My Fenix L2D did less than 2 months after I bought it while being under my pillow.
I Probably had a dream and bit my flashlight. It is the only explanation valid at CPF.
nice pics btw
looks like this will do the job - little pricey for the accessories at SF but seems to be higher quality host ...
and i can t believe they made such a nice host with the switch boot hanging out - looks as awkward as a Baboons ass IMO. should have made it red lol. seriously something protected would have been nice.
... does this have any better contact than say Sky*Ray S-R5 body in your experience or anyone else's experience? i am a bit worried about the MF 3 mode xml getting to hot and to warm for holding
thx for any thoughts on that
1st , wrap the pill with al-foil to improve heatsinking .. Nice firm fit into the host ..
2nd , all P60 hosts are about the same size [ physically speaking ]
So as long as the pill is wrapped and fitted to the host , they will heatsink about the same .
Most hosts are a little over size , to make sure they accept the pills . Which is why it has become standard practice to wrap the pills with Al-foil to make a tight fit that transfers heat .
What da... even under the pillow? Probably the plating process or some...."too hard can't stick". LOL! Hmm....seriously Type II is fine for me but high quality pls. Like L2 (good), Xeno E03 (well done), L2T (seriously crazy good!!!!)
I find wrapping it in alu foil, make it a bit thicker, and then screw it into the host as opposed to just pushing it in, coz when you screw it in the foil will be tucked nicely inside (push it in and it bunches up). It becomes so tight that it won't pop out. If one is anal you can apply a bit of thermal compound. But don't take it out once it's inside, you'd have to re-do it again. The reflector won't be too hot vs the host part holding the drop-in - decent heat transfer even for XM-L.
I rec'd the L2T and tried the KD U2 XM-L 5 mode drop-in in it and found that the switch apparently does not handle the higher current. Mode changes are erratic, you never know what you're going to get (like a box of chocolates? not so sweet). The drop-in works fine in my L2. I presume the UF and Manafont multimode drop-ins are working well in the L2T?
Hello to all, I'm rather new in town - nice neighbohood you have here.
from all of us
Could be the switch - I dont think its the current , mine handles XM-L just fine .
The forward clicky switch can sometimes have a slight contact issue when it clicks on , there is a momentary on and of - and depending on the drop in - can change modes on you as you click it on - most annoying with a 5 mode - you may wish to use a less sensitive drop in / driver .
Or swap out the switch to a normal revers clicky , unfortunately - thats the way it goes some times .
I'll leave this drop-in with the L2 and get a different one for the L2T and see how that goes.
If it's the same kind/dimension of switch in the tail, you can get a reverse for $2 from them. fwd switches do suck for mode light even when they work, since you have to get the right now before turning the light on.
What he said...
My solution is pretty close to Old4570's. I use a piece of an aluminum beverage can. I cut it with common scissors, 3/4" X 6", knock the sharp edges off and then I pull the strip across the sharp edge of a table. That causes the strip to curl into a circle. I make sure that the strip curls in a clockwise manner.
Wrap the strip around the emitter and try to gently screw it into the host (insert and remove twisting clockwise). It may need to be trimmed a time or 2, but you should strive for a snug fit.
Once you have that fitted, it's easy to remove and replace the drop-in.
It works well.
Good luck!
later,
Got my L2t today. Niiiiice!. Don't really like the forward clicky for mode changing but everything else is great!
I buy the aluminum duct tape at Lowes for wrapping drop-ins. Mind you this is the stuff that is real aluminum and $20 a roll not your average duct tape. But one roll of this stuff will last the average flashlight junkie several lifespans.
I received my SS bezel and clip yesterday. I wish my L2T would have been in the package!
I just found some alum tape used by Boeing on their planes around the house. I think the problem with using this is that if you tape it to the drop-in, it's only useful in one (type of) host since host inner diameters vary more than drop-in diameter. So for optimal solution instead of re-taping every change it's necessary to find some way of taping this to the inside of the tubes which can't be easy.
Who does not like the forward clicky (especially when using a multimode dropin) and do not want to use differnt looking siwtches can take the inner parts of the L2P switch http://www.internationaltradingcompany.net/product_detail.php?t=FA&s=18&id=125 or the standard L2 switch to make the L2T switch more usable, maybe you have to try with which distance disc used in the switches you get the best result, also you might try the clicky from a C2 or C8 as I put some L2 clickies in my mods.
Thanks for this parkerdude. I just received two of the L2Ts and followed your directions. I intentionally cut my strips too long and then trimmed the length a little at a time until I could twist the drop-in into the host. I even had to give it a good push the last quarter inch. The outcome is a nice snug fit.
For those attempting this, don't forget to pull the aluminum strip across the edge of a table to get a nice curled strip.
Thanks fnsooner,
I just bought a SF 3-mode XP-E drop-in to go in the L2T I bought last week.
What I didn't mention was the use of 24oz. cans, to make sure that the strip is long enough. The trouble is, the only cans that I can find around here that large have beer in them. I might have to buy more drop-ins 8-).
Good Luck!
Hey guys... I would like to buy the l2t as a spare light with UV Mode Drop In Option...
Anyone knows if Xtar 18700 2600mAh run without Problems in it? Or are they to long?
18700 work fine but I don't have that drop in