Review: TrustFire F15-T6

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trooplewis
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Betting on the 980L is like betting on an incredibly fast horse who you're just not sure if his legs will make it through the whole race.

Rats, finally sold my 2010 509hp Mustang...now I can buy more lights!

Sold the red one too! Now guess what I drive, doing my penance for 500 hp commuters...

http://dreammustang.com/

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac47/Ha

JohnnyMac
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Be-Seen Triker wrote:

We should add an XM-L C8 into the mix just for S&G's.

Absolutely!
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oldbobk wrote:

I just ordered one of these, plus the SMO reflector. I've debated for some time about the 980-L, but decided I wanted the bright light.

                                                                                                                                              Bob K

What did you order, Bob? The 980L or the F15?
trooplewis
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I hope mine doesn't say Johnny Mac on it when it comes in.

 

Rats, finally sold my 2010 509hp Mustang...now I can buy more lights!

Sold the red one too! Now guess what I drive, doing my penance for 500 hp commuters...

http://dreammustang.com/

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac47/Ha

JohnnyMac
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trooplewis wrote:

I hope mine doesn't say Johnny Mac on it when it comes in.

LOL! It might or it might say "from Dibbles with love, HappyFathers Day 2011" which is on the other side. She gave it to me early since i couldn't wait. Smile
jamesearljonesi...
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i opened up the pill today and the led die is attached to a round plate with thermal grease and tht plate is then thermal greased onto the aluminum heatsink. I stuck a rigid wire in the hole and pushed the driver/holder down from the top. so mine is not screwed in but snapped into the aluminum heatsink through the bottom. when i tried to turn it led from the top i severed the wires and saw that it was screwed on. simple fix but will probably get some thermal adhesive. will try to take pics later.

 

03/04/16 

 

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agedbriar
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I hope it doesn't, because I'm waiting for more reports. I've been also promised a reply from Manafont regarding the chance of having F-15 lights in SMO version soon, so there would be two SMO reflectors to choose from. Wink

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From Johnnys pics on top hes got a red driver board while the one i got was a green one. dont know if theres much difference but mine does flicker on low when the battery voltage gets lower. after opening the pill and severing the wires i figured ill try this XML on my sk68. i soldered the led to the sk68 stock driver and it is much brighter on 14500. i got 1.56amps on a partially charged battery. after putting an oring spacer to show a clear die on spot mode, its basically a big bright square which throws quite far. maybe a better driver with more amps but the sk68 is so small im not sure if it can handle the heat. its just fun shining a small light projecting a square beam where you can see the whole beam from the lens to where it is shining.

03/04/16 

 

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KDLST
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Nice review! I can't wait for the comparison although i do have to admit that i want the F15 to win... Why? Because it's cheaper...! :d
JohnnyMac
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KDLST wrote:
Nice review! I can't wait for the comparison although i do have to admit that i want the F15 to win... Why? Because it's cheaper...! :d
Honestly, no matter which comes out on top they are both winners. I happen to like the looks of the F15 over the 980L except for that awesome tailpiece the 980 has. That and the extra feeling of reliability I have with the F15 makes it worth having a few less lumen that won't be noticed anyway unless you had both in your hands at the same time.
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This is awesome.  So far, in this thread at least, it seems the F15 is favored.  Yeah, baby!

digsthisbigtimeFoy

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okyeung
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So when will the big face light off.  Could we have 3 contestants, F15, 980L, and kd C8, fight to the death.  Wink

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Foy
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Well, I own a 980L and have ponied up for an F15 . . . might be pushing my wife's patience to the edge if I bought a C8.  (although it looks pretty good at $26 - I am tempted but . . .)

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Match
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How is this contest going to be judged, hotspot only?  Might need a lux meter then to accurately tell or I.S. for lumen output.  Or will it be based off of beamshots? From looking at both sets of pics this will be very close.

Is it too late for me to make an entry? Wink

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Might as well add the Trustfire X8. then take all the lights combined against Match's entry.

We know how thatll turn out.Laughing

03/04/16 

 

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jamesearljonesi...
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Can't wait for this shootout foy. Im really looking forward to see how the MPP does.

03/04/16 

 

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JohnnyMac
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Match wrote:

How is this contest going to be judged, hotspot only?  Might need a lux meter then to accurately tell or I.S. for lumen output.  Or will it be based off of beamshots? From looking at both sets of pics this will be very close.

Is it too late for me to make an entry? Wink

I would go for simple beamshots against the ugly wall. Strictly an eyeballed comparison.
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Would be a hell of a lot easier.  I do tend to complicate things unnecessarily.Undecided

 

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Foy, I think you still have time to build Match's lumen sphere.

Piers said " ....but who wants enough light, when you have the option for far too much "

Foy
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I know I do and his instructions are so good . . . just need to dive in.

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Langcjl
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I would love to see how the Trustfire TF with manafont three mode XML pill would stack up here. Given Match's new figures it seems that the BAR is what is really making these lights pop vs. P60. (big ass reflector)

Piers said " ....but who wants enough light, when you have the option for far too much "

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For throw I have a masterpiece pro 1 in the mail. I am hoping it comes today. You know how that usually goes. BAR is the way to go, R2 or XML.

