Pretty decent price for assembly service.
For the S2 and S3’s you have “Just check the box and also add your choice of 17mm driver and 20mm LED to your shopping cart.”
That’s great news. I just placed an order for a custom P60 Drop-in.
Its going to have:
-XM-L2 T4 7A3 80+ CRI
QLITE REV.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver (5mA 2% - 25% - 100%)
-Orange Peel reflector
I am going to use the firefly mode as sort of locator glow and 2% as my night light.
can’t wait! 
some website issues...
when clicking on the top tab - "Flashlight Hosts" your flashlight hosts are hidden. Some people new to your site might not even see that you have light hosts.
You might consider moving your flashlight hosts under "Flashlights" tab.
and move empty P60 drop-ins under "Components".
Maybe on your Silicone Wire page add an Ampacity Chart like (wiki), since this is one of the more important specs when choosing AWG. ppl should know... what is the recommended max current for a certain wire size.
After-all the site is quickly becoming a modder's haven.
as always great work Richard. 
Site’s working fine over here MRT, hosts show as well as the empty drop-ins. Click hosts in the top row for the hosts, click the drop down menu for P-60 drop-ins to get the empty shells.
And for what it’s worth, the amperage capability of a wire is going to vary according to it’s type of copper, number of strands and various other factors. Wiki’s description is way on the safe side, in my humble opinion. Tenergy Silicone 22ga wire is easily capable of more than double that chart. Or at least, it’s giving me siginificantly higher numbers in my lights. 
And as a caution, there are just some things you don’t want to buy the budget versions of. I just received 22 ga silicone coated wire from a vendor I had not purchased it from previously. The silicone is so thick on the 22 ga that it’s bigger than Tenergy 20ga and won’t fit in my smaller lights at all. Sometimes it’s best to stick with the known name brand.
I think he’s trying to say it’s different from the other drop downs which when clicked go to a webpage with the two options as links. Confused me for a sec when the hosts didn’t show up under the host tab.
Regarding the new 20, 24, and 26 gauge silicone wire: it isn't as nice as the 18 and 22 gauge that I have. The strand count isn't as high and it is a bit thicker than it could be, but it is less expensive and you still get the benefit of the silicone sheathing. I will have to work on adding the OD to each of them.
I'm still trying to decide how I want to categorize the new additions. The current layout isn't permanent, don't worry too much 
Just wanted to thank everyone for all of the support, suggestions, and friendship over the past few months!
Merry Christmas and a happy new year to all of you!
-Richard
Merry Christmas Richard.
do you carry King Kong button top 26650 battery by any chance? 
Unfortunately, I don't currently. Got a soldering iron? You can add a solder bump to the cells, but I can't do it for you (although I wish I could!)
I do have soldering iron… the problem is every time I tried to put some solder on top unprotected batteries… it has some kind of pointy ( sharp) bumps and I’m afraid to heat up the battery too :~
It may sound counterproductive when working with something heat-sensitive like a battery, but the hotter your iron the better. Hotter means less time, and heat for a long time that spreads beyond the localized area where you want the solder is what kills batteries. A very hot iron will bond the solder to the button before heat can spread to the crimped seal between the button and the outer shell.
Put a drop of liquid flux on the button. Load up a big dollop of solder on the tip of the iron. Let the iron heat back up and recover the heat from melting the solder onto the tip, then touch the bottom of the solder dollop onto the button and count to 'one-' and pull the iron away. Don't let the tip contact the button, just the solder hanging off the bottom. Once you have at least some solder bonded you can let the battery cool off completely (it shouldn't even be warm if you do it right) and add another dollop if it didn't get enough the first time. Soldering to solder is much easier and quicker than soldering to steel.
1+ Hot & fast.
Perfect instructions Comfy.
Cleaning can make it easier, too. A light scrub with green Scotchbrite, then wipe down with alcohol. Funny how similar much of this is to TIG welding...
I was thinking about using your custom build service to get a multi-color flashlight together.
What do you think of the following combo:
Convoy C8 Host ( or maybe a Convoy S2 )
CREE Multi-Colored XM-L on 16mm MCPCB
Color and Dynamic White XM-L Driver - 17mm
Will it work?
Yes it will work! You definitely want an orange peel reflector to help smooth out the beam a bit, and I do think that the less focused reflectors are best for the color XM-L. This is because the four dies are all seen as slightly off-center by the reflector, if that makes sense. It will still work well with the larger C8 reflector but the projected image becomes less round. If you don't care about throw, the S3 may be even better since it barely focuses at all with that tiny reflector.
Added the Small Sun ZY-T08 along with a few "mod" options. I've built a few of these for myself and friends and they are one of my favorite hosts!
Re-stocked some of the springs and I have some 17mm and 20mm forward clicky switches that will be on the site soon.
Next up? Re-organizing some of the site (categories, etc.), new battery shipment should be in next week (more Prot. Pana. 3400s, unprotected Pana. 3400 button top, unprotected Pana. PF button top, etc.), also some DIY triple kits and pre-built triple lights.
Sorry if it seems like updates are slower than usual, I've been too busy having fun (and shipping orders) to spend as much time on the site as I usually do! Don't worry, I'm not getting burned out; in fact, I think I'm just getting started!
Any possibility of the XPG2 R5 1A swapped to a noctigon?
Wow. This is nice. for the mod you even added copper braid to the tailcap spring. RMM's Small Sun ZY-T08
I wonder if any of those forward clickys would work in it?
No go on the forward clicky (at least not without a lot of work). The stock switch in this light is very small, it took a lot of filing and grinding to get even the smaller Omten reverse clicky to work.
Unknown: What size MCPCB would you want it on?