I still don’t understand your fascination with using a smaller FET.
Helios says that he’s already created one:
The demand must not be too high for this since AFAIK nobody has offered to test his.
EDIT:
Well there you go, I guess there is a little demand 
I'm definitely planning to, I just need to re-order a bunch of other stuff at the same time and have to wait a little while ($$$).
I’m keeping an eye on the F6 for when I get some other projects knocked out. Your recent info on the BG F6 isn’t exactly encouraging though. It’ll be a little bit before I buy any, I hope the FT continues to sell the nicer ones.
Even the LED in the 'good' one is nicer... advertised as a U2, dunno about that but it's a nice tint. Looks very close to the XPG2 2B. The T6 (claimed) in the BG version is bottom-of-the-barrel nasty green tinted junk. And it's on a cheap AL board. The two lights are comparable in fit/finish/machining though.
Yep, Free to a good home but its Untested, No warranty, could use an attitude adjustment.
Really, its a good little driver. I’d like to see that it has a good start. Should have asked Rufusbduck if he would post an adoption flier in the OP. Uploaded to oshpark, just haven’t hit the share button.
Cereal_killer has been doing some really good testing and building of drivers…he might give it a go
If you made it, it has to be a good driver, is it ATtiny based?
I want to see it first (yeah, so I have 'commitment issues', lol), I'm sure I'll have questions. Like, what's required in the FW to make the voltage warning indicator work? I have no clue about that stuff, if it can't be fixed with a soldering iron and a hammer I'm lost. J)
[quote=comfychair]
The Banggood F6 has totally different internals than the FT F6!
There are two different F6’s on Bangood, one listed as “upgrade” with upgraded switch, which one are you comparing?
Link in post #43.
And the 'switch' they 'upgraded' isn't the switch, it's just the stainless button & bezel, the switch is inside and soldered to the driver PCB.
F6 from Fasttech measures 108.5mm overall, Banggood F6 is 111.1mm (edit: actual measurements from the two lights, not just quoting what's listed in the descriptions).
Never in my life have I found something than can’t be “fixed” with a big enough hammer…
hahaha ASUS Repair Kit 
Yup, thats fixed real good now!
Looks tasty! :)
OOOOH SNAP!
It's also got two battery level indicators with separate limiting resistors, run by MCU pins 3 & 5... though I have no clue how to alter the code to make them work. :shy:
I think the switch pads are set up to work with either the SMD or thru-hole switches though I haven't checked yet. I have both switch types on hand already.
Helios would have to ’splain
Well I understand the PCB layout, the indicator cathodes are both tied to ground, and the anodes come from the resistors. So outputting voltage on pin3/5 will turn the LEDs on. It can use the original Nanjg voltage divider for sensing, and the rest is all in the code for how fancy you want it to be. With the two LEDs both shining at the little faux-fiber optic pickup thing in the light you could even get a third color by turning on both pins at the same time.
I have one assembled and working after more than a little frustration. First try, I relocated the capacitor to between the B+ spring pad and the tab on the frame of the switch... it didn't work. A short press would give the shortest, dimmest blink from the LED, it'd do that once every time the switch was pressed. A long press would give 100%, but then any press of the button of any length would turn it off. I went poking around with the DVOM and found the switch frame isn't ground, and there's really no practical place to put the cap where it can connect to B+ and ground anywhere on the board without blocking something else. So, I tried the cap-in-parallel-with-D1 version... still didn't work. More poking, checked the cap with the meter, found I somehow picked a 1uF cap out of the little parts organizer bin instead of a 10uF. D'OH! OK, so swapped in the correct cap and... guess what? Still didn't work!
I eventually got it running, but only by putting the cap back in the original spot (after the diode) and using the stupid 130 ohm gate resistor. It's stable like that, which I guess is better than not working at all. Blech. :sick: