DX will sell you switches. If it works fine with the tailcap removed and the negative end of the battery connected to the body with a paperclip you can go:
A) the ultra cheap way and throw away the tailcap then get some metal foil. A square slightly larger than the battery tube will do. Wrap that over the end of the light. Stick it down with some duct tape. Press on the middle of the duct tape to make it switch on. Any sticky tape will do - I just like duct tape. Which we call gaffer tape in the UK.
or
B) Less cheap but still not expensive. Keep the tailcap and do what it takes to dissect it - there may be a screw ring under the plastic cover. If not, go back to A). If there is, unscrew it. Take out the switch assembly - measure it and get a new one of the same size from DX. These ones should be around the right size.
or
C) Free but fiddly - once you have dissected out the switch take it apart and fiddle with it till it works better. Then reassemble
or
D) Most expensive way of all - buy a spray can of switch cleaner and spray it into the switch (Preferably after removing any rubber boot) then operate the switch a lot. Shake out the excess then see if it works any better. If not, then go to A.
I've not had to gut any. I am about to tear apart a Maglite switch to see what is wrong with it - though those are supposed to be pretty good mechanisms good for 10A.
From what you've said, I imagine you don't live in a town so are unlikely to have a Radio Shack or the equivalent nearby. Most such places will have any number of switches for mere pennies. Me - I'd go for the duct tape method.
First thought. Wow, it's light. Second thought, "It's nearly weightless". Brighter than I expected with a cheap alkaline in it.
Doesn't look like the head is removable short of sawing it off. Having had a good look with a 30x magnifier, the head would need a saw to remove it. On both of them the LED is better centred than expected.
The squeaking of the threads got to me, but a small drop of thin oil and some graphite (IOW I scribbled on the threads with a pencil) followed by a wipe with a tissue soon sorted that out.
I am skeptical of water resistance, the O ring at the tail end doesn't seem to engage with the tailcap. Will test this when I get home.
Hey Don, I'm glad you received these. Not bad for the price wouldn't you say? I'd be interested to see what you think about the beam quality. In my opinion, the two samples that I own have the nicest, smoothest looking beam of all my flashlights. Reasonably bright too, although 3W is obviously a stretch.
I have two of the ones in the second link...and for the price the kids love them. Not as bright as a cree, im suspecting the led used is a Nichia. The light has good runtime and seems to run fine on 3.2 volt cells. And just wanted to say Welcome to the site CPF..........
Hey there cpf, welcome to the site, enjoy your stay here!
I had two samples of the CJ 1-Watt Pocket LED Flashlight. They are excellent for the price. The threads on the tailcap were nice and smooth, the clicky switch worked well, and the runtime was excellent, more than 24 hours on a good alkaline AA. I carried one with me every day for a year or two, and it finally started to get flickery and I eventually threw it out. It was a great investment of $5.00. I wouldn't buy more just because I personally don't like the rubber grip. But if you like the looks of the CJ-1 you'll probably be very happy with it, and you can't go wrong for the price.
Glad to see you here. I have what I believe to be the same as the second one. It's not what I'd call rubber, it is some sort of hard polymer - as is rubber but not as hard.
Mine lives on my work keys. Still has the AAA I got with it and it is still working just fine. I'd not reckon on serious water resistance, the plastic window at the front has got itself pushed in by some of the stuff I routinely carry in my pockets and I've not yet found a non-destructive way to get into the head and glue the lens back in place. Still looking though.
Other than that, it is a robust and useful little light that seems to have ample runtime for most purposes. If it stays dark longer than that, then even in winter here, we are in trouble.