someone had to do it: dedomed Nichia219highCRI :-D

Without having one of those charts in 100cri daylight included to compare to, it appears to me that the dedomed nichia has the best cri of the whole bunch.

Here you go,

just made a picture (camera on daylight setting, no corrections on screen done this time) with a slightly overcast sky, that gives the best quality daylight imo (that is very subjective of course). But still the camera does not capture the true vivid colours of reality.

Thanks again djozz. Not sure what to make of that. Scrolling up and down, it now looks like the xml2 0D is closest to that. Do you think that is because you used a different setting (daylight) for the picture in Post 16? I apologize if I am asking dumb questions. I'm not very knowledgeable in this area (cri and tint). I do know that, despite it's relatively low output, I love the Nichia 219 B10 H1.

Sure...de-doming is easy ..

Lets see someone put the dome back on .:P

Yeah, thanks for the charts. Now, I know what to expect from my 5B1 :slight_smile: . The colors aren’t as vibrant as the nichia but it isn’t as yellowish in the greyscale.

thanks for all the charts djozz. To me it shows that the 4000-5000K emitters have most of the colour reproduction fidelity of the Nichia 219, but without the yellow tint that the <4000K Cree high CRI emitters have. Although the 219 appears to be the best of both worlds (CRI and tint), for higher outputs the 3-5 Cree tint bins seem to be good enough. I have a XP-G2 5B on a Sinkpad coming from LED-DNA (less than $4 after discount!), so it’ll be fun to compare that to the 3C XM-L lights I have.

Using side by side monitors (verifying no significant color shift between monitors), my wife and I both pick the 5B1 as the best overall match - dedomed nichia was 2nd, though each has strengths depending on color. As you say, seeing it in person may be different.

That chart appears a little too blue. Greyscale should be equal amounts of each color for each tile. From left to right it should be 0,0,0 for black, 255, 255, 255 for white and 128, 128, 128 in the middle. It’s best to use the actual chart for true colors, not a captured image.

This one should be accurate. If the greyscale still looks off, it’s your monitor.

Edit: New picture.
Edit: There’s a 18ish% reflectivity that I didn’t think about so black should not be 0, 0, 0. So, for comparison, all tiles should be brighter.

From x-rite: Since they exemplify the color of their counterparts and reflect light the same way in all parts of the visible spectrum, the squares will match the colors of representative sample natural objects under any illumination, and with any color reproduction process.

Nichia 219 original is the best - sorry! :wink:

You can clearly see it on the dark blue square (just below the black one in the top left corner) and by the purple square (the third square from the left in the third row from the top). The dedomed Nichia clearly lost a big amount of blue color by the shift to yellow/warmer tint. Comparison to your daylight shot proves this even more.

Thanks for the colour chart pictures!

I guess what I'm thinking is that the comparative 100 cri shot should not actually be one that is true to the real colors, but true to the same method the other shots were taken. So the shots are apples to apples. Meaning, the same camera settings etc. The colors will be off, but they will be off in the same direction as the flashlight pictures. Not asking you to do all that work. Just saying that is what I think would be the best comparison.

I got a feeling that when djozz said it’s not the same as looking at it in person that the issue maybe with colour balancing in his camera. But I’m no camera guy either.

You can get 100 CRI from both an incandescent bulb or the sun but that doesn’t mean objects can’t appear more blue or yellow. The way I understand it, higher CRI produces more visible colors so outside you get the full spectrum but it’s mostly blue because of our atmosphere. Inside under an incandescent lamp, you still have the full spectrum but less blue light is being produced. If you don’t have equal intensity throughout the spectrum for a comparison chart, the extra blue from the sky will make the yellowish charts look worse than they are and vice versa.

CRI comparison is only useful when using the same color temperature.

I am still learning this colour reproducing trick, and I am not doing really well..

My holy grail was to get on my and your monitor exactly the colours that I see in real life. I knew that was difficult, but I thought it to be possible to get close. That appears to be not true, far from it. Several reasons. The main reason is that the dynamic range of the real life colours can not be reproduced on a monitor, You miss out at least the vibrant reds, yellows, blues. For that reason those charts above do not show the best performing leds very well, on screen the charts look closer to each other than they really are, in real life differences are further apart, some differences are even absent on screen.

Another reason is that a (at least my) camera is not so good in capturing bright red and bright yellow, bright blue is much better. That said, in the digital colour chart that lightme provided (thanks for that, I find it very informative :-) ) the bright yellow and bright red tiles are also not as bright as in real life.

Perhaps the best way, to at least get the fairest idea of the differences between leds, is not to try to adjust the images on screen to match the real life colours (as I have tried above), but just show them without colour correction.

I just edited that post to indicate that. Every chart I find seems to be little different. Some have lighter shades but duller colors. Only you know what they’re supposed to look like.

Ok, you all decided to ignore my post, but nonetheless my reception of the colors isn’t that wrong - at least my colleagues back me for that. So i suspect you all to simply ignore the facts! :þ

:wink:

the one thing I have noticed in de-doming XM-L2’s is that it doesn’t matter which one you start with they all end up the same exact tint when de-domed as long as you don’t destroy the phosphor layer or whatever that’s called. So isn’t it basically the dome itself that is giving the tint and CRI or am I missing something?

I think the 5B1 shows a bigger difference between tints in the reds and blues. Even the yellows look close with the Nichia but it does have them beat with greens and tans. I think it’s just a little too warm. That 3C ain’t too shabby either. Both also have better greyscales indicating a more neutral white.

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/geoopt/aber2.html

If you look at the light emitted from the edge of a domed mule, you’d see that it’s yellow and with a reflector, it forms the yellow corona around the hotspot. I don’t dedome but I suspect it gets rid of that aberration and more yellow hits the reflector’s sweet spot.