Thanks Comfy, definitely some good work there! Now someone is gonna have to hold my hand through learning solder wick braid so I can clean up a board like that, man that is nice!
Nice, thanks. 
P.S. What’s with the other side of the driver, we strip all AMC’s? Maybe Nanjg 101 would be better solution then (with a bit more squeezing)!
Yes, all 7135s are stripped. You can see that in the pic where he says, "hey where'd that little capacitor go?". He moved it to the opposite side of the board.
Ah yes, you are right, where are my eyes…
P.S. how about combining this mod with zener mod for 2s-3s MT-G2?
Wow, comfy that is a superb job. Very neat soldering.
On the original board the capacitor is attached to the PWM trace and ground. This is the same trace the leg of the FET attaches to. When you moved the cap to the inside you went to the power lead and ground, does that have the same result? Is the capacitor doing the same thing when hooked to these different places?
never mind, I see now that I had the wrong via. Upside down and backwards. :~
Newp! Find the MCU pin marked 'Vcc', follow it down and look for the through-hole right under the fork in the road...
...that goes over to the battery side, to the capacitor. Other end of the cap goes to ground.
The new spot I picked for it goes between the LED+ pad and ground.
Sirius, you can use it with 2S MT-G2. Don't try 3S MT-G2 (this isn't a buck driver).
Also, you need to remember that this will go near direct drive, so it isn't a good setup for those lights that you need or want to limit the current on due to heat or battery life concerns. This is a good solution for when you can or want to run at direct drive current levels. This is a good "hot rod" light driver.
Well, 40% (PWM=100) will limit a triple XPG2 to around 3A, sounds practical to me. :bigsmile:
Awesome guide Comfychair!!!
I’ll have to give this a shot.
Comfy and Richard love to kick ass and chew bubble gum, and they are all out of bubble gum. Thanks for the detailed write-up comfy!
Richard, I don't really have a need for this right now, but I assume this will be your next offering?
Of course. I have just been way too busy. Next week I have a week "off" and will be catching up on everything and posting all of the new "stuff". 
Thanks CC and others. Very nice work.
The place the cap used to be located was on the VCC trace and now it’s on the +Vin trace. It does the same thing, either way? So what, exactly, does the cap do anyway?
It keeps the MCU happy
Master Slave? Possible as well with this? and you still need the zener mod for MT-G2 correct?
To control the DD effect, could you balance it out a little by just not having the high mode, like maybe 200 or 225 instead of 255 for the high mode?
Justin, yes you still need the zener mod to keep the MCU happy. That's all the zener mod effects anyways--the voltage the MCU is seeing.
I don't think you will need to master/slave this setup, the MOSFET is good to 30A+ no problem and is very low resistance. After running an MT-G2 at 10A-11A it didn't get hot at all sitting in the open air. Heat is not an issue with this.
You could definitely run a lower PWM value, which is what Comfy hinted to earlier. You could also run higher-resistance cells. (Like a a Pana B vs. a 20R or PF).
I just take off the components and flux the board, heat each pad, (or several pads at a time), with the soldering tip and wipe with a rag, as I pull the tip away. Cleans off fine. Just an alternative…
Wipe with a dry rag? Or a damp paper towel? I like that clean look, makes it much easier starting over with new components.
Thanks Justin! 
I usually use a paper towel, sometimes damp, sometimes dry, depending on my laziness level. A rag works a little better and dry works fine. You just have to wipe quickly. I place the rag over the tip and wipe in one motion rapidly. Excess flux is cleaned off with alcohol.