cool - thats fine i wont have money for about 3 weeks anyways hehe… that hd2010 200k mod sounds cool too
Littte off topic, here's the last HD2010 I did, and I'm thinking, if this was a U2 1A from KD, these #'s could have been better with a real U2 1A or 1C. Wish I had tracked vendor sources of the LED's to the lights I built...
lumens: 1,149 at start, 1,125 at 30 secs, throw: 200 kcd (894 meters) — all on a fresh KK ICR 4000 cell
It just barely made 200 kcd measured at 4.3 meters, so may be 205-210 kcd if measured from a longer distance of 10-15 meters. I think it came out pretty well, really right there where I expected. The light’s body is clean and I like the look in black. Summary of mods:
- UCL/p lens
- XM-L2 U2 1A de-domed on a 20mm Noctigon copper star
- Nanjg 2.8A, added 4 7135’s to bring it up to 4.2A
- 3 copper discs of 18 gauge, 5/8” diameter added for heat sinking to the pill
- brass ring added for mounting the driver, press fit in, dremel’ed the pill to fit
- both + and – springs wired with copper to reduce resistance
- Nyogel on threads, special pricey thermal conductive grease used on pill threads
- Please note the pill is intentionally loose – if it’s full tightened, the emitter sits too far out of the reflector, resulting in much lower #‘s. So if for whatever reason you need to take it apart in the future, count how many turns it takes to tighten the pill down, and re-seat it the same way. Though it’s not tightended down (screwed from the reflector side), the reflectorr sits on it very tightly — must keep the bezel tightened well, and with the expensive grease, both thermal and electrical conection to the pill is strong.
From the owner:
Tom, my flashlight came in on Friday but I didn’t get to play with it until sunday night when I got back home from vacationing with the family and man am I impressed! THIS THING IS INSANE! I think I told you before that I have an LED maglite, and I thought that thing had some power, NO SIR. This HD is FREAKING UNREAL! And talk about how great the flashlight looks just sitting there. Man I am blown away! I honestly didn’t expect this thing to be that powerful.
I played around with the modes and you were right; I really like them. The cycle through is cool with the half click, or if i cycle full clicks fast, but has memory to where if i let it sit for a while, itll stay on the last mode I had it on.
cool! pm sent about the hd2010
the only c8 i have right now is the supfire x5 which i swapped the emitter to a nice xml2 t4 80 cri… it still has the stock driver which gets around 2.2-2.5 amps on high… dont think having a 3 amp driver would make a huge difference, but it would eliminate the strobe modes
been debating the new c8 v4 from intl outdoor for a while now
K - can't go wrong with a XinTD C8 v4 - I got one stock, and an older v2 mod'ed. The X5 I mod'ed was sold/traded, and actually I got a stock one - sitting, waiting for another mod...
i just got the x3 today i think it needs a v4 c8 for a buddy lol.
I got the X3 too, so it has twin brothers 
. I'm really liking the warm tint of the 6A1, but I'm think'n it's a real nice little thrower as well, so want to beef it up - the kcd # was pretty impressive, considering it's a T3 on alum and at 3 amps.
i went with the cool white myself on the x3
i just ordered a c8 v4 with the t4 80 cri 
I’ve got to get me a hd2010 to play with……more to the point, I need to have a play with my light meter, want to see what my l2 is doing before I go full retard on it and its twin…….
I too got an x3 hi cri……mrs gords loves it as a bedside/spotting light, its the first one she’s taken an interest in, guess she’s a tint/hi cri snob, who knew? I’m now wanting to get “her” an xintd c8 v4 same driver/emitter as the x3, I’ve put it off for too long.
Worryingly, I have a supfire m6 inbound, I’m already looking at hi cri xp-g2’s on copper for it, I figure a doctor Jones driver and two 3.1a slaves to match should be good in there……I’ve not even got the damned light in my hands and I’m already modding it lol. And that’s ignoring the small pile of cheap lights I already have to mod, this place is a bad influence lol
I know, i know, but still, it’s interesting to see C8 stuffed with SST-50
although SST-50 works better with 2 or 3 cells…
I have on order one of those noctigon MTG2 on 20mm copper that I am going to swap into my worst C8. It should run off two IMRs, gonna try that.
Wow - that sounds awesome, but what you doing about the driver for the 6v output?
at least you have the skill to do all that yourself… i usually end up breaking everything i touch unless its a simple emitter swap
me??? ? I’ll give it a go I guess, need to clear the mod bench before I start fron scratch.
I only got the light meter to do numbers with tom, it might be pointless lol
I’m in complete agreement with that sentiment, so much so that I do not plan to buy any more than the 4 I have bought so far.
You sir are one of my suoer hero's , I hope to get to that stage soon 
I’m just going to direct drive it to keep it simple. I’ve tried an MTG2 P60 DD before off 2x 16340 IMR so it should work. I’ll make another thread if the whole thing comes together.
I made some measurements and calculations to get the total mating area between pill and housing of my C8, C12 and XinTD V3. Surprisingly, the C12 with it’s larger pill and more threads had the least! The narrower flange and sloppier threads are to blame. Keep in mind, the area actually making contact is going to be less because of the typical surface imperfections. The 2mm wide flange contact only left a 1mm wide mark on the C8 so, in reality, the C12 is better but with a TIM, the C8 wins. For comparision, I added a the approximate area of a 20mm star. The C8 and C12 are from DanceLite.
C8 _ 220 mm²
C12 186 mm²
XinTD V3 262 mm²
20mm star _ 250 mm²
Looking forward to seeing your results!
Hi Tom.
Previously I was only getting 29kcd until I tried a different battery from a laptop pull. This is a CGR18650DA and getting around 40kcd on a XM-L2, 12x7135 and Nitro sink pad.
What value were you getting before de-doming the LED?
Both springs with wires (instead of braided wire). What other mods I can do in addition to de-doming to get close to 100kcd?
Before de-doming, about 45 kcd, one as high as 50 kcd. I always use a UCL or high qual AR lens. So, you have a 4.2A Nanjg (assuming 350's) - are you measuring 4.2A at the tail? If not, you need a better, lower resistance cell. best is Samsung 20R, but a 20Q or Pana PD, or SONY 30A may achieve it or come close. When you are over 3 amps with a Nanjg driver for an XM-L2/copper, you need a low resistance cell.