Wow great news!
Subscribed 
Can you take a photo of the black component?
HKJ has already provided us with a clear picture. Please take a look on his site at this image. Pin #6, as I mentioned. (count from the divot at the bottom counterclockwise back around). I have just checked mine again, and while I still cannot get my continuity test to show anything, it seems to be a 100k resistor. I am very confident that the resistor and capacitor are for offtime memory.
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I have flashed a 150hz STAR firmware w/ ontime memory and no LVP onto an ATiny13A and successfully operated the driver.
Clearly the PWM is no good. I will increase the frequency and see what happens - later.
In another thread (post #58) I posted an ‘adapter’ for placing an ATtiny13A where a PIC12F683 goes. The link in post #58 is an update to the seriously dumb mistake I made in the one from post #47/#50. It is still untested, but I have a few on the way. As I mention over there, it requires a little filing to get working. The PCB is 1.6mm thick, so it won’t really increase the size of the driver much and should really clean up the install.
Would the BLF Tiny10 give you a solid platform to piggyback the ATtiny and supporting hardware and be able to shoe horn it in the pill?
comfychair and others seem to be getting VERY good at that lately
Excellent investigatory work there…awesome!
Excellent work! Watching with a keen eye :)
Have you checked the “regulated voltage” input with different voltages?
If it is not absolutely the same on all voltages especially on low voltage it would be better to replace just the resistors for voltage monitoring…
A small driver board is ideal to do this kind of work, the tiny10 has everything needed. If the voltage gets hooked up directly with a wire the diode might not be necessary.
I checked a wide range of voltages. It seemed rock solid to me.
That’s nice.
B.T.W
so without an MCU, this driver can work with a momentary switch connected between pin 3 to vcc and pin8 to vcc ?
I mean while pressed: light is on, otherwise: light is off. 
Crap. I’ve mislabeled them! And after I got on ImA4Wheelr about the same thing. What you are thinking is fine. I’ll come back and fix everything.
:~ sorry to hear that
I thought about another thing.
I believe that the components are not meant to work in higher currents.
What if we change the Inductor and the Diode to something more quality for example IHLP2525CZER4R7M01 and SBRT15U50SP5-13
Do you think it will help?
I haven’t looked into replacing the components on the LD29. I haven’t measured but I think the LD29 can produce 4A at least without dying. I do not know the efficiency at high drive currents. As you know I’ve been more interested in assembling a driver from parts than modding other drivers. Even though that hasn’t been working out so well 
What I would do is strap Pin 5 (PWM) directly to VCC. Then I’d switch Pin 3 (Enable). [unless that didn’t work. Then i’d do it the other way around 
] Remember that this gives you no low voltage protection or anything else that the MCU would normally provide.
I’ve corrected the OP. Anyone who sees errors left over please let me know and I’ll fix’m.
Thanks for the info.
Anyway, I ordered some parts, i’ll post the results when I get it.
Thanks for the info, i’ll try connecting a momentary switch as soon as I get the LD-29 
just for fun.
A tiny10 still takes up a lot of space and requires many air-wires in order to splice it into the stock driver (Vcc, GND, PWM, BAT+). An LD29 driver already wastes a fair amount of space since it must be installed with a contact board. See below for a picture of the first generation adapter boards. They do not work, I became confused when laying them out. I have already ordered replacements. These boards should just reflow in place of the stock PIC and lift the ATtiny up by that much. The whole assembly should remain shorter than the height of the inductor.
The new generation boards on OSH should work okay?
v06 should work. I’ll test one when I get them.
EDIT: Here is an Eagle screenshot showing both sides of the board. The ATtiny is on the red (top) layer, the bottom layer sits on the driver board. Pin 1 is marked with an empty white circle.
Is that real?
I paid 0.40$ for 3pcs incl. shipping.
Maybe they had a mistake on their website…
That’s what that little contact board was for in your OSHPark projects bin…awesome!
Will it need to be jumpered over to the old IC pads or are you going for a one for one dropin approach?
And no…teeny tiny boards are crazy cheap…this is why it’s only like $1.70 for 3x 15mm SK68 boards I designed