR lens coating)
Also the 2013 S15 has a slightly better UI than the 2012 S20 in that it is much easier to activate the (much needed) electronic lockout feature. (Hold down switch for 2 seconds, as opposed to cycling through all the modes 3 times for the older version)
Thanks Olight for improving on this series. Now please exchange my 2012 version S20 for the 2013 model with improved switch, improved UI, higher output XML2, and better tint!!!
Same head size is a good thing. It means it can use the fantastic Xeno e03 wand, although you'll want to remove the clip if you're going to use the wand a lot.