This will be my most powerful build yet. (12) XM-L2@3A

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moviles2
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very nice flashlight but not very good pictures

you don’t have some more pictures with more details of this host?

I like the size of this flashlight but don’t like the number of batteries, 6 batteries are too much for me

inanitydefined
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Looks like fun. What are you doing for cooling?

Hyprmtr
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Gtamazing wrote:
Hyprmtr wrote:
ChibiM wrote:

if the batteries are in series, they will share the load I thought… or you must measure 6 Amps at the last battery.

But if you measure 6A on a parallel setup, all batteries will draw 6A…

or what am I missing

This is correct. A parallel set will give you more capacity (runtime) with same voltage amd current. A series setup will give you more voltage with shared current draw. Thats why when you add more batteries to a seriues the current drops. I am a noob I could be wrong. This is with my experience only.

Ken

you might be getting confused with the numbers, like when your calculating the input on a taskled driver. more series cells equals less amps into the driver. it’s less amps in only cause the voltage is higher but still the same watts. Sorry if i made it worse.

Thats exactly what I was concentrating on was the current in. I didn’t even think of the wattage input. I think the closer I am to voltage input vs voltage forward the driver will be less stressed. Also minimal heat up.

Ken

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inanitydefined wrote:
Looks like fun. What are you doing for cooling?

Prestone. Hahaha! :bigsmile: J/K.

As far as the emitters, the head of the light will have to do for now. It does have a lot of nice fins and is solid.

The driver is cooled by forged copper squares with a smaller aluminum square wedged on it too.

Ken

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moviles2 wrote:
very nice flashlight but not very good pictures

you don’t have some more pictures with more details of this host?

I like the size of this flashlight but don’t like the number of batteries, 6 batteries are too much for me

I will get some more pics up this eve.

Hyprmtr
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Contact plate

Driver assembly in front contact plate in back

Switch plate notice where I made the cut.

Switch plate contact side

Switch plate held in with 3 screws

bdiddle
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Hyprmtr wrote:

This is correct. A parallel set will give you more capacity (runtime) with same voltage amd current. A series setup will give you more voltage with shared current draw. Thats why when you add more batteries to a series the current drops. I am a noob I could be wrong. This is with my experience only.

Ken

If it is a driver that is a constant led current, more voltage will == less current.

However if the driver is pulling 6 amps at ~23 volts with 6 cells in series, each cell is providing 6 amps.

If each cell was only driving 1 amp, that would also mean 1 Amp at ~23 volts at the driver.

Think of each cells as a water pipe. 6 lined up providing 1 gallon per minute is still only 1 gallon per minute at the end.
6 in parallel doing the same will be dumping 6 gallons per minute at the end.

Newb

Hyprmtr
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I got the LEDs today. Thanks to Matt (vesture_of_blood).

I got them lapped and bonded to the base. They are all wired up in series. I tried to keep the wires as short as possible. I will power them up maybe later tonight or tomorrow. I will start at a conservative 2.8A. :bigsmile:

Ken

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bdiddle wrote:
Hyprmtr wrote:

This is correct. A parallel set will give you more capacity (runtime) with same voltage amd current. A series setup will give you more voltage with shared current draw. Thats why when you add more batteries to a series the current drops. I am a noob I could be wrong. This is with my experience only.

Ken

If it is a driver that is a constant led current, more voltage will == less current.

However if the driver is pulling 6 amps at ~23 volts with 6 cells in series, each cell is providing 6 amps.

If each cell was only driving 1 amp, that would also mean 1 Amp at ~23 volts at the driver.

Think of each cells as a water pipe. 6 lined up providing 1 gallon per minute is still only 1 gallon per minute at the end.
6 in parallel doing the same will be dumping 6 gallons per minute at the end.

Thank you! I am by no means a electronic genius. This makes is very clear and simple.

Ken

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Wow guys…….

5520 lux at 5 meters.

138kcd

Un-f-n believeable.

Im completely shocked it did that well. The head gets hot real quick. After about 10 seconds I start to get scared. Lol. think I just built a 250.00 dollar 10 second flashlight. What a waste! :~

Ken

bdiddle
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Hyprmtr wrote:
Wow guys…….

Im completely shocked it did that well. The head gets hot real quick. After about 10 seconds I start to get scared. Lol. think I just built a 250.00 dollar 10 second flashlight. What a waste! :~

Ken

When is it too hot to hold?

Newb

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bdiddle wrote:
Hyprmtr wrote:
Wow guys…….

Im completely shocked it did that well. The head gets hot real quick. After about 10 seconds I start to get scared. Lol. think I just built a 250.00 dollar 10 second flashlight. What a waste! :~

Ken

When is it too hot to hold?

I havent got it too hot to hold yet. I want to do some temp and battery current tests before I do extended run times.

Ken

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Nice Ken. Love your mod. Need some night shots now. Wink

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Hyprmtr wrote:
I got the LEDs today. Thanks to Matt (vesture_of_blood).

I got them lapped and bonded to the base. They are all wired up in series. I tried to keep the wires as short as possible. I will power them up maybe later tonight or tomorrow. I will start at a conservative 2.8A. :bigsmile:

Ken

!http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz264/sswhuevos/20130921_205650_zpsd2...!

ERMAHGERD.

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

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jmpaul320 wrote:
Hyprmtr wrote:
I got the LEDs today. Thanks to Matt (vesture_of_blood).

I got them lapped and bonded to the base. They are all wired up in series. I tried to keep the wires as short as possible. I will power them up maybe later tonight or tomorrow. I will start at a conservative 2.8A. :bigsmile:

Ken

!http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz264/sswhuevos/20130921_205650_zpsd2...!

ERMAHGERD.

My thoughts Exactly!

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I'm thinking for a conservative 700 lumens per emitter, you would have 8,400 lumens. More realistic may be 800 lumens, so 9,600 lumens total, but you so need to run it for 30 secs to get a proper reading Smile.

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Haha! I had to google the ERMAHGERD to see what it ment!

I will try and get some beamshots this eve. I still want to do the temp and battery current tests too.

I would like to put a HBflex for different modes but the max input voltage is equal to only 5 lithiums. I have 6.

Ken

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Here are a few pics of it finished up. I did some calculations and it kinda conserns me. I calculated driver efficiency at only 76 percent. Here is how I did it, please correct me if I made a mistake.

The actual battery voltage was 24.18v. My tailcap current was 6.1A. My emitter current is 2.8xA.

I did 24.1×6.1 and got 147.01 that times .76 gave me 111.7 then I divide by vf which is 39.6v. It gave my emitter current that it is set at 2.8x.

Im probably doing it the hard way. Let me know if I did anything wrong.

Gtamazing
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I think your calculations are mathematically correct as I got the same numbers although I did it a little different.

xml2 vf is 3.4V at 2.8 A according to the tests done by match.

So: 3.4v*12*2.8A=114.24 Watts

You measured 24.18 volts and 6.1 amp at the tail

So 24.18*6.1=147.5W coming from the batteries.

Now 114.2/147.5=.774 or 77% Efficiency same as what you got.

Where I think your problem is with the 24.18 Volts. Is that measured at rest or under load? Under load the voltage would sag and be a lot lower, and when combined with the 6.1A under load the watts into the driver would actually be lower. Raising the efficiency numbers.

I could be wrong though. It’s happened once before.

Hyprmtr
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Gtamazing wrote:
I think your calculations are mathematically correct as I got the same numbers although I did it a little different. xml2 vf is 3.4V at 2.8 A according to the tests done by match.

So: 3.4v*12*2.8A=114.24 Watts

You measured 24.18 volts and 6.1 amp at the tail

So 24.18*6.1=147.5W coming from the batteries.

Now 114.2/147.5=.774 or 77% Efficiency same as what you got.

Where I think your problem is with the 24.18 Volts. Is that measured at rest or under load? Under load the voltage would sag and be a lot lower, and when combined with the 6.1A under load the watts into the driver would actually be lower. Raising the efficiency numbers.

I could be wrong though. It’s happened once before.

The batteries were at rest. Good to know you got the same results! Haha! I might have to turn down the current to the emitters if I want to beable to use this light reasonably. Or add more batteries… Big Smile

gords1001
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I like it J) and since you’ve not got it too hot to hold yet, I’d say your still well on the safeside.

The 7*t6 I tested a while back levelled off at 60ºc at the fin parallel with the emitter shelf, that was uncomfortable to touch, but gives you a ball park figure, I’ve just started to order the bits to mod that one into what I would consider a usefull configuration.

I’d say get some temp tests done with an accurate thermometer and keep an eye on cell temperatures considering your configuration, and if you wanted to run the h6flex, just assemble a low resistance dummy cell with a little copper tube and two end caps. it’d certainly make testing the driver simple as you wouldn’t be doing anything irreversible, just fitting the new driver.

Also as you say, it would give more usefull modes – low/high/omfg springs to mind :bigsmile: 8)

Gtamazing
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Hyprmtr wrote:
Gtamazing wrote:
I think your calculations are mathematically correct as I got the same numbers although I did it a little different. xml2 vf is 3.4V at 2.8 A according to the tests done by match.

So: 3.4v*12*2.8A=114.24 Watts

You measured 24.18 volts and 6.1 amp at the tail

So 24.18*6.1=147.5W coming from the batteries.

Now 114.2/147.5=.774 or 77% Efficiency same as what you got.

Where I think your problem is with the 24.18 Volts. Is that measured at rest or under load? Under load the voltage would sag and be a lot lower, and when combined with the 6.1A under load the watts into the driver would actually be lower. Raising the efficiency numbers.

I could be wrong though. It’s happened once before.

The batteries were at rest. Good to know you got the same results! Haha! I might have to turn down the current to the emitters if I want to beable to use this light reasonably. Or add more batteries… Big Smile

I don’t think you need to turn down the current just yet. I’d measure the voltage going into the driver with the light turned on. Then redo your calculations for efficiency I bet it will be much higher.

Hyprmtr
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Gtamazing wrote:
Hyprmtr wrote:
Gtamazing wrote:
I think your calculations are mathematically correct as I got the same numbers although I did it a little different. xml2 vf is 3.4V at 2.8 A according to the tests done by match.

So: 3.4v*12*2.8A=114.24 Watts

You measured 24.18 volts and 6.1 amp at the tail

So 24.18*6.1=147.5W coming from the batteries.

Now 114.2/147.5=.774 or 77% Efficiency same as what you got.

Where I think your problem is with the 24.18 Volts. Is that measured at rest or under load? Under load the voltage would sag and be a lot lower, and when combined with the 6.1A under load the watts into the driver would actually be lower. Raising the efficiency numbers.

I could be wrong though. It’s happened once before.

The batteries were at rest. Good to know you got the same results! Haha! I might have to turn down the current to the emitters if I want to beable to use this light reasonably. Or add more batteries… Big Smile

I don’t think you need to turn down the current just yet. I’d measure the voltage going into the driver with the light turned on. Then redo your calculations for efficiency I bet it will be much higher.

Okay will do.

Im using the Panasonic NCR18650B batteries. I would rather use a good protected battery that will do the 6-7A I need. Any suggestions which batteries to get? With a button top. I’m having to use neridium magnets to connect my batteries. Im sure that dont help with the added resistance.

Ken

gords1001
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Panasonic ncr18650pd cells are supposed to be pretty good but the 7a draw is a killer, most protection circuits wont go that high. enerpower cells are the only ones I’m aware of and they wont be cheap to ship to you

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gords1001 wrote:
Panasonic ncr18650pd cells are supposed to be pretty good but the 7a draw is a killer, most protection circuits wont go that high. enerpower cells are the only ones I’m aware of and they wont be cheap to ship to you

What about a li-mn 18650? Is there a protected li-mn?

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gords1001 wrote:
Panasonic ncr18650pd cells are supposed to be pretty good but the 7a draw is a killer, most protection circuits wont go that high. enerpower cells are the only ones I’m aware of and they wont be cheap to ship to you

I thought the PD’s were good for a 10a draw?
http://www.doingoutdoor.com/4-pcs-panasonic-ncr18650pd-2900mah-10a-batte...

gords1001
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I’ve not pushed mine that far to test, there are though, precious few 10a protection circuits, regardless of what the cells will do, I also dont think hkj was impressed at the performance at 10a.

li nm cells are supposedly safer as in dont get so excited, so dont tend to be protected in the first place, that maybe the way forwards, but li nm does not automatically equate to high draw, check hkj’s comparitor for whats what, the Samsung/sanyo (cant remember which) 20r’s have the lowest internal resistance, but similarly have a low capacity.

As we say in northern England, you dont get owt f’ nowt

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Panasonic PD cells are good for 10A draw.

PCB triggers at 11A: http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Keeppower%2018650%202900mAh%20...

PCB triggers at 9A: http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/EnerPower+%2018650%202900mAh%2...

Those are identical to the Keeppower ones:

http://intl-outdoor.com/2-pcs-panasonic-ncr18650pd-2900mah-protected-bat...

NCR18650B is not made for such high currents. (I said that in post #21 already..)

bdiddle
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Some Samsung 20R’s are likely your best bet. Great for high currents. Won’t get hot at 7 amps.

Available on Ebay.

Newb

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Thanks for all the great suggestions. How about the NCR8650A panasonics? I read somewhere they were good for 6.5A draw and they are protected. This driver is really suppose to stayat 6A according to George at Taskled. I am pushing it already. It would be nice to have a protected battery to cut off at 7A to protect my driver too. :bigsmile:

Ken

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