MTN Electronics: LEDs - Batteries - Lights - Chargers - Hosts - Drivers - Components - 1-Stop-US Source

You’re talking government bureaucrats, nothing is supposed to make sense. They figured out long ago the best, most devious ways to waste taxpayer dollars.

The biggest problem with the government is the lack of transparency.

This means problems only surface when they are simply too big to hide, and smaller problems are left to fester. Further it leads to a complete lack of accountability.

You can rest assured that the money is not wasted. It is safely deposited in bank accounts. Whether it actually ever re-enters the economy (in so far as 99% of the population is concerned) is another question altogether.

Please stop, before this ends up in chemtrails/gold standard/ALEX JONES!!!!1!111 territory.

What’s the best way to ensure ground between the copper pill and ground ring on the driver? I’ve not had much luck soldering between the large copper pill and that narrow brass trace on the driver. Is there an easy way to do that to ensure a good solid ground? I’m actually thinking about getting a drill bit and tap to put a screw into that wide lip, use a piece of brass to clamp the driver down with it. Would that work?

Here’s a method I sometimes use on P60s.

I don’t have as much experience as many of you here, but I’ve had good luck using 60/40 vs. 63/37 solder and turning the temperature down a bit on my iron after adhering the initial solder to the star and outer ring. It seems like the 60/40 is easier to form bridges with; I’m assuming that it’s because of the increased plasticity range vs. 63/37 eutectic but you know what they say about assumptions! :stuck_out_tongue:

This was done with 60/40 solder (don’t mind the extra flux):

The joint may not be ideal (perhaps a bit cold) but it seems to be stuck on there well and it’s not a high current joint anyways.

I just realized that I misread your question when I posted earlier. I have also used a little bit of solder wick to fill that gap when needed, although usually if it’s just a hairline gap 60/40 and a little work usually get it done for me. In my very limited experience I’ve found that 63/37 is much harder to bridge gaps with.

Can you get the driver without low voltage warning/shut-off for use in non-Li-ion lights?

Ordered some 20Rs, gotta see how they compare to the 4.3v 28As...

All it takes is removing the resistor at R2 (marked '4701'). Since RMM offers an add/remove 7135s service I think that would be well within his capabilities. :)

Not at the moment, but I know that the program can be altered to remove this function. Is there much demand for this? I know that lifepo users might find this handy, I guess that it might also be useful to drain the last bit of juice out of NiMh and Alkaline batteries.

Just remove R2 to disable it, nothing in the FW needs to be changed. Without R2 to provide the drain to ground the MCU will always think the voltage is above the low voltage trigger point.

Thanks comfychair! Here I was thinking about reprogramming individual drivers when the solution was this simple! :slight_smile:

Thanks, that should be very doable. Even easier than a resistor mod to eliminate next mode memory.

Received my batteries today, thanks for the quick shipping.
Russ

Efest 10440, nice.
Would you have prices for them yet?

Easy…wrap them in foil. Device? Expandable tin-foil hat. :party:

:smiley: :smiley:

I can give you a ballpark figure: around $3.50 each (without any shipping costs added). I think that I am going to go to an actual shipping cost system in the near future, which will be more advantageous to those looking to buy just a few different cell types in the same order.

Received my package today, Thanks!

The 20R’s and drivers were packaged nicely, no problems what so ever. Really appreciate it and already have a driver stacked and installed. :wink:

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