I shortened the front lip of the white plastic holder a bit (not too much, there needs to be an air gap between the TIR & lens, otherwise it screws up the beam) and the rear of the bezel only needs to be shaved down by .018-.020". The only remaining snag is that the o-ring no longer sticks up higher than the TIR holder, so doesn't seal against the lens. I need to add a small spacer under the o-ring to move it forward a bit so it touches again.
Adding the butterfly spacer (.035" thick) did tighten up the center spot, it looks identical to the one in the S3 now.
Well a 20DD wouldn't fit, since the switch holder board would be 20mm also and sits on a lip inside the head. You'd have to use a 17DD, that itself is no big deal, but it would be a very tight squeeze. 17DD height is right at 5mm, and only 5.5mm space available. Probably not even enough room for the LED wires.
Someone showed a set of vertical pushbutton switches on another thread…modifying the 20DD would probably be doable, adding those 2mm tabbies are doable
Just need the drawing .lbr of the switch and see how that goes
Button is at 6 oclock 180 degrees out from 12oclock 0-degrees
I think it would be doable
Is the nub 2mm diameter/thick
These TIR’s snap smooth onto the XM-L package w/o spacer 15 degree TIR 30 degree TIR for a little wider flood
on the 2-602C XP-E builds I did I used the adapter, had to remove a little of the lip around the top to get them to fit…but they dropped right in, I like the beam profile on the 15mm, makes a semi decent thrower but still floody enough to be useful, I think the 30 degree would open the beam profile nicely
Oh its much too easy using those Alps SKSC switches. I rammed one of these on my board. Its huge by comparison but by adding the layout for that switch people aren’t forced to make a mouser or digikey order just for a switch.
So I somehow managed to create a 70N02 Roche driver awhile ago. Even though I haven’t really found myself interested in straight DD yet and I don’t have an Roche F6.
Still interested in one Comfychair?
Joke? There should be no footprint issues, this is a 20mm 2-sided driver. 70N02 fits on a 17mm driver, surely it must fit on a 20mm driver even with a small microswitch added? The IRLM2502 is has vastly inferior RDS (on). It’s a “baby” FET.
You just put the MCU and most support items on the bottom and the FET on top.
The 20DD is just a 17DD, with a bigger OD. Plenty of room for the switch without changing anything or moving parts to the battery side.
Warhawk, that switch is far too big, it needs to be one of the 'half height' rectangular switches, specifically the one I linked to or one of the same package size/format. The driver compartment on the F6 is extremely tight and the switch fits into a little machined pocket in the side wall. It has to be the same outline as the one on the original driver.
The stock driver isn't that bad really, it just has some annoying quirks. Could be better (can't everything be better?).
It only has 3 modes but they are nicely spaced, the low is sufficiently low, but a long-press-for-on/off UI really should have memory, otherwise what's the point? It always turns on in high mode whether that's what you want or not. The long press duration is reasonable, unlike the DQG 26650 (three seconds?? you gotta be kidding me! It's easier to turn that one off by unscrewing the battery tube, truly annoying.). And the output is pretty good too - it doesn't lag far behind a Convoy S3 using a 17DD & the same 10* TIR. It's driven hard enough it'll get HOT if you run it a while. The low voltage warning LED is interesting, I guess, but is it practical to look down at the light every so often to see if the LED's flashing red at you? There are better ways to handle it, in the firmware.
The biggest improvement by far is adding the TIR, the driver would just be a bonus.