sk68 clone: longitudinal section

Wicked cool!

With the cutaway, I can now show people the method I use by filling the hole behind the emitter w/ epoxy to facilitate pulling heat to the sides (I guess the potting method would actually be better)

Great pics man!!!

(this needs to be stickied)

and of course MORE lights need to be sectionalized :slight_smile:

nice one!

Cool!

A picture is worth a thousand words eh… :slight_smile:

Looks like those plastic aspheric lenses are made of two pieces bonded together, interesting.

no, that would be way to much honour for the humble sk68, what you see is the rim on the other side of the lens, it is one solid piece.

Ah cool, had me wondering. Thanks for sharing.

Cool review! Thank you ;-)

too funny! Hope Jane enjoyed it.

Are you having a 50% of sale on this?

Great job, thanks for sharing!

Yes I am, but please consider that the output will also be a bit less than stock.

now that truly belongs in a flashaholic museum :slight_smile:

This made my day. I couldn’t help but LOL when I saw the bare piece. Thanks! Fresh, never-done-before review for an old school light. :slight_smile:

Simply the best sk68 review ever! :beer: :beer:

+1

Very nicely done, thanks!

Yeah great job!

The main design problem, aside from the hollow pill, appears to be the thin section between the bottom of the pill and the finned part of the body. This may keep it from becoming too hot to hold, but it reduces the cooling of the led. A way for a clone maker to avoid that may be to make the light slightly longer and overlap the pill with the thick finned section. Or one could make the head thinner and the front of the body thicker. In practice, the finned section heats up about as much as the head does, so it may not be a serious problem. The overall thickness and the well shaped fins imply importance of thermal management, so these problems threaten its right to dominate it class.
An aftermarket fix for the hollow pill is to use a thicker star.
(The one I am working on with an XM-L2 on a Noctigon draws two amps. from an IRM, so I want to braid the tail spring/switch.)

Brilliant

It shows just how little metal to metal contact there is with a screwthread :weary:

Cheers David

I use thermal compound on all my lights with screw in pills and on most of the really high power ones at the head:body connection. Dont forget that on higher quality lights the threads are going to be more precision cut leading to a better amount of surface contact.

I’m surprised the lens cut so cleanly! I’m also surprised to see copper inside the clicky.