Piers said " ....but who wants enough light, when you have the option for far too much "

Vectrex
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BTW... are TIR optics already on the market, that are calculated for XMLs?

Match
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Vectrex wrote:

BTW... are TIR optics already on the market, that are calculated for XMLs?

Carclo lists TIR lens's for the XM-L, which happens to be the same ones they recommend for the xp-g.  Personally I've gotten better results with the Carclo lens that was designed for the MC-E.

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Shouldn't the radiant flux vs. angle graph from cree tell the whole story?

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I got my F15 today, thought I would make a couple observations.

1) The body looks better than my other C8 bodies due to the stainless, I like it. Annodizing and finish was very good, threads were a bit dry, but seems like I have to lube every light I get

2) I removed the OP reflector and replaced it with the SMO that came in the same order from MF. They are the same size, but the SMO reflector has a bevel underneath the upper (large) lip of the reflector that will have to be worked on a little, not quite a perfect fit because it does not sit down flush on the top edge of the head.

3) Once I put the original OP reflector in place, I started getting iffy connections, the light would turn on then shut itself off. I thought maybe the reflector was pressing too hard on the emitter wires/soldering, so tried to remove the plastic cover, man that thing is on good. Turns out that the soldering on the driver is broken where it connects to the pill, only thing holding it in place is the pressure of the battery against the spring. Looks like I'll have to get a soldering iron after all.

I can keep the light working unless I crank the tailcap all the way down, then it blinks off. Unscrew it two threads, it comes back on. Too bad, because I like this light a lot.

4) I'm getting 2.3A on high at the tailcap (EDIT) with an Ultrafire 3000mAh battery. Swapped it out and put in a HI-Max 2600, got a consistent 3.1A at the tailcap.

Rats, finally sold my 2010 509hp Mustang...now I can buy more lights!

Sold the red one too! Now guess what I drive, doing my penance for 500 hp commuters...

http://dreammustang.com/

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac47/Ha

jamesearljonesi...
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trooplewis wrote:

I got my F15 today, thought I would make a couple observations.

1) The body looks better than my other C8 bodies due to the stainless, I like it. Annodizing and finish was very good, threads were a bit dry, but seems like I have to lube every light I get

2) I removed the OP reflector and replaced it with the SMO that came in the same order from MF. They are the same size, but the SMO reflector has a bevel underneath the upper (large) lip of the reflector that will have to be worked on a little, not quite a perfect fit because it does not sit down flush on the top edge of the head.

3) Once I put the original OP reflector in place, I started getting iffy connections, the light would turn on then shut itself off. I thought maybe the reflector was pressing too hard on the emitter wires/soldering, so tried to remove the plastic cover, man that thing is on good. Turns out that the soldering on the driver is broken where it connects to the pill, only thing holding it in place is the pressure of the battery against the spring. Looks like I'll have to get a soldering iron after all.

I can keep the light working unless I crank the tailcap all the way down, then it blinks off. Unscrew it two threads, it comes back on. Too bad, because I like this light a lot.

4) I'm getting 2.3A on high at the tailcap (EDIT) with an Ultrafire 3000mAh battery. Swapped it out and put in a HI-Max 2600, got a consistent 3.1A at the tailcap.

Just curious, what color driver board did you get? red or green? that plastics cover is just pressed on so it takes some effort to get off. the driver is also pressed on at the bottom. the led is just loose with thermal grease on a plate. I posted a pic on post#40

03/04/16 

 

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trooplewis
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JEJ, it is hard to tell what color the driver board is since I have  not removed the entire pill from the stainless steel. I think it is green. Yes, the driver is pressed in, but then it was soldered on two sides to keep it in place. Those two spots have broken on mine.

I have not tried much, but still have not removed the plastic around the emitter. It's on there pretty good, as is the emitter. Maybe it is just thermal glue, but it is glued on strongly, it does not move under lateral pressure.

Rats, finally sold my 2010 509hp Mustang...now I can buy more lights!

Sold the red one too! Now guess what I drive, doing my penance for 500 hp commuters...

http://dreammustang.com/

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac47/Ha

jamesearljonesi...
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trooplewis wrote:

JEJ, it is hard to tell what color the driver board is since I have  not removed the entire pill from the stainless steel. I think it is green. Yes, the driver is pressed in, but then it was soldered on two sides to keep it in place. Those two spots have broken on mine.

I have not tried much, but still have not removed the plastic around the emitter. It's on there pretty good, as is the emitter. Maybe it is just thermal glue, but it is glued on strongly, it does not move under lateral pressure.

when i popped off the driver it came off with that brass ring the driver is soldered to. maybe ill look at those solder joints to see if it fixes the flicker on low. if its glued on then thats good, underneath that heatsink is just free air between the driver but the material looks copper.

03/04/16 

 

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jacktheclipper
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Just ordered one .

Budget light forum.

This place has cost me more money .

( in my best Nick Nolte ) Aw , Jeez !

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