Review: Trustfire XP-E F23

Yes, I have many, but a image is more than 1000 words:

Also you can read the comments in the video, it had happened to more persons. Not only the clip broke, but the flashlight body broken in 2 parts!!!!!!!

Even in CPF there are some guys with same problem.

I am searching the link

Ok, that's a Maratac AAA which I don't have any experience with. I have the iTP A3 EOS which looks similar but are from different manufacturers. When you mentioned A3 I just assumed you were talking about the iTP. I'm pretty sure someone here has a Maratac AAA and will be able to help you.

On other sites, they say that Maratac as better quality than itp.

Also I tought that the maratac AAA and the itp A3 eos is manufactured by the same manufacturer...

However I imagine that if this happens to the maratac, It will hapen too to the itp A3 or.................who knows?

In CPF people who have done comparisons between them, have noted that even the circuitry is exactly the same

I have my iTP A3 EOS on my 2nd set of keys so they are in and out of my pocket, in and out of my trucks ignition, dropped many times and it just keeps on working. I use aaa eneloops in it and it seems to last forever on low but you always have medium and high if you need it. I think that video was of a bad Maratec or maybe part of a bad batch but both are very good aaa lights and you can't go wrong with either one IMO. Smile

You've probably already seen this but here it is just in caes you missed it.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=240639

Anybody knows if there are "falsifications" or "non-original" A3`s or maratac`s???

Because they are the cheapest itp flashlights, and I imagine, manufactured in China, so is possible that can exist non-original ones

Any popular flashlight is probably going to have fake ones out there but it all depends on where you buy it. I bought mine from GoingGear.com and I'm pretty sure mine is the real thing but then again everything is made in China nowadays so you just never know.

nono, the one you bought from goinggear was manufactured in China (i think)

I dont know if the ones sold in china web sites are original or fakes.......... specially the cheapo A3 ones

I got this light in the mail today from Tmart, and it got here in about 3 working days (shipped from Brooklyn, NY).

I have to say, I was impressed with the fit and finish on the body, it was hard to tell that it is actually a 3-part light since the tailcap fits so closely to the body that you cannot see the seam unless you roll it in a good light source and look for it. The threads were pretty dry, and the clicky switch takes a LOT of presure to activate it, but other that, it looks great and works fine.

Because the body is so smooth and polished, it really makes you realize how hard the switch is to depress because the light slips through your hands when you press the clicky. It's almost a 2-handed light.

With 10440, it is VERY bright for such a small light, it lights up my whole backyard. Not bad for 12 bucks.

there is a small washer in the tail that actuallly makes the clicky recess into the light further and so like I said before the clicky is in my opinion kind of squigily ..meaning there is too much gitdrubber to be mashed before you get to the actual clicky it's self .. open it up and take out the small plastic washer and toss it the the parts box and ......BINGO the clicky now works like it's supposed to .. no two hands nessesary ..

I wish all fixes were that easy .another sucessful Boaz mini mod for the inept.:p

I just bought a Yezl S7 that look exactly like this one, I pay 21$ plus shipping...

I bought this light for my wife and she carried it in her purse for a few days. When she went to use it one day, it was dead. I messed around with it and got it to flash for a bit when pressing the clicky but it won’t stay on. I know the battery and LeD are good because it comes on for a split second.
Any ideas what to look for? I am bummed that this light cost me $14 and only gave about 2 mins of work before it started acting up.

I bought this light for my daughter and she loves it. She dropped it and now I have the same issues. Checked the switch and led, and determined it was a driver failure. I ordered this to replace it:

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/ak-007-0-8-1-5v-3-mode-circuit-board-for-flashlights-11-9mm-50526

I am not worried about the lack of 4.2V support, as she is not old enough for lithiums. I will update if the driver swap fixes it.

When I got mine I found that mine was intermittent as well. I cleaned the threads and it was a little more reliable. I found that turning the threads would get it to light and it had to be something with the connection. It was my first stainless steel torch so I chalked it up to the SS threading. Since then it has been solid and reliable. Maybe some residual polishing compound on the threads that had to wear off to provide solid electrical connection.

12/10/2009 - thats the day i got this baby and i still marvel at the craftsmanship of this flashlight. This has to be the most solid AAA flashlight that i have ever owned. Only gripes that i have with this is the useless strobe mode and it is a bit on the heavy side(understandable because of the solid stainless steel frame). I have had no problems dropping the light multiple times on asphalt and concrete during these years - maybe i got lucky? Back in the day this was my best EDC light and it still is very nice :)

Welcome to BLF, Eisenhorn

Holy thread resurrection, Batman!

Does anyone use the F23 as a real keychain light? Not much room to put a metal ring on the end so that you can attach it to your key ring, and not interfere with the switch operation. I'm also curious how the shiny SS finish holds up to keychain use.

Rise dead thread !!!

Out of the few flashlights I have owned, everything has died (Including my MagLite 3d LED)

This Trustfire XP-E F23 is my ONLY flashlight that is still alive after so long lol

Seeing as I now have a SRK and a 3x Nichia / solarforce L2P on the way, I’ll probably end up attaching this on my keychain lol

Screwing this thread back on…

I’m sure by now you’ve realized that some dousing in contact cleaner, with some Q-tip rubbing can often be needed for ALL these budget lights! :slight_smile: But in case others don’t know…

That being said, it seems my new 2016 batch of good-but-cheapies is much higher quality from the get-go than my 2008 barrage. In 2008, all but ONE had quirks (an Ultrafire A6 SS) — in 2016, all but one have WORKED fine when received… Exactly the opposite! Found a metal sliver in that one and now it works! I’ve since done the things found on a sticky in CPF and done them on all my quirky ones from ~2008, and now they *all *work flawlessly as well.

I’ve just recently found and have become infatuated with this light, and although it will replace my old AA EDC pocket light, I think it’s still too heavy for a keychain… For my keychain I found a multi-mode Brinyte PD03A that is super light and quite bright on Eneloops… That way it wont do long-term vibration damage to the key area of the steering column. :slight_smile: