Review: MaxToch Mission M12

LED Flashlights – General Info 26650 Flashlights
2

06/18/2014

I was able to unscrew the driver retaining ring by expanding the guide holes a little, then it came out pretty easy with a good needlenose:

Notice the brass center piece, in place of a usual spring. It's completely loose. I'm thinking this could/should be soldered to the driver:

The backside is completely clean. The brass button is held to the driver by force of the battery:

I removed the driver and MCPCB. There's lots of paste, no screws, and it's nice copper:

Almost 26 mm in diameter:

Driver, almost 28 mm:

Driver - main components is a MCU, FET, and inductor. Does this make it a buck? Will it work on 2 cells? Maybe?

There's the little guy - that R056. Think it need some piggyback companion?

Real copper, but is it a direct path? Well, was hoping for an overspill pad for the center thermal pad, but it didn't exist. The LED would have to be pulled to find out:

We were wondering if the heat sinking is good enough for high amps. Here's the weight of the bare head. It is a uni-body pill, and the pill top is part of the body and it measured ~1.8 mm thick:

Here's a HD2010 head, so, the M12 is actually a little heaver, maybe?

Well you sort of have to include the weight of the HD2010 pill, which is substantial. Maybe drop a couple of grams for the star and driver:

This is a concern. This is the pill top. It's actually black anodized, but the light is being reflected off of it in this pic:

The center is an indent, leftover from the machining process. The XinTD X3 has the same indent. The other ring around the center depression appears to be a slight bump or indent -- this is more concerning. The thermal grease they used is very thin, and pure white. There was a lot of it present, so I'm thinking there had to be a lot of gaps for it to hide in. I'm not liking this - I would normally attempt to sand this out, but since you would have to work down the housing, it's not easy. There is no other threaded joint at the pill top, so access is not so easy.

Battery Update - testing the capacity on the new V2 Opus charger, the 26700 tested at 5344 mAh (good news!), and a KK ICR 4000 button top tested at 4514 mAh. I haven't done many capacity tests on the Opus, so I'm not confident right now in it's accuracy, but couple others seemed to be in the ballpark.

3

Very thorough review.
Makes me want to buy one now. :slight_smile:

4

Almost the same performance as the Olight SR90! A fraction of the size and weight of the SR90 for a fraction of the cost!! The quality is as good as the Olight too. Thanks again Tom for another great review.

5

fantastic review there

6

Thank you very much for this fantastic review.

The 2nd production should be available within one week. As soon as it is ready, I’ll leave a message here.

7

never had HD2010 style before maybe this M12 is my first :slight_smile:

8

Thanks Tom… excellent review… it’s a nice light but ouch it’s definitely out of budget light category, hmm I missed the group buy on this light… how much was it? :~
knowing you… you probably will push this light into 1700+ lumens or maybe even more :smiley:

9

I like the design of this light, and it looks like quality product :slight_smile:

10

Aw-right Tom, nice review.
The SupFire L6 looks like it has a really nice tint and a fat spot.

11

Fine review, Tom. I have been an admirer of the M12 from the get-go.

12

Thanks for the review! I love it, it might just become my first 26650 thrower (waiting for the group buy :-) ). I actually like that it just has a tail switch, I'm not into fancy UI's and it makes modding with other drivers nice and easy.

13

Thanks Tom E. My first question was going to be is the reflector the same as the HD2010. Thanks for the quick responce. I'd be interested in what the beams like comparing the two together at a distance if its on your agenda.

14

Thank you for a well done review Tom!

Looking forward to see driver, more info about the mcpcb, and discharge result.

Seems like a pretty nice light. Although a tad expensive for a light with fairly classic "mediocre" 5- mode driver. Personally Im not a fan of the forward switch.

If maxtoch or someone is doing a Group-buy. Please make it a proper GB with a properly lowered price. Not just the equivalent of a 10% discount code.

15

Yes - the reflector is also what I was interested in, compared to a HD2010 - figured many would be interested in these two head to head. The head outer dimension is basically the same between the two, but the bezel on the M12 is thinner, and the reflector design more efficient with a thinner top lip, so that's where the 4.85 mm gain for the I.D. comes in. I wasn't pleased how the white wall shots came out - doesn't show exactly what I was seeing in tint or brightness spread around the center beam.

I have to do some exploration to find an outdoor venue for shots. My backyard is quite small - not much open land locally.

I'll update the OP with camera settings. Also, I got the discharge test running now while I'm at work - should take at least 10 hours... I'm doing the 26700 and a KK ICR 4000 button top.

I'll be adding updates once I crack open access to the driver and MCPCB as well. I pretty much hate the stock 5 modes too -- think many of us feel that way... Amanda -- are you reading? Please take note!! The tactical switch is a tough call - this may suite their targeted market well, but the SOS should go, and debatable about the strobe - some have a use for it, others don't, just wish it could be hidden better, though being the last mode with the modes restting to high when OFF isn't too bad because you never have to see it if you toggle through hi-med-lo-OFF. Lack of mode memory is an advantage in this case.

I would also like to see more aggressive heat sink fins, maybe working higher up the head. There's not enough in mass and surface area. I know it's a trade-off between function and style.

16

I voted for this one in the group buy and spoke with Amanda about getting one of the first ones, but communications broke down somewhere along the way and I’ve missed out. I must’ve confused her with my SN51 purchase.

I’ll get back on that, as this looks like a very nice light. My shelves are filling up, might have to sell off something to make room, but… :wink:

Appreciate the work here, with ticks in all the right boxes it’s pretty much a no brainer.

17

If it sell for $40 I might take a bite… group buy for $40? :bigsmile:

18

Thanks for the review!

19

Why Tom for such a nice review, now I want to buy now. Hope ya got time for another mod haha

20

Thanx All! I'd love to even see $52 for a group buy - no bag, $12 option for the 26700 battery. Krono is the group buy man of choice for this - I have no interest in doing one -- too much work! Smile

Figure $30 is the regular discounted price on a HD2010, LED/star and AR lens are worth maybe another $12. There's another couple bucks for better quality components, and of course, you can't buy a 25 mm copper star (still to confirm), and so many untangibles, like the centering ring sucks on a HD2010 - they have been loose and so difficult to center the LED, you have to loosen the pill for a tight fit to the reflector, or use the o-ring on the pill (not a good idea), the anodizing finish, water resistance improvements with the high qual threads and o-rings, style, bigger reflector (more throw), better regulation from the driver so you can use quality cells and not worry about smoking the LED or having major heat sag droppage (classic problem with stock HD2010's), no chinese lottery on the driver. Also you don't have to worry about the crappy packaging from TMART, the nicks, finger prints on the lens or reflector, hit/miss quality of the reflector, fogged out lens.... I'm sure I can continue on this, ugh...

Even after addressing most of the HD2010 issues with mods, you are still left with a budget looking light less capable (smaller reflector, can't run 26700 cells) where every component basically has been replaced. I've got around $75 into a couple of HD2010 with copper pills, more closer to $100 considering 2-3 stages of mods over time. Don't get me wrong - I still like the HD2010 (keeps me busy), just the M12 is a different level.

21

Great review and it sure is a nice light. I’m usually into the ZY-T08 for a light this size but that one is really nice.

Have you seen this driver yet from Lightmalls?

http://www.lightmalls.com/4-2v-single-lithium-5a-3-mode-led-driver-boar-cree-xm-l-t6-u2-sst50-mce-ss-p7-5-pack

4.2V Single Lithium 5A 3-Mode LED Driver Boar Cree XM-L T6 U2/SST50/MCE/SS-P7 (5-Pack)

Size: 17MM*10MMWorking
Voltage: 2.7~4.5V (factory protection voltage: single lithium in 2.7V,Constant current output when the voltage is higher than the LED VF value)
Temperature protection :55-60 degrees (Change to the low mode and flash one every 5seconds when protection)
Constant current: 5A
Low voltage protection: single lithium in 2.7V (the mode will change to low and flash two every 5 seconds when protecttion)
Modes: 3 Mode (100%High - 30%Mid - 5%Low) Power cut off less than 2 secondschange the modes,more than 3 seconds,keep at the same mode.

This might be a nice option for this light. I bought a give pack a while back but they were not exactly right. More like 5% 80% 100%. I have another 5 pack on the way and they promised me that they programmed it right this time. The output was impressive for sure. I stuck one in a HD2010 and a few other lights. Supposed to get the next batch very soon, I’ll let you know how they work when they come in if you are interested.

It works good in a bigger light, but didn’t cut it in the C10’s that I built. It would go into protection almost right away.