This will be my most powerful build yet. (12) XM-L2@3A

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
27

ooh, this’ll be worth watching. Props for pushing the limits :slight_smile:

Couple of points though - if the batteries are wired in series, each battery will have to provide the full current draw. So at 22.2V and 6A, each battery will be providing 6A. In series you add voltage and current stays the same, in parallel you add capacity (or divide current, same thing) and voltage stays the same.

I wouldn’t be scared off by the HBflex - they all take a bit of getting used to, but as long as you can count up to 13 (or 14?) it’s quite doable. If you know the settings you want, I can always write out a cheat sheet for you to follow if that helps.

28

if the batteries are in series, they will share the load I thought... or you must measure 6 Amps at the last battery.

But if you measure 6A on a parallel setup, all batteries will draw 6A...

or what am I missing

29

This is correct. A parallel set will give you more capacity (runtime) with same voltage amd current. A series setup will give you more voltage with shared current draw. Thats why when you add more batteries to a series the current drops. I am a noob I could be wrong. This is with my experience only.

Ken

30

Batteries = 3.7 nominal say 3000mah.

Six in series = 6*3.7v (22.2v) x 3000mah

Six in parallel = 3.7v x 6*3000 (18000mah)

Cheers David

31

you might be getting confused with the numbers, like when your calculating the input on a taskled driver. more series cells equals less amps into the driver. it’s less amps in only cause the voltage is higher but still the same watts. Sorry if i made it worse.

32

very nice flashlight but not very good pictures

you don’t have some more pictures with more details of this host?

I like the size of this flashlight but don’t like the number of batteries, 6 batteries are too much for me

33

Looks like fun. What are you doing for cooling?

34

Thats exactly what I was concentrating on was the current in. I didn’t even think of the wattage input. I think the closer I am to voltage input vs voltage forward the driver will be less stressed. Also minimal heat up.

Ken

35

Prestone. Hahaha! :bigsmile: J/K.

As far as the emitters, the head of the light will have to do for now. It does have a lot of nice fins and is solid.

The driver is cooled by forged copper squares with a smaller aluminum square wedged on it too.

Ken

36

I will get some more pics up this eve.

37

Contact plate

Driver assembly in front contact plate in back

Switch plate notice where I made the cut.

Switch plate contact side

Switch plate held in with 3 screws

38

If it is a driver that is a constant led current, more voltage will == less current.

However if the driver is pulling 6 amps at ~23 volts with 6 cells in series, each cell is providing 6 amps.

If each cell was only driving 1 amp, that would also mean 1 Amp at ~23 volts at the driver.

Think of each cells as a water pipe. 6 lined up providing 1 gallon per minute is still only 1 gallon per minute at the end.
6 in parallel doing the same will be dumping 6 gallons per minute at the end.

39

I got the LEDs today. Thanks to Matt (vesture_of_blood).

I got them lapped and bonded to the base. They are all wired up in series. I tried to keep the wires as short as possible. I will power them up maybe later tonight or tomorrow. I will start at a conservative 2.8A. :bigsmile:

Ken

40

Thank you! I am by no means a electronic genius. This makes is very clear and simple.

Ken

41

Wow guys…….

5520 lux at 5 meters.

138kcd

Un-f-n believeable.

Im completely shocked it did that well. The head gets hot real quick. After about 10 seconds I start to get scared. Lol. think I just built a 250.00 dollar 10 second flashlight. What a waste! :~

Ken

42

When is it too hot to hold?

43

I havent got it too hot to hold yet. I want to do some temp and battery current tests before I do extended run times.

Ken

44

Nice Ken. Love your mod. Need some night shots now. :wink:

45

ERMAHGERD.

46

My thoughts Exactly!