Looks like fun. What are you doing for cooling?
Thats exactly what I was concentrating on was the current in. I didn’t even think of the wattage input. I think the closer I am to voltage input vs voltage forward the driver will be less stressed. Also minimal heat up.
Ken
Prestone. Hahaha! :bigsmile: J/K.
As far as the emitters, the head of the light will have to do for now. It does have a lot of nice fins and is solid.
The driver is cooled by forged copper squares with a smaller aluminum square wedged on it too.
Ken
I will get some more pics up this eve.
Contact plate
Driver assembly in front contact plate in back
Switch plate notice where I made the cut.
Switch plate contact side
Switch plate held in with 3 screws
If it is a driver that is a constant led current, more voltage will == less current.
However if the driver is pulling 6 amps at ~23 volts with 6 cells in series, each cell is providing 6 amps.
If each cell was only driving 1 amp, that would also mean 1 Amp at ~23 volts at the driver.
Think of each cells as a water pipe. 6 lined up providing 1 gallon per minute is still only 1 gallon per minute at the end.
6 in parallel doing the same will be dumping 6 gallons per minute at the end.
I got the LEDs today. Thanks to Matt (vesture_of_blood).
I got them lapped and bonded to the base. They are all wired up in series. I tried to keep the wires as short as possible. I will power them up maybe later tonight or tomorrow. I will start at a conservative 2.8A. :bigsmile:
Ken
Thank you! I am by no means a electronic genius. This makes is very clear and simple.
Ken
Wow guys…….
5520 lux at 5 meters.
138kcd
Un-f-n believeable.
Im completely shocked it did that well. The head gets hot real quick. After about 10 seconds I start to get scared. Lol. think I just built a 250.00 dollar 10 second flashlight. What a waste! :~
Ken
When is it too hot to hold?
I havent got it too hot to hold yet. I want to do some temp and battery current tests before I do extended run times.
Ken
Nice Ken. Love your mod. Need some night shots now. 
ERMAHGERD.
My thoughts Exactly!
I'm thinking for a conservative 700 lumens per emitter, you would have 8,400 lumens. More realistic may be 800 lumens, so 9,600 lumens total, but you so need to run it for 30 secs to get a proper reading 
.
Haha! I had to google the ERMAHGERD to see what it ment!
I will try and get some beamshots this eve. I still want to do the temp and battery current tests too.
I would like to put a HBflex for different modes but the max input voltage is equal to only 5 lithiums. I have 6.
Ken
Here are a few pics of it finished up. I did some calculations and it kinda conserns me. I calculated driver efficiency at only 76 percent. Here is how I did it, please correct me if I made a mistake.
The actual battery voltage was 24.18v. My tailcap current was 6.1A. My emitter current is 2.8xA.
I did 24.1x6.1 and got 147.01 that times .76 gave me 111.7 then I divide by vf which is 39.6v. It gave my emitter current that it is set at 2.8x.
Im probably doing it the hard way. Let me know if I did anything wrong.
I think your calculations are mathematically correct as I got the same numbers although I did it a little different.
xml2 vf is 3.4V at 2.8 A according to the tests done by match.
So: 3.4v*12*2.8A=114.24 Watts
You measured 24.18 volts and 6.1 amp at the tail
So 24.18*6.1=147.5W coming from the batteries.
Now 114.2/147.5=.774 or 77% Efficiency same as what you got.
Where I think your problem is with the 24.18 Volts. Is that measured at rest or under load? Under load the voltage would sag and be a lot lower, and when combined with the 6.1A under load the watts into the driver would actually be lower. Raising the efficiency numbers.
I could be wrong though. It’s happened once before.
The batteries were at rest. Good to know you got the same results! Haha! I might have to turn down the current to the emitters if I want to beable to use this light reasonably. Or add more batteries… 
I like it J) and since you’ve not got it too hot to hold yet, I’d say your still well on the safeside.
The 7*t6 I tested a while back levelled off at 60ºc at the fin parallel with the emitter shelf, that was uncomfortable to touch, but gives you a ball park figure, I’ve just started to order the bits to mod that one into what I would consider a usefull configuration.
I’d say get some temp tests done with an accurate thermometer and keep an eye on cell temperatures considering your configuration, and if you wanted to run the h6flex, just assemble a low resistance dummy cell with a little copper tube and two end caps. it’d certainly make testing the driver simple as you wouldn’t be doing anything irreversible, just fitting the new driver.
Also as you say, it would give more usefull modes - low/high/omfg springs to mind :bigsmile: 8)