I’d say that “R2” is a diode, not a resistor…
This evening I was willing to mod the driver, plugged in the soldering iron and just in the meantime took a good magnifiing lens and a small flashlight to look at those tiny components.
R2 looks like has no numbers at all printed on it when looking by bare eyes, but upon closer inspection leaning the light side to side, I was able to see some very small lettering, looks like fine carving, not painted. There's a line side to side toward one leg, and "4S" in the middle. This lead me to think DrJones was right and that R2 actually is a diode.
(why then printing R for the diode? R for resistors, C for capacitors, D for diodes, S for schottky, no? Buh...)
Anyway, just for testing, removing that R2 diode results in disabling the modes, and light works in low only. Not very useful.
Going to add a resistor on top of the capacitor now (wish me all good, I'd never ever soldered something so tiny before!)
HOORAY!
I got it! 
Soldered a 1912 (19K, correct?) resistor on top of C1. It's the only resistor above 1K I got around, removed from a dead nanjg105.
I got lucky and now the East92 has a super-short memory wipe: quickly tap with the finger in less than half second, and it changes modes. Wait just a little bit more, less than 1 second, and it's always on high!
I love it now! So much that the planned driver swap with a nanjg (ready in case I fu**ed the east92) is not a priority anymore.
And the satisfaction of having soldered those damn tiny components is a great reward too. You should have seen (and heard...) me when in the process of placing the resistor in the right spot, it suddenly jumped off the board falling on the floor, literally covered with metal shavings and plastic dust (it's the same place I also have maintenance for RC models)
10 funny minutes spent in close examination of any dust with flashlight and tweezers... 
Well done Rockspider. Perseverance has paid off. Your floor sounds a little like mine. Do you think you would have a go at the low voltage drivers I have tested with next mode memory?
MrsDNF I answered to you on the other thread 
I'd have a go!
any ideas how to remove the next mode memory from this driver? :
Very similar (if not identical) to the driver in the SkyEye F13. See this post from relic38. Place said resistor over said capacitor.
-Garry
yeap its the same ,thank you.
and when i connected the 2 dots in the 0R i now have a 5 mode driver.
driver fixed now,i hate memory. (its a bit pain in the ass to solder some small resistors)
thanks again garry.
Could you please specify the mode change?
It adds medium and strobe
Which modes were there before?
Thanks for the information, never read that here…so if anyone has a link I would be happy.
I have seen this some times on drivers but never knew that there is a possible function.
Thanks for clarification, I have some 5 mode sk98 driver flying around in my parts box. I will look later if it had the 0R connected on stock…
as racer did above.very easy mod don’t need any spare parts.
I do not understand. Why not just remove the capacitor?
If you remove capacitor you will only have one mode, first mode that is programmed (in most cases MAX).
Because without capacitor the memory will erase in zero time. You will never be able to change mode. Like a single mode only.
I made some single mode but decided against the removing because i wanted the option to go to other mods, this was made with 22k resistor.
So I can borrow it to anyone all they see is high but with a very short quarter press I am able to use all 4 other modes if needed…