but the ceiling bounce was 280 at startup, and settled at 262 within a few minutes.
I don`t have any lights that I can compare it with, I have the Supbeam and SRK from dx, but both are taken apart.. still waiting on parts.
I wrote down the SRK from DX ceiling bounce lux, and it was 309 at startup. That`s all I have.No idea how many lumens.
My DGQ 26650 NW had a ceiling bounce of 170 on Turbo. (which should be around 1200lumens or so)
SWM D40A and F40A are in the 120-130 ballpark. (both around 900-950 lumens)
So I don`t think it would be a bad guess if I`d say the Ultrafire M51 is around 1900 lumens. (just looking at Djozz graph here)
Not bad light for a Ultrafire but a little bit pricey. For the money (actually - for less money) I’d get Supbeam/Acebeam K40M which is better in basically every way.
This looks like a different category to the s2200. The s2200 has a massive head on it so these are a different thing IMO. Easier …or maybe not… to carry?
Very nice review with lots of pictures, thank you very much.
But to be honest if I want to spend $120 on a MT-G2 light I will spend it elsewhere (i.e. K40M). I’ve never seen this M51 in real so I can’t say it is not good, but simply have a feeling that it should be priced below $80.
Thanks.
I actually don`t want to have too many pictures in my reviews.
Some have soo many pictures, that I don`t even read the text.. it just looks like a catalogue.. buy it, be happy kind of thing.
So I add some pics in the end, and I link to many pictures, or have mouse overs and such..
I don`t need to see 5 pictures from different angels of the bezel.
5 pictures of the lanyard
5 pictures of the holster
etc..
but that`s just my taste ;)
feel free to comment about reviews in general in this thread :D https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/20189
I don’t know about the others but I personally prefer a lot of pictures. And I see you did have a lot of explanations, dimension measurements and runtime graph too, it’s full with info.
By the way, did you try to shine this light in lower modes on a spinning fan and could you notice PWM patterns?
Ok, I got some info about calculating the A from the LD29 mod thread
So I will just enter my own values, and see if it makes any sense.
Quoted from the mentioned thread.
The ouput amps to the LED is 3A, so therefor the sensing voltage is V = I x R = 3 x 0.06 = 0.18V. The sensing voltage will stay constant, so if you want 5A output to the LED, your sensing resistor should be: R = V/I = 0.18/5 = 0.036Ω. So your best bet would be to Remove the 4 SMD resitors, and put a R036???? resistor. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to get the exact resistor in small quantities. Thus we stack resistors to get to the desired overall resistance.
I can`t follow the following numbers yet..I tried, and think its correct... but please let me know if I do something wrong.
- 2 x 0.1Ω in parallel = 0.05Ω, put that in parallel to the original 0.06Ω = 0.0273Ω = 6.5A?? correct? (0.18/0.273) - 3 x 0.1Ω in parallel = 0.03333Ω, put that in parallel to the original 0.06Ω = 0.0349Ω = 5.15A?? (0.18/0.0349) - 4 x 0.1Ω in parallel = 0.02500Ω, put that in parallel to the original 0.06Ω = 0.0484Ω = 3.71A?? (0.18/0.0484)
Forget all the math, there's no way to know if it's correct from one light to another until after you change the resistors and see how much difference it makes. Just stack one resistor at a time, something reasonable that won't whack it too hard in one go, like 1/2 ohm (R500). The higher your added resistors are, the less increase each one will give. Adding a really low one like a R020 could be too much, using a bunch of higher value ones gives you a lot more control and won't suddenly do something bad on you.
Bookmark this page, it'll decode anything: http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/smdcalc.php