Here is another shot of just the parallel setup (this is currently mounted in my mini-01, although it is producing a small donut hole. I am thinking about reflowing the emitters and trying to raise the two ends with excess solder, to put the emitters on slight angles to each other. Sorry for the digression, we’ll see EDIT: actually I increased the space between the emitters and the reflector and the hole is better. The beam is not perfect, but it is passable now.):
To describe the arrangement: I use a hot plate and solder paste to mount the emitters. The negatives are connected to the outside pads and then the wire pads are shorted together with another wire. The positives are connected to the center thermal pad and the positive driver wire is connected to the small protrusion on the pad.
Please put me down for 30 please. Not sure what I will do with them yet but I still have a few Xitanium drivers lying around in my box (outputs 700ma.) I just bought a house so I’m sure I’ll be able to scrap up some fixed lighting things.
I just tried to solder some of these…
I used regular solder, worked not so good first…then I pretined the LEDs too and that worked.
They look definitely not so neat like yours, they didn’t jump in place when hot…next time I will use standard reflowing procedure with solder paste…
On the single led I used the grinding and filled the gap with Fujik, but Fujik behaves a bit weird while soldering. The kapton variant works better.
The one with the small copper piece and blob of Fujik is a test, I first used just the wires as heatsink(50mm awg22 on each side) but decided to spend a copper scrap…
The light is interesting because colours look really good but the colour temperature is neutral never seen that before…
Yes, at least from my one attempt, I think using solder paste and kapton tape to insulate the middle pad on the board seems to work well. With that, the emitters did “move” into place once the solder paste went shiny, just like normal reflowing.
I was pleasantly surprised… I was worried that the kapton tape would cause a problem with the reflowing and moving because it does have some “height”, but it worked fine.
At least from my experience, Fujik melts when it gets hot. I had tried to use Fujik to hold a 7135 in place when I stacked it, but that was a disaster, because the Fujik went liquid, and the 7135 just started floating around :)… Same thing happened when I tried using AA instead.
Request: has anyone have a few (3or4) of these 119’s spare for me to test a ledboard for 119 leds? I will pay for them plus the costs of mailing them to me in a plain envelope.
Thanks!
(I can’t find Nichia 119’s anywhere for sale nowadays.)
djozz, if texaspyro doesn’t answer, I’d be happy to send you a few of those that I’ve got. Send me a pm if you don’t hear from him soon. Also, if anybody is interested, a quick search on eBay just now brought up this listing for Nichia NCSL119T H1 3000k LEDs
but where can one still get Nichia 119 LEDs (cool white)? On their website there are specs for NVSW119C, D and F (lat two labelled ‘new product’), but no distributor has any stock, and all they tell us is we have to order 3000 pc. from Japan, lead time 6 weeks.
We are supposed to solder 35 boards (9 LEDs each) next week, with only 240 LEDs on stock, and no time to convert the layout to the 219 (which is on stock everywhere). Now I am the one to blame for choosing the wrong LED back in 2014. Could I smell that everybody would go for the 3-pad footprint? Anybody have some 119 left over? Eng. samples welcome. 119A, B, C etc. is no problem, we can adjust the current.