TomE’s super btu shocker. About 5000lumens and more than 400kcd throw. Beat rc40 in all ways!
Ouch… !!
If only we could purchase them in that buffed up state!
yups! exactly what i had it mind. Tom E modded super shocker would be able to take out the rc40.
the ff4 would do it as well.
theres also the clone of the rc40 (supbeam x60), but i doubt it will beat the original.
The one thing that I’m curious to find out is if the Vinh modded TK75 will beat or at least equal a stock RC40. The RC40 will probably have the wider flood. But as far as comparing lumen output and throw, it should be interesting. I personally would enjoy having the modded TK75 over the RC40 because of the flexibility. You could go portable or add extensions for longer runtime. I also prefer using widely available 18650 batteries over a proprietary cell. The FF4 will spank the RC40 in throw and lumens (better tint too) but the flood isn’t as wide. If you wish to stick to LED’s, you could get a BTU Shocker as people suggested and send it to Tom E. to amp up and de-dome. He reported that one of his latest de-dome mod had 467k in throw (in the same ballpark as a FF4) and 4100 lumens. I'm shocked by this Shocker... (de-domed now, more info)
467k in throw is nuts for a multi-emitter light. I’m rooting for you in your contest. Give us a report on your next challenge.
Tom E’s Socker doesn’t beat RC40, but kill RC40.
I’m saving up now and will duplicate Tom’s mod by myself next month, hopefully. 
For those wanting to buy a Shocker to mod, a good source told me RIC could offer the Shocker at a nice discount without emitters and a driver, even at qty 1. Dunno if he'd do it for everyone but it's worth asking...
Buy some, mod them and sell them, I’m sold for one
I am sold on the Shocker mod. I think Tom may be a little swamped with all the response to his great work! I will continue to check in with him and will purchase one when he feels the time is right. Maybe I should pay more than the asking price!!!
Mike 8)
Is he de-doming the Shocker? I have heard some “modders” report that you dont need to de-dome this multi emitter monster.
You do if you want that kind of throw.
Correct you don’t NEED to dedome the BTU to get impressive power.
Generally these are your choices with appx numbers -
Fenix RC40 Stock - 3500 lumens - 126k
BTU XML U2 Stock - 3000 lumens - 130k
BTU XML2 U2 Stock - 3500 lumens - 160k
BTU XML2 U2 on copper - 3800 lumens - 185k
BTU XML2 U2 on copper, IOS driver, 20R’s - 4400 lumens - 230k
BTU XML2 U2 on copper, IOS driver, 20R’s, dedomed - 4000 lumens - 467k
Wow that’s all the Fenix RC40 is putting out? Well then my J-19 mod smokes it too. Although I’m running it with a DRY driver. I tried the IOS driver that Tom is using and it freezes up on high if left on for very long. The DRY doesn’t and with the same size wire I got almost the same reading. Both are direct drive on High. I’m running King Kongs in the J-19. This is the SP03, Stock J-19 and modded J-19
Wow….big difference. When you dedome….does it increase throw at the expense of spill/flood?
Well you loose some flood if everything else remains the same. However as you can see from the pics you still gain flood when you increase the power to the emitters. So with a mod like Tom’s or mine you gain both flood and throw over stock and by de-doming you get a much more neutral tint. It goes from cool white to neutral. So de-doming costs you a few lumens but you gain by doubling the throw and a nicer tint.
From what I’ve seen when you dedome a light, you still retain the flood coverage. However it is a weaker & less usable flood. The reflector is generally what controls the flood area. The die itself controls the intensity of distribution in each area - flood to spot.
So basically when dedomed, you just move more of the lux into the spot area by remove some lux from the flood area.
Wait - this is all brand new stuff and experimental to some degree. the last Shocker I completed was the de-domed one and I could get 5.7A measured at the switch, but I'm not sure I got that high on the one with domes. So, it's possible with domes to get even higher lumens than 4,400 (I'm thinking), but understand this is all for a couple of minutes only. The 20R's are 2000 mAh so they drain fast at 5.7 amps, and will drop the amps pretty quickly too. Can't compare to the Fenix RC40 with a well regulated driver, 6 cells at 2600 mAh, and probably can maintain high output for pretty long in that 1.5 hours of runtime they quote on turbo.
Where the RC40 falls short of where it could be is 2600 mAh cells -- why not 3400's? and XML U2's and not XM-L2 U2's.
Very interesting thread.
I don’t like big fat flashlights but I will have to order this one and modd it with XP-G2 driven at 3A so I can use that for extended periods of time. And if your XM-L2 lux measurements are correct BTU Shocker should go well over 400KCD with them.
So I hope they will offer BTU Shocker host on CQG web shop?
edited because I answered my own question. My calculation were wrong.
Very true. The high amperage direct-drive setup with low mah Samsung cells does have its practical limitations. That combo does make a beastly light though. It’s pretty much along the lines of the 6.5A TN31’s and K40’s. Very fun to play with but not too practical.
Of course one doesn’t have to go with the Samsung & IOS driver to make a BTU very impressive. A BTU with XM-L2’s on Noctigons or Sinkpads on good thermal paste, running on Keeppower 3400mah cells will surpass the RC40 with roughly 10% in lumens and 30% in throw. The BTU will lack some runtime though with its total of 10,200mah capacity vs the RC40’s 15,600mah’s.
I personally don’t see carrying either of these big heavy lights around for over an hour, so the runtime isn’t an issue for me.
I can’t knock the RC40 really. It is a superior light bone stock vs a BTU. No question. It is appx 3 times the price though. And a bone stock BTU will pretty much match the RC40 in performance. A little behind in lumens and a little ahead in throw - basically a tie.