No, you can’t flash the stock MCU with Star FW and it has a different pinout so you can’t just swap it with an attiny.
You could disconnect the stock µC and connect a star FW flashed 105c to the Driver to control it.
Werner has done it and there are some pics in the M6 resistor mod thread.
btw.: I like the driver concept of the M6 as well. Actually I think it’s way better than driving multiple LEDs in parallel like most of the FET drivers do.
I will make a 105c based design with with 7136 instead of 7135, as soon as I have some time…
Sounds like a nice modded light. I don't care for the M6. It's way too forward heavy and feels awkward in my hand, as it constantly wants to go head down and you have to hold it more forward than the SRK. I still like the SRK best, but RMM does some nice mods.
In my opinion, it depends on what wows you. The BTU is much larger which in of itself is impressive. The BTU Shocker has better down-range power, but for anything 100 feet or less, the M6/SRK is pretty awesome. Of course, a "Super" Shocker (modded BTU Shocker) is the best of both worlds, as long as you can stomach the price and size.
There are shots with SRK, btu, and modded btu (in one of the big beam comparison shoots). What you are looking for should be similar, but the modded M6 will be far brighter than the SRK.
None specifically what you are looking for though afaik.
I just got a SupFire M6 and an L1 from China and have two modded M6s on order from Richard, a Option 1 and a cool white Option 2. IMO you can feel the better thermal transfer in the M6 than the SRK as the head warms up much quicker in the M6. To me that shows better thermal transfer away from the emitters as outputs appear to be similar with the M6 just a bit greater than the SRK as best I can judge.
If you think that the M6 is front heavy then stay away from the SupFire L1. With it’s 5 emitter larger diameter head and the handle location it has poor balance compared to my BS Terminator. Also the grip part of the handle is too short for large hands. The battery compartments are interchangeable between the M6 and L1. The L1 battery compartment on the M6 improves grip due to the larger OD of the tail cap. Tail caps are interchangeable too so easy to get a custom look.
Looking forward to receiving the lights from Richard as I want the better user interface as well as the increased outputs.
As STOCK lights I rate the Black Shadow Terminator #1 with the SupFire M6 #2 and the L1 #3. The SRK is a distant #4.
The unwashed generally are more impressed by throwers. If your goal is to impress those people, you should go with Richards BTU Shocker with FET driver and dedomed emitters. You'll probably get more use out of the M6 though. Better yet, get both and have yourself a super flooder and super thrower.
The unwashed masses buy those plastic $3 lights from Walmart and stuff alkaline batteries in them. Any light over 50 lumens impresses them, especially when they have a few drinks beforehand.
I think there's no stock light that impresses any more. It's all about modded lights and Richard mods some good ones. So do other members here and even if a person doesn't want to mod, there's many members here who can mod a light for them.
But I still like the original SRK or the fandyfire clone. Both have the shelf built in the head and the 3 toroid driver, which is an easy mod to do. I have been talking to Supfire, but I gave up on them, because they just don't want to work with pricing or shipping, even for group buys. Their lights are good, but not that good, to warrant the price difference over comparative models from other Mfgs.
Went camping a few weeks back... the lights I had on me were all over 5000 lumens (except the throwers), but to be honest I don't think I saw anything that was over even 1k. For under $100 I'll second the modded supfire m6.
Unfortunately for many budget lights Chinese Lumens seem to be at least as overstated as no name and JunkFire Chinese 18650 and 14500 battery capacities. There are flashlights on Amazon I have seen that claim 18000 Lumens from 15 LEDs in a head that could no more dissipate the heat of that claimed output unless it was water cooled. Also probably need 30 Amp rated discharge batteries to get there. When my two M6 lights arrive from Richard I have a Fenix TK75, the 2900 Lumens version, and a RC40 with 3500 Lumens out to compare them against and I have ordered recommended batteries for them from Richard. Many people seem to forget that even the best 18650 high output flashlight can be sharply limited in both output and run time if fed with garbage batteries.
Things are gradually improving as far as many Lumens claims are concerned I believe. The Stanley LEDLIS 10 watt spotlight used to claim 2000 Lumens and now claims about 750 ANSI OTF lumens IIRC. Even some of the Chinese sellers have toned down their claims after reading actual test results of their lights performed by members here and on CPF where they were basically called liars. :exmark: IMO we need more of that.
I understand and know exactly what you're saying. Should have a been more clear :p
I was at a camping event with about 1400 people, lots of campsites, a lot of walking from campfire to campfire. While I can't claim to be able to tell how bright a light is by itself, I do play with my own lights a lot (everything from .01 to ~7500 lumens) and can say with reasonable (not perfect) accuracy how bright a light is, if I have one of my own to compare against. Most people were using regular store junk lights that were below even 100 lumens. A few were using cheaper xml sipiks, and other ****fire lights. Really no one was using anything that would compare to even a 2000 lumen SRK.
The situations with batteries is even worse than with lumens, so one of the things I did do was point people to rmm, and is for better panasonic batteries.
I'll see what I can rummage up! I didn't even think that I was close to 1000 yet!