Which firmware? Fast PWM or phase correct? (if it's one of the STAR versions and you didn't change it on purpose, it's using fast PWM, hence why it doesn't squeal like a stuck pig). ;)
SWEET!
I am thinking the smaller 14500 and 10440’s will need a “choke” aka the 190 or 74.5% of maximum output…
So you always have a PWM control but it flows MUCH more power than any stock driver they can shoe horn in 10mm!
Awesome job!
oh and no laughing bro…we (especially me) are still stumbling around 
Oh and throw us up some shots of the Texas Poker light man 
I just noticed that this board is not listed here, so here the 7 XM-L board is.
Whoah…nice!
Is this on a copper sink pad or regular PCB material?
wow…all that XM-L goodness and head on 16mm…wow!
With a FET build I would be afraid to touch this thing off w/o having some sort of big ole honkerin’ chunk of copper/aluminum under it otherwise it WOULD become a torch fwoooosh
Still crazy cool…
Is there an optic on the planet for this thing? (ooh…maybe under an aspheric on a SK98 zoomie) 
Regular PCB material, it has a bunch of vias underneath the XM-L to help with the heat problem. And it is a 20mm board. No optics available for this, I just run it as a mule in a P60 build. With a peltier plate for cooling and a desktop power supply it peaked at 26 amps. I think I may have been maxing out my power supplies though, so eventually I plan on giving it another shot.
Wonder what it would take to actually get this built on sinkpad?
Ah saw the 16mm 3x in the .pdf and didn’t look deeper…yup…20mm…still nice!
Going off of the cost of previous sinkpad group buys, it would be prohibitively expensive as I would have to order 1000+ of them.
This is the first one I managed to get installed in a light. 1.2uH inductor, no electrolytic cap. Levels of 2,6,18,54,130,255, and I shortened the long press time from 32 to 15.
I didn’t see it up on OSHPark…so I upped it (unless you want to put it there Scaru)
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/hZGiHT7T
Nice…so the solder “feet” make good contact with battery tube?
NICE!
What is it running 4x XM-L and at what currents?
Anyone ever tried to dissolve the fiberglass PCB board under these above PCB “stars” and figure out a way to bond the overlays/traces to a hunk of metal?
It's in the one using the 6x parts. I have no idea what the current is, I don't have a meter that goes that high. On one 20R I get a reading of around 8.5A, but it gets significantly brighter when I bypass the meter by shorting the two leads together, so who knows what it's really doing.
I use an old SRK PCB to set the limiter on the drill press, then cut the solder down so it comes out the same thickness.
Thanks WH, I am actually going to order one of these, not to build scaru's monster but to make a moderately run efficient mule as a destination for the many last gen. xml's I have in the spare leds box.
What kind of light pattern does one expect from a “mule” [which is a reflector-less head correct]
Just a big ol’ wad of light or is there any rhyme or reason to it?
The SRK driver doesn't need the resistors, though I have no idea why. They work beautifully without them just like all the earlier test versions do/did. So that leaves the only alteration being the switch pad redesign, which really isn't necessary. The way I settled on doing it is to strip about double the length of insulation off the positive switch wire and lay it across both the main pad and the pad on the trace, in effect using the wire itself as the jumper.
What you said, it is like switching on a light bulb in the room.
Hey David, good to see ya! Been a while, hope all is well…
Yep WarHawk, just a big ol wall of light with no artifacts or nothin. The MT-G2 in my chopped AA minimag is pretty cool, doesn’t throw of course but man it’ll light up a room and looking for something in a confined space it’s really cool, you don’t have to point it. 
WarHawk, here’s the build thread on the Texas Poker, done by Photon Fanatic almost a year ago now. I’ve been wearing it around my neck on a Ti curb chain the entire year. Started out with a mini fluPIC driver at around 650mA, switched it to the MattAus PICcolo at 800mA then found one that would do 1A. Now it’s running at a limited 1.42A for the Nichia 219B that’s in it. Really liking how it functions, 3 1/2 lumens in low is nice, and it comes on so neat and smooth. Perfect!
In the last year, since I had this Ti light made, I’ve managed to build some pretty neat lights. I’ve got a few favorites, with the M8 up at the top of the list. But this little TP is special. Whole different category of course, so to finally be getting it’s output up in modern times, well, it’s nice.
With a big handful of BLF members directly influencing the making of this light and it’s components…Comfy, Rufusbduck, MattAus, PhotonFanatic, RMM, JonnyC, there’s been a lot of help from a lot of really great folks here and I Greatly Appreciate It!
or three…
This drivers pcb is thinner by almost half than the prototype PICcolo driver. So it sits inside the copper pill which worked out really nice, allowing me to solder the ground ring to the wall of the pill pretty easily. I used Rufusbducks sandwiching idea to pot the top side of the board with Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive and placed a disc of copper for the battery positive contact right on top of the small FET, pressing the AATA to a thin layer between them. With the power lead coming through the board, I simply stripped the insulation, twisted the wire, wrapped it around the copper disc and soldered it in place. Then sanded most of the solder off so the battery has as direct contact to the copper as possible. The AATA was white and shiny, til the flux made it ugly. Oh well. Not like it’s seen other than here.
As you can see, in spite of Comfy’s efforts to make the Convoy S6 ultra small, the Texas Poker is tiny beside it. Sure do like seeing those .5mm threads all over the place! Especially in copper…. ahhhh :bigsmile:
Any interest in checking the button top on your efest10440 for a PTC or CID? You can see it in these 18650 pictures. 
LOL ;) I didn't try to make the S6 ultra small, I just tried to get rid of the wasted space in the existing design. It's practically a baseball bat compared to others...